Wine list of the week: The Pig in the Cotswolds
Douglas Blyde visits the newest outpost of The Pig hotel chain, kicking things off with a "lively, juicy fizz from the South Downs" and building up to Jean-Luc Mouillard’s Sweet Straw Wine. The post Wine list of the week: The Pig in the Cotswolds appeared first on The Drinks Business.
Douglas Blyde visits the newest outpost of The Pig hotel chain, kicking things off with a "lively, juicy fizz from the South Downs" and building up to Jean-Luc Mouillard’s Sweet Straw Wine.
Susan and Robin Hutson reshaped the landscape of British hospitality, crafting a new paradigm which seamlessly melds the weathered charm of country estates with the polish of urban sophistication, all while adhering to the rigorous sustainability standards of B-Corp. They’ve distilled the essence of those draughty, storied manor houses – where the echoes of fretting aristocrats linger in corridors - and transformed it into something fresh, welcoming, and vibrantly lived-in.
As Susan d’Arcy noted in The Times: “They sold the Hotel du Vin chain for £66 million in 2004 and in 2009 set up Lime Wood, now one of our best country house hotels.”
By 2011, their first Pig hotel had emerged - a bold experiment which rapidly grew into a national treasure. Scratch the surface of its so-called shabby chic, and you’ll find a heartfelt warmth emanating from every corner - and calibration. The Pigs are an antidote to the lifeless, cookie-cutter chains which dominate the hospitality industry - a triumph of authenticity over artifice.
With ten thriving locations and a legion of devoted fans willing to drop everything to snag a room, the Hutsons have passed the baton to CEO Tom Ross. The future holds yet more promise: The Pig on the Farm in Stratford-upon-Avon is on the horizon. No longer merely a collection of hotels, The Pig is a legacy – a sanctuary for every traveller, an institution for all occasions. It is almost unthinkable to imagine British hospitality without it.
A minute’s stroll away is the main hotel, Barnsley House – a former rectory wrapped in elegant grounds designed by horticultural legend, Rosemary Verey. These gardens form the lush frame for the Verey Suite, described by The Telegraph as having “its own courtyard and private dining room,” a detail which whispers exclusivity without undue ostentation.
The next course featured melting slices of cured Mangalitsa pork loin, accompanied by sourdough and rapeseed oil bottled playfully in a repurposed Fever-Tree glass with a recycled cork. With this, Osborne poured Gavin Carver’s Paradox White Pinot Noir 2021, from Minster Lovell-based micro-winery, Freedom of the Press. Sourced from Crouch Valley grapes, the wine offered a harmonious interplay of lees and fruit, described by Osborne as “rhubarb and custard – but not sickly.” Its beautifully designed label, Osborne observed, stood as an antidote to the “bad packaging England has long suffered”.
The journey continued with a Coravin pour of Celler Aixalà Alcait Les Clivelles Blanc 2023, a white Priorat made in tiny quantities - just 400 bottles - by a husband-and-wife team. Osborne described it as “scrubby and herbaceous, yet crystalline,” likening its energy to serious Swartland wines.
From South Africa’s Paardeberg in the Swartland came Eben Sadie’s Palladius 2021, “an occasional treat” due to its limited allocation. Though youthful, its “lovely austerity” hinted at stone fruits and lanolin. Paired with lightly charred southwest coast scallops and warm tartar sauce, the wine teased out an almost pineapple note.
Next came a particularly perfumed young Fleurie from Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot, poured by Osborne at a slightly lowered temperature to reveal violet aromas. Despite its floral elegance, the structure offered what Osborne described as “meat on the bones.” He spoke of visiting Hoppenot’s poppy-punctuated bush vines after a trip to “bucket list producers” in the Côte d’Or, finding sanctuary in the rugged beauty of Beaujolais. “More tangible,” he said, “more nuanced in its wild aspects.” This, he declared, was the perfect wine for a Tuesday-night gathering with friends.
For the boldest wine of the day, Osborne presented Teixar 2019 from Vinyes Domènech Montsant, made from Garnacha Peluda vines up to a century old. At 15.5% alcohol, it carried the potential for excess but instead exhibited chiselled precision. “It doesn’t feel like overworked Amarone” Osborne said, admiring its integration.
Dessert arrived in the form of strawberry and basil, and raspberry with mint ice creams both vibrant and refreshing. Osborne paired these with late harvest 2016 Tokaji by Oremus, explaining that it was “not so much about botrytis, but acid and varietal fruit”, and Jean-Luc Mouillard’s Sweet Straw Wine, a complex creation with oxidative notes, he said, of “tobacco and button mushrooms” layered over the sweetness of stewed stone fruits – a remarkable, long-lived conclusion to lunch.
Susan and Robin Hutson reshaped the landscape of British hospitality, crafting a new paradigm which seamlessly melds the weathered charm of country estates with the polish of urban sophistication, all while adhering to the rigorous sustainability standards of B-Corp. They’ve distilled the essence of those draughty, storied manor houses – where the echoes of fretting aristocrats linger in corridors - and transformed it into something fresh, welcoming, and vibrantly lived-in.
As Susan d’Arcy noted in The Times: “They sold the Hotel du Vin chain for £66 million in 2004 and in 2009 set up Lime Wood, now one of our best country house hotels.”
By 2011, their first Pig hotel had emerged - a bold experiment which rapidly grew into a national treasure. Scratch the surface of its so-called shabby chic, and you’ll find a heartfelt warmth emanating from every corner - and calibration. The Pigs are an antidote to the lifeless, cookie-cutter chains which dominate the hospitality industry - a triumph of authenticity over artifice.
With ten thriving locations and a legion of devoted fans willing to drop everything to snag a room, the Hutsons have passed the baton to CEO Tom Ross. The future holds yet more promise: The Pig on the Farm in Stratford-upon-Avon is on the horizon. No longer merely a collection of hotels, The Pig is a legacy – a sanctuary for every traveller, an institution for all occasions. It is almost unthinkable to imagine British hospitality without it.
Design
The Village Pub, part of The Pig’s Cotswolds retreat, exudes understated flair. Housed in the former Greyhound Inn, an 18th-century pub, it’s everything a village pub should be – “crackling log fires, low, beamed ceilings, and aged benches shoehorned into cosy nooks,” as Mr & Mrs Smith observed, plus a dash of taxidermy. Thoughtful glazing and soundproofing ensure the upstairs rooms are as comforting as the downstairs pint.
A minute’s stroll away is the main hotel, Barnsley House – a former rectory wrapped in elegant grounds designed by horticultural legend, Rosemary Verey. These gardens form the lush frame for the Verey Suite, described by The Telegraph as having “its own courtyard and private dining room,” a detail which whispers exclusivity without undue ostentation.
Drinks
The wine lists at The Village Pub and The Pig in the Cotswolds are curated by Luke Harbor, a Devon-born Master of Wine student, and Ed Osborne, the local beverage director. The Village Pub’s concise list punches above its weight. It offers a humble Prosecco but also intriguing options such as Jean-Claude Boisset’s 2020 Chambolle-Musigny (£20.50 per 175ml via Coravin) and the locally-grown 2021 Pinot Noir Précoce from Woodchester Valley (£56 per bottle). The list is brimming with surprises, like Fog Monster 2018, a Napa Syrah with “Northern Rhône character,” said Osborne, made by the Mullineux family (£105) and unexpectedly wonderful with piped Gentleman’s Relish on toast. At the flagship hotel, the wine list is expansive, offering over 250 bottles traversing terroirs near and far. Highlights include Devon Minnow Bacchus (£66), a collaboration between Robin Hutson and chef and food writer, Mark Hix, and the Pig Reserve (£69), made by Dermot Sugrue, who tends The Pig’s own vineyard, featuring some of England’s oldest Gamay vines. Domaine Hugo Brut Nature 2020 (£95) from Wiltshire adds interest, while Pol Roger’s Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2015 (£350) provides decadence in a glass. The “Classics” section features François Merlin’s 2014 Côte-Rôtie (£98) and Vega Sicilia’s 2018 Alión (£175), while “Curiosities” tempt with Niepoort’s 2021 Baga Natcool (£59 per litre) and, from “The Vault,” Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste Hune 2001 (£395). For larger groups, there’s the 2022 Polish Hill “Reisling” [sic] in magnum (£195). Sweet wines round out the selection, including Rutherglen’s reliable NV Black Muscat (£10 per unspecified measure). Once crammed onto two A3 pages, the list now stretches out in the form of a proper book – at last.Dishes
The kitchen at The Pig, led by head chef Will Parkes, thrives on hyper-locality. Eighty percent of ingredients are sourced within a 25-mile radius, including vegetables and fruits cultivated in the property’s raised beds. Two bustling chicken coops deliver eggs, while a patch of land lies ready for a possible modest vineyard. Lunch began with pigs in blankets – simple in concept, but executed to perfection. Smoky sausages encased in crisp bacon alongside a tart cranberry dip. These were devoured alongside Lobster Shed Pink, a lively, juicy fizz from the South Downs originally devised for The Pig’s Cornwall outpost – “where we sell lots of lobster from our wood oven,” noted Osborne – the wine brought a bright, celebratory start.
The next course featured melting slices of cured Mangalitsa pork loin, accompanied by sourdough and rapeseed oil bottled playfully in a repurposed Fever-Tree glass with a recycled cork. With this, Osborne poured Gavin Carver’s Paradox White Pinot Noir 2021, from Minster Lovell-based micro-winery, Freedom of the Press. Sourced from Crouch Valley grapes, the wine offered a harmonious interplay of lees and fruit, described by Osborne as “rhubarb and custard – but not sickly.” Its beautifully designed label, Osborne observed, stood as an antidote to the “bad packaging England has long suffered”.
The journey continued with a Coravin pour of Celler Aixalà Alcait Les Clivelles Blanc 2023, a white Priorat made in tiny quantities - just 400 bottles - by a husband-and-wife team. Osborne described it as “scrubby and herbaceous, yet crystalline,” likening its energy to serious Swartland wines.
From South Africa’s Paardeberg in the Swartland came Eben Sadie’s Palladius 2021, “an occasional treat” due to its limited allocation. Though youthful, its “lovely austerity” hinted at stone fruits and lanolin. Paired with lightly charred southwest coast scallops and warm tartar sauce, the wine teased out an almost pineapple note.
Next came a particularly perfumed young Fleurie from Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot, poured by Osborne at a slightly lowered temperature to reveal violet aromas. Despite its floral elegance, the structure offered what Osborne described as “meat on the bones.” He spoke of visiting Hoppenot’s poppy-punctuated bush vines after a trip to “bucket list producers” in the Côte d’Or, finding sanctuary in the rugged beauty of Beaujolais. “More tangible,” he said, “more nuanced in its wild aspects.” This, he declared, was the perfect wine for a Tuesday-night gathering with friends.
For the boldest wine of the day, Osborne presented Teixar 2019 from Vinyes Domènech Montsant, made from Garnacha Peluda vines up to a century old. At 15.5% alcohol, it carried the potential for excess but instead exhibited chiselled precision. “It doesn’t feel like overworked Amarone” Osborne said, admiring its integration.
Dessert arrived in the form of strawberry and basil, and raspberry with mint ice creams both vibrant and refreshing. Osborne paired these with late harvest 2016 Tokaji by Oremus, explaining that it was “not so much about botrytis, but acid and varietal fruit”, and Jean-Luc Mouillard’s Sweet Straw Wine, a complex creation with oxidative notes, he said, of “tobacco and button mushrooms” layered over the sweetness of stewed stone fruits – a remarkable, long-lived conclusion to lunch.
Last word
The Pig’s Cotswolds debut is less about the notably spacious accommodation, and more a state of mind. It’s where every sip of wine, every forkful of food, and every creak of the floorboards feels like a means to highlight life’s finer, simpler pleasures. A short drive from the source of the Thames and a trout farm where you can catch and cook your own, it’s a place which reminds you to slow down, savour, sip, and talk.Best for
- Landscaped gardens, spa, and tennis court
- Specialist approach to English wines
- Local sourcing across all areas, from ingredients to ales, wines and spirits
