Master Winemaker 100: David Landini

The general manager and CEO of Villa Saletta tells db about ancient inspiration, mixing genres and the importance of biodiversity to his approach. A native of Tuscany, David Landini studied Viticulture & Oenology at Florence University after gaining an initial degree in Agricultural Technology & Science. In 2002, he joined Marchesi Frescobaldi to help develop agriculture and viticulture at three wine estates. Landini’s career has also taken in another high-profile Tuscan family wine dynasty, Marchesi Antinori, where his technical expertise helped to develop four new vineyard estates. In 2014, he joined the historic Villa Saletta winery, perched high in the Tuscan hills, with the clear goal of making amazing wines and building a brand-new, state-of-the-art cellar.

What job did you imagine yourself doing when you were seven years old?

When I was seven years old, I was obsessed with the architecture of the ancient Greeks and their way of constructing perspective geometries for temples, theatres, palaces and avenues. So I wanted to be an architect. Even when I think about a wine, I still do it with that old-fashioned tension.

Who first led you down the winemaking career path, and how?

In my family, agriculture and, in particular, viticulture and winemaking have always been an integral part of daily life. My grandfather on my mother’s side of the family, who did some winemaking, gave me my first taste of it. But it was definitely contact with the iconic noble Tuscan families with whom I took my first steps in this world, the Frescobaldis and the Antinoris, that turned the light on.

What’s the most recent lesson this job has taught you?

This work continues to be a source of inspiration. The latest lesson is the ability to be resilient, adaptable, flexible and prepared for rapid change. You always try to plan for every little thing, but then you always have to deal with rapid change by adapting as quickly as possible.

If you were a wine, what would your back label say?

Eclectic, but still bound by tradition. A modern taste, but with ancient memories. Have fun and live in the moment with the utmost happiness.

What’s the last book you read?

I am a big fan of Sicily and of Andrea Camilleri’s literature. The last book I read was Riccardino, about the last case of Detective Montalbano. He is an incredible character who, like me, loves good food and drink.

What’s the last live music performance you saw?

I saw Stefano Bollani, one of Italy’s greatest jazz pianists. He is able to mix all genres of music, a bit like a winemaker does with wines.

What frustrates you most about the world of wine?

Often the wine world is either self-referential, brand-bound or, on the other hand, too unconventional and alternative. From what I know, in the end, a good wine always has a reason to be appreciated by everyone.

Which sustainability initiative are you most proud of, and why?

I think biodiversity is the most important factor to improve our environment and the quality of a vineyard, and then a wine. There is a series of activities that need to be managed like a musical orchestra: introducing antagonistic insects, planting meadows with reblooming varieties that increase soil fertility, special green manure mixtures, total reduction of chemicals, meticulous improvement of each step of the process, planting forests in the valley bottoms to thermoregulate the macro-environment, avoiding monocultures and being respectful in the winery, producing and using renewable energy. I am proud to combine all these and other activities.

If you could change one thing about your wine region, what would it be?

The concentration of property in a few hands is something that is happening, and it is taking away the diversity of style, product and identity that has always been part of our culture. The Guelph and Ghibelline eras, although very fractious and parochial, I think deeply shaped our identity.

Which winemaker do you most admire, and why?

I admire many winemakers in my region, but if I have to choose one, and even though I have never worked with him, I think Carlo Ferrini’s style and vision is the one that has most inspired me.

Which missing skill do you most wish you possessed?

Having good eyesight... just kidding! I’m very thoughtful and empathetic, but sometimes I get inflamed by things I think are unfair. This is where I would like to have the calmness and ability to approach a dialogue with empathetic patience and reasoning, even if I fundamentally disagree with the subject matter.

What’s your idea of a perfect holiday?

Family, friends, music, good food, good wine, fresh air, sea and mountains. Oh my God, I was forgetting: no mobile phone.

What is the most pressing personal or professional ambition you’d like to fulfil?

I would like to be a good dad whose children will also remember the ability to make good (hopefully great!) wines.

What would your final meal be? And what would you drink with it?

A good, eight-centimetre Chianina steak with field salad and roast potatoes. I would like to have two wines with it, as it is very big: Château Latour 1990 and also a nice glass of Brunello di Montalcino 1997, so we have two taste profiles that go well with the meat. Patrcia Stefanowicz MW wrote this tasting note for Villa Saletta's Master medal-winning wine at The Global Sangiovese Masters 2024.

Fattoria Villa Saletta Chiave di Saletta 2019

• Producer: Fattoria Villa Saletta
• Region: Tuscany
• Country: Italy
• Grape varieties: 50% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
• ABV: 14%
• Vintage: 2019
• Approx. retail price: £28

This wine, Super Tuscan in style, has a deep ruby core and a touch of brick on the rim. The lovely nose exhibits dark cherry, blackberry and ripe plum fruit, cedar wood and hints of hedgerow and balsamic. The palate is packed with dark fruits, echoing the nose, and plenty of coconut, white pepper, cinnamon and allspice, framed by silky tannins and crisp acidity. An exciting, complex wine to match haunch of venison and a mélange of root vegetables.