What can Cistercian monks teach a modern Champagne house?

The era of winemaking monks may be largely over, but Champagne Drappier proves their influence is still valuable in its Clarevallis cuvée. Categories of ‘Old World’ and ‘New World’ may be falling out of favour, but there are undeniably wine regions that bring immense history to the table. One of those, of course, is Champagne. Its wines were well regarded even before they took on their sparkling identity. Winegrowing dates back to at least the 5th century, and Champagne’s proximity to the important towns of Soissons, Laon and Paris no doubt helped in its early development. It was, however, the influence of monks, including one Dom Pierre Pérignon, that really grew the industry, ready for its commercial success. It is to that storied history that Champagne Drappier’s Clarevallis pays tribute. The cuvée takes its name from St. Bernard’s Clairvaux Abbey, the largest Cistercian abbey in France. Yet it is not just a canny branding exercise. The style and production of the cuvée reference the region’s history; in the words of the house, it is “Cistercian purity in a generous nature.”

A modern tribute to the past

The clearest evidence of Clarevallis’ historical connection is in the vines themselves. Its grapes are sourced from Urville hillsides, and the vineyards date back to the era of Cistercian monks. In fact, the village of Urville in the Côte des Bar is just 15 minutes away from the Clairvaux Abbey. In tending those vines, Champagne Drappier takes an approach that is both led by tradition and in keeping with modern tastes. Despite it being a challenging prospect, the vines are all tended organically. They are even tilled partly with a horse. Such techniques, which would have been recognisable to 17th century monks, ensure that Clarevallis can express its landscape. The Jurassic Kimmeridgean limestone terroir is allowed to shine through with minimal intervention, reflected in a minerality that the house marks as a calling card of the wine. Once in the winery, lower intervention remains the focus. The blend, led by Pinot Noir, but also featuring Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Blanc Vrai (Pinot Blanc), comes only from the first press to preserve the grapes’ natural delicacy. It is transferred through the winery by gravity, a technique known for its gentleness. On bottling, little is changed. Drappier does not filter or discolour the wine, and sulfites are kept to a minimum. The dosage – 4g/l – is also intended to be a discreet addition. Thus the production of Clarevallis pays tribute to ancient styles of production, even as they dovetail with modern consumer interests in organic viticulture and lower intervention.

Finding its audience

What is fascinating about Clarevallis is the position it occupies between tradition and modernity. Even the label makes that case. The design, referencing an illuminated medieval manuscript, is evidently historical. Yet it is cleanly designed, modern and unfussy. Likewise the “purity” referenced by the house is a telling term. It is not just a question of historical authenticity, but also of the authentic expression of grapes and terroir. Drappier’s approach in marking Clarevallis could be considered ‘back-to-basics’ but it is also in step with some of the biggest trends in the current industry. Consumers increasingly seek out authenticity in production, displaying the grapes and their terroir without addition or adulteration. Whether looking back to the past or forwards to a new generation of drinkers, Champagne Drappier has found a definition of purity that serves them well. Don’t let the proud historical references throw you; this is a Champagne just as happy in the 21st century as in the 17th. Patricia Stefanowicz MW tasted the cuvée last year and her tasting note follows.

Champagne Drappier Clarevallis NV

• Producer: Champagne Drappier
• Region: Champagne
• Country: France
• Grape varieties: 75% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, 10% Meunier, 5% Blanc Vrai
• ABV: 12.0%
• Vintage: NV
• Closure: Champagne Cork
• Approx. retail price: £60.00
• Medal: Gold

Inspired by the 12th century Clairvaux monastery of St. Bernard, this Champagne displays a mid-deep gold colour and tiny bubbles that migrate gently to the edge of the cordon. The aromatic nose has yellow peach and apricot with butter and cream autolysis and crushed yellow rose and violet accents. The Brut-style palate, too, is beautifully perfumed, medium-bodied with linen-textured mousse and bracing acidity framing the flavours. Integrated and showing some development across the mid-palate, the wine has a lengthy, savoury finish. Excellent example.