Why China’s pollution could be a boon for NZ Pinot Noir

The smog over the People's Republic of China may have an unexpected benefit for New Zealand Pinot producers, says MW. Earlier this month the buzzing city of Christchurch welcomed winemakers, press and wine business owners to Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025. The much-loved event historically took place every four years, however the plug had to be pulled on the 2021 edition due to Covid restrictions, making February the first time the trade had gathered to celebrate the nation's flagship red grape since 2017. A packed itinerary of international speakers and local experts at the event explored the cultural heartbeat of New Zealand Pinot alongside the latest exciting innovations in the vineyard and how NZ Pinot is perceived by key markets. Speaking at the conference, Toronto-based Jacky Blisson MW revealed that China is heaving with potential for New Zealand producers. "In China everyone is looking for Lafite, but Burgundies are growing in popularity and New Zealand Pinot is really benefitting from this," she said. "Pinot has an amazingly positive image in China." However, she added: "You're lucky to see a blue sky in Beijing [due to the pollution]. So for the Chinese market, New Zealand represents that purity, the idea of connecting to nature."

Pure shores

Blisson emphasised the "trustworthiness of New Zealand agricultural products" in the eyes of Chinese consumers, and hinted that producers could capitalise on this perception of their pure produce and environment when marketing their Pinots in South East Asia. Clean air is becoming increasingly important to China, which despite having the highest CO2 emissions of any country in 2024 (followed by the US and India) is making extraordinary efforts to green its nation. In fact, China is "outshining all other nations when it comes to climate change," renowned environmental scientist and conservationist Professor Tim Flannery told guests at the Pinot NZ 2025 event. "Half of the world's solar panels were installed by China in the last year alone, and China has reached its 2030 targets six years in advance," he said. Indeed, according to a report by Carbon Brief, solar generation rose by 44% in China in 2024 (compared with 2023), and wind-generated energy by 24%, with both continuing to see record-breaking new capacities. More broadly, in Q3 of 2024 there was zero growth for China's CO2 emissions.

Show me the money

Blisson's belief that Chinese demand is there for NZ Pinot is further supported by data from Wine-Searcher, which indicates that 3.9 million searches were made for 'Pinot Noir' in Hong Kong and Mainland China combined last year. But it's the top end of the market that Chinese consumers are looking at. "Although China is only the ninth biggest market for volume sales of NZ Pinot, it is the seventh biggest market for value sales," said Blisson, suggesting that Chinese consumers are willing to pay more for New Zealand's high-end expressions. "The biggest comment I hear is that NZ Pinot is too cheap in China. They're excited about the premium level," she added. "Wine in China is not consumed by yourself. Wine is opened with friends in a social setting and the wine you bring demonstrates your income, your identity", meaning consumers are more likely to reach for aspirational brands. Additional Wine-Searcher data shows that the lion's share of NZ Pinots currently sit within the NZ$12-$16 slot, so there is significant potential for producers to launch or even re-launch their wines in China with more premium price tags, especially if those wines emphasise New Zealand's sustainable credentials. China's love affair with Pinot is going nowhere, with Blisson attesting that Chinese viticulturalists are now "trying to plant their own Pinot." "But don't worry, you don't have anything to worry about yet..." she told the assembled audience of New Zealand winemakers.