By Aleks Zecevic
Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Austria, Germany, France (Alsace, Jura/Savoie, Vin de France), Armenia, Czech Republic, Moldova, Serbia, Slovakia and Turkey.

Alsace, sitting in the far northeast of France is a place that looks at you sideways. It’s caught in this odd historical limbo, constantly shifting between French and German control over the centuries. 

Like the life of a tragic Shakespearean character, Alsace is a place that’s tasted war, peace and everything in between. But it’s not just political history that makes this place unique—it’s the epic scenery, gastronomy and wines that punch far above their weight.

This is a land where French elegance and German precision meet over a bottle of something sharp, mineral-driven and just a little bit rebellious. It’s also a place that rewards those willing to go beyond the more famous regions and winemakers within them. 

There’s an exotic edge, a subtle complexity, to Alsace that’s distinct from the swagger of Bordeaux or Burgundy. Winemakers here focus on precision and terroir that sings, not shouts.

The region’s wines are mostly bottled under three big appellations: Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru, and Crémant d’Alsace (their sparkling wine). 

The region is split into two départements: Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin. As a rule of thumb, Haut-Rhin is where you’ll find most of the top-tier wines, home to over two-thirds of Alsace’s Grand Cru vineyards, and for a long time, these sites were seen as the pinnacle. 

But here’s the thing: south-facing slopes, once prized for their ability to soak up the sun in a cooler climate, are now sometimes too warm. Winemakers are scouting out higher, windier sites, north-facing slopes and any spot that can hold moisture better.

Weather Report

Alsace stretches between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine River, a narrow strip 185 kilometers (115 miles) long and only 40 kilometers (25 miles) wide. Most vineyards lie on the lower slopes of the Vosges, with east- and southeast-facing exposures. 

The Vosges act like a natural umbrella, blocking out the wet Atlantic weather and keeping things drier than you’d expect for a region this far north. 

This results in some of the slowest, most patient ripening you’ll find anywhere—wines that take their damn time to develop that razor-sharp balance of fruit, acid and minerality.

The soils here are a chaotic patchwork, thanks to glaciers that once smashed through the region like a drunken wrecking ball. 

You’ve got granite, sandstone, limestone, volcanic rock and marl all jumbled together. If Burgundy is a well-organized library of terroir, Alsace is a record store—messy, unpredictable, but filled with absolute gems if you know where to look.

The past few vintages in Alsace have been like a three-season arc of a prestige drama—each year with its own tension, surprises and a couple of hard knocks.

2023 marked the eighth “excellent” vintage in nine years. A wet, cold March delayed budburst past the frost window. June brought heat, which most grapes handled well—except Riesling, which suffered coulure (translation: “shot berries”), slashing yields. A warm, dry summer led to a later harvest, producing crisp, precise wines with lower alcohol than 2022. The Pinot Noirs are dark, concentrated and packed with fruit.

2022 was a rollercoaster. The season started hopeful, but May and June’s heat waves caused problems (Riesling took a hit again). July and August were brutally hot—some vineyards just stopped ripening. Late August rain saved the day, and the wines, especially dry whites, turned out vibrant and full of energy. Pinot Noir quietly stole the show.

The 2021 vintage nearly broke winemakers. Frost in April, mildew attacks all summer, and a crop that was 20% smaller than usual. But after all that suffering, September and October brought enough sun to salvage a late harvest. It might be my personal favorite: lean, racy, tense wines, full of nerve and character, especially for Riesling.

There’s an exotic edge, a subtle complexity, to Alsace that’s distinct from the swagger of Bordeaux or Burgundy. Winemakers here focus on precision and terroir that sings, not shouts.
aleks zecevic, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large

Trend Report

Alsace isn’t content to sit still. The wines are getting drier, sharper and more precise than ever. 

There’s also a quiet revolution happening—more winemakers going biodynamic, experimenting with skin contact, playing around with amphora aging. The likes of Laurent Bannwarth, Patrick Meyer, Jean-Pierre Rietsch, Yannick Meckert and Pierre Frick are pushing the edges of what Alsace can be, and the results are thrilling.

And then there’s the Pinot Noir. Once a sideshow to the whites, it’s now stepping up, producing reds that are fresh, structured and absolutely worth paying attention to. Catherine Riss, Marcel Deiss, Albert Mann, Pierre Frick,Valentin Zusslin and Christian Binner, all produce examples that are worth looking for.

Futurecast

The wine scene here is changing faster than a Burgundy Grand Cru’s price tag. Expect winemakers to experiment even more. Think more skin-contact fermentation (especially with Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer), carbonic maceration, foregoing sulfur and whatever they can think of to show off their terroir. 

And while the region’s famous for its white wines, don’t be surprised if Pinot Noir starts making more noise. If you can get your hands on a bottle of Alsace red, do it now, because in a few years, it’ll be a lot harder to find.

Alsace is also quietly leading the charge in natural wine. We’re seeing more and more winemakers embracing the “no additives” philosophy, giving us wines that don’t just taste good; they taste real. 

So, if you want to drink something that feels alive, something that tells a story of place and time with every sip—Alsace is waiting. Just don’t expect it to follow the script.

Below you’ll find a list of 13 bottles that demonstrate the range of Alsatian wine, from classic expressions to modern low-intervention options and food-friendly selections.

The Classics

These are the Alsatian classics—pedigreed, collectible and timeless. Think rock-solid Rieslings, statuesque Pinot Gris and aromatic Gewürztraminers from producers who have been at the top of their game for decades. These wines age gracefully, gaining on charisma, so whether you open one now or cellar it for years, you’re in for a treat.

Low-Intervention and Modern

Here’s where tradition meets the new wave. Alsace’s growing community of natural winemakers is letting the grapes speak for themselves with minimal intervention in the vineyard and cellar. The selection here includes everything from skin-contact wines to a pét-nat, each one a fresh take on what the region has to offer. These bottles are vibrant, a little rebellious and full of personality, offering a taste of the modern, raw side of Alsace.

For Your Dinner Party

This lineup showcases the true diversity of Alsace, where wines are made with food in mind. 

From rustic and unapologetically rich Alsatian classics, like sausage and  flàmmeküeche, to boldly spiced Thai, Indian or even Korean fare, where acidity, structure and, in some cases, sweetness help balance bold spices and flavors, these bottlings don’t overpower or get lost in a hearty meal.

A crisp, lively sparkler can set the tone of the evening while complex, layered Pinot Noirs and Rieslings are excellent for the main event. The wines selected below are intended to drink right now. They are a testament to Alsace’s wide range of styles that effortlessly complement whatever is on the dinner table.

More Alsace Coverage

• These are the wineries to visit in Alsace, a region where fairytale scenery meets cellars.
• Before you go, read the Wine Enthusiast guide to Alsace.
• Get to know the Grand Crus of Alsace.
• The top-rated Alsatian Pinot Gris to drink.
• The six grapes that define Alsatian wine.