AW25 buying guide: Functional apparel and accessories in an age of extremes
Rains, Anrealage, and Hyke. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight From the weather to politics: we live in an age of extremes. This is reflected in fashion, where functional apparel is becoming increasingly important. The gorpcore trend, once popular with outdoor athletes, hikers, and campers (“gorp” is an acronym for “good old raisins and peanuts”, a common trail mix snack), continues to evolve for AW25. People want to be protected not only in nature but also in everyday life. For AW25, we see a growing focus on functional apparel interwoven into traditional fashion segments such as formal (for the office) and urban (for leisure). Emporio Armani FW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Apparel for unpredictable weather What happens in the world is reflected in fashion. More volatile weather has a major influence on brand collections, says trend forecaster Edwin van den Hoek. Brands like Stone Island, Arc'teryx, C.P. Company, and Rains utilise coatings such as DWR (Durable Water Repellent), a spray or wash treatment applied to the exterior of garments to enhance water resistance. Rains FW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Womenswear brand Hyke responds to increasingly unpredictable weather by designing collections with removable and adjustable components, making the clothing suitable for various weather conditions. Hyke, a Japanese womenswear brand adapting to unpredictable weather Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Apparel brands and manufacturers are also responding to consumer demand for protection against the sun's UV radiation. Brands like Lululemon, Decathlon, Uniqlo, and French luxury brand Coperni are marketing clothing with UV-protective coatings. Lightweight fabrics Coperni is known for its apparel and accessories that utilise innovative fabrics. These fabrics offer protection against UV radiation and have properties such as antibacterial and anti-wrinkle benefits. Coperni FW25.Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Lightweight fabrics that provide warmth are also gaining traction for AW25, shares Van den Hoek. Namely: wool (blends), fleece, thermal materials, and lightweight nylons. These can be found in the FW25 collection of the Italian brand Msgm. Msgm FW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight British brand J.l-a.l showcased a menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week for AW25 that demonstrates the maturation of the gorpcore trend: a refined blend of lightweight functional apparel for both the office and outdoors. J.l-a.l FW25.Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Fashion in an information society The impact of digital technology on our society also influences fashion, emphasises Van den Hoek. In smart cities, such as London and Amsterdam, where technology is integrated into daily life, the trend of “dressing for anonymity,” or dressing for the need for privacy, is growing. This phenomenon, mentioned by Van den Hoek in a previous trend forecast, is a direct response to the information society [a society where information, via technology such as the internet and computers, plays a crucial role, ed.]. London brands like Vollebak are responding to this development with innovative garments like the “Shielding Suit.” This jacket not only offers protection against extreme weather conditions but also has a technical outer layer with silver particles that blocks Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and satellite signals. Additionally, the outer layer blocks tracking and can prevent detection by infrared cameras. The brand Ohmni is also responding. Their “data protection dump bag” is a bag that, thanks to a built-in Faraday cage compartment, blocks all Wi-Fi and data connections. This allows users to protect themselves against digital threats such as tracking and hacking. Furthermore, the Japanese brand Anrealage showcases how technology and fashion go hand in hand in its AW25 collection in Paris. The “Screen” collection utilises LED screens in the clothing, highlighting the possibilities of technology in fashion. Anrealage FW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Comical forms of self-expression According to Van den Hoek, politics are also becoming more extreme. “In America, new, strict gender rules apply: you are either male or female – anything in between is not accepted,” Van den Hoek gives as an example. Fashion brands such as Balenciaga, Avavav, and Duran Lantink are responding to this social development by offering new, often comical, expressions of self-expression. Avavav, Balenciaga, Duran Lantink FW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Fashion as necessity The AW25 collections reflect technological advancements and the changing social and climatic conditions. Fashion thus becomes more than just a statement but also a means of survival in an increasingly extreme world. Louis Vuitton FW25 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and
From the weather to politics: we live in an age of extremes. This is reflected in fashion, where functional apparel is becoming increasingly important.
The gorpcore trend, once popular with outdoor athletes, hikers, and campers (“gorp” is an acronym for “good old raisins and peanuts”, a common trail mix snack), continues to evolve for AW25. People want to be protected not only in nature but also in everyday life.
For AW25, we see a growing focus on functional apparel interwoven into traditional fashion segments such as formal (for the office) and urban (for leisure).
Apparel for unpredictable weather
What happens in the world is reflected in fashion. More volatile weather has a major influence on brand collections, says trend forecaster Edwin van den Hoek. Brands like Stone Island, Arc'teryx, C.P. Company, and Rains utilise coatings such as DWR (Durable Water Repellent), a spray or wash treatment applied to the exterior of garments to enhance water resistance.
Womenswear brand Hyke responds to increasingly unpredictable weather by designing collections with removable and adjustable components, making the clothing suitable for various weather conditions.
Apparel brands and manufacturers are also responding to consumer demand for protection against the sun's UV radiation. Brands like Lululemon, Decathlon, Uniqlo, and French luxury brand Coperni are marketing clothing with UV-protective coatings.
Lightweight fabrics
Coperni is known for its apparel and accessories that utilise innovative fabrics. These fabrics offer protection against UV radiation and have properties such as antibacterial and anti-wrinkle benefits.
Lightweight fabrics that provide warmth are also gaining traction for AW25, shares Van den Hoek. Namely: wool (blends), fleece, thermal materials, and lightweight nylons. These can be found in the FW25 collection of the Italian brand Msgm.
British brand J.l-a.l showcased a menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week for AW25 that demonstrates the maturation of the gorpcore trend: a refined blend of lightweight functional apparel for both the office and outdoors.
Fashion in an information society
The impact of digital technology on our society also influences fashion, emphasises Van den Hoek. In smart cities, such as London and Amsterdam, where technology is integrated into daily life, the trend of “dressing for anonymity,” or dressing for the need for privacy, is growing. This phenomenon, mentioned by Van den Hoek in a previous trend forecast, is a direct response to the information society [a society where information, via technology such as the internet and computers, plays a crucial role, ed.].
London brands like Vollebak are responding to this development with innovative garments like the “Shielding Suit.” This jacket not only offers protection against extreme weather conditions but also has a technical outer layer with silver particles that blocks Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and satellite signals. Additionally, the outer layer blocks tracking and can prevent detection by infrared cameras.
The brand Ohmni is also responding. Their “data protection dump bag” is a bag that, thanks to a built-in Faraday cage compartment, blocks all Wi-Fi and data connections. This allows users to protect themselves against digital threats such as tracking and hacking.
Furthermore, the Japanese brand Anrealage showcases how technology and fashion go hand in hand in its AW25 collection in Paris. The “Screen” collection utilises LED screens in the clothing, highlighting the possibilities of technology in fashion.
Comical forms of self-expression
According to Van den Hoek, politics are also becoming more extreme. “In America, new, strict gender rules apply: you are either male or female – anything in between is not accepted,” Van den Hoek gives as an example. Fashion brands such as Balenciaga, Avavav, and Duran Lantink are responding to this social development by offering new, often comical, expressions of self-expression.
Fashion as necessity
The AW25 collections reflect technological advancements and the changing social and climatic conditions. Fashion thus becomes more than just a statement but also a means of survival in an increasingly extreme world.
FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com
This article was translated to English using an AI tool.
