How Rioja Alavesa packs a lot of potential into a small region

As a small producer working the El Sacramento vineyard close to Laguardia, Viñas Leizaola illustrates the substantial potential of Rioja Alavesa. Some regions – think of Burgundy and Barolo – have had regional specificity baked into them for centuries. Yet as authenticity continues to drive consumer trends and ‘terroir’ enters the lexicon beyond the wine trade, other areas are hurrying to build classifications around their unique regional character. The push towards specificity is clear: one only has to look at the flurry of American Viticultural Areas declared since 1980, or the recent mapping of Austrian vineyards, to see it in action. Rioja is a region that certainly falls into the second category. While it has long and distinguished history, among consumers its identity is often tied to the region as a whole. Although its subzones are recognised by many in the trade, Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental were, for many years, barred from appearing on wine labels. Only in the last 10 years has the system been reformed, opening the door to zones, municipalities and single vineyards appearing on labels from 2019. Among its subzones, Rioja Alavesa may be the smallest, but it has a wealth of riches. Few would know that better than Etienne Cordonnier, owner of Viñas Leizaola. Having worked with his family firm brokering fine wines into the Belgian market, Cordonnier had enviable exposure to top wines. He knew the iconic wines of France  – Pomerol and Saint Émilion from the 1955 or 1971 vintages, for instance – but also fine Spanish wines, such as 1964 Rioja Alavesa. Indeed, his move into winemaking was in part inspired by noticing the similarities between such wines: great terroirs, balance and elegance, silky tannins and freshness of fruit even with bottle age. In 2011, he purchased El Sacramento, a 22 hectare mosaic of plots close to Laguardia. Not only was it his opportunity to craft his own fine wines but it also served to pay tribute to Basque heritage on his mother’s side. “It is an ‘El Dorado’ for a newcomer generation of viticulturalists and winemakers,” says Cordonnier, “as Tuscany or Napa Valley had been in the 90s.” So what makes him so evangelical about Rioja Alavesa? And what can the El Sacramento site tell of the region's potential?

Natural abundance

As the smallest of Rioja’s three subzones, Rioja Alavesa is also the most specific. Its main section, around Laguardia, occupies a stretch around 25 kilometres wide, running from the Ebro River in the south and rising for 15km northwards into the Sierra Cantabria hills. A further small area of Rioja Alavesa sits northeast of Haro. Since it is the northernmost subzone, it feels the cooling, maritime influence of the Atlantic most strongly. The mountains shield it to some degree, but cool air can enter the region through gaps in the hills, freshening the climate. Rioja Alavesa’s position, at an intersection of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences, helps its vines balance ripeness and freshness. Another key geographical hallmark of Rioja Alavesa is its elevation. Vineyards range from 400 metres by the river to 700m in the hills (which peak around 1200m). At the El Sacramento site, between 500 and 520m, the cooling effect of elevation helps balance the latitude-induced warmth (after all, it sits further south than both Florence and Nice). For the final piece of the geographical puzzle, Rioja Alavesa has a complex geology. Once a coastal region, but still heavily influenced by the nearby river, it is a patchwork of red clays and bright limestone. It is not a natural landscape for all agriculture, but vines can thrive and root deeply in the free-draining soils. At the El Sacramento estate, which spans a variety of soils but is largely situated on a rocky promontory, those soils have proved ideal for fine wine production. The Tempranillo vines, stressed by the dramatic conditions, can achieve the concentration and elegance on which Rioja has built its fine wine reputation.

Homage to history

Yet a further appeal of the region, especially for Cordonnier, has been its history. Rioja Alavesa has a centuries-old tradition of winemaking, an inviting prospect for someone so enmeshed in the industry. The estate’s name, for starters, is a historical relic. Historical documents from Laguardia indicate that a religious order, the Brotherhood of the Santísimo Sacramento, owned vineyards in the area in the 17th century. The profits from the land funded their work to help the sick and those in poverty. One plot was named El Sacramento, and it is believed that this is now part of the Viñas Leizaola estate. The draw for Cordonnier is therefore more than simply familial. He has embraced the specific history of his slice of Spain. The broader region also has significance. Having worked in the fine wine sphere, dealing with many Bordeaux producers, Cordonnier saw the appeal of Rioja Alavesa’s connection to the French winemaking centre. Since the Middle Ages, for instance, both Rioja and Bordeaux have been stops on the Camino de Santiago, the route of pilgrimage leading to Santiago de Compostela. In later years, the two regions directly influenced each other as they developed winemaking expertise. During civil wars in the 18th century, several influential Spanish winemakers took refuge in Bordeaux, where they uncovered new techniques to bring home. The favour was then repaid in the 19th century. As the phylloxera louse devastated French vineyards, Rioja wines stepped up to plug the gap left by Bordeaux. Many French winemakers, in fact, then set up in Rioja. Cordonnier, therefore, has been keen to reference the region’s culture. Indeed, he takes particular pride in now listing his flagship wine on La Place de Bordeaux. As a region that is still establishing its nuances on the world stage, he makes a compelling case for the unique draw of Rioja Alavesa.