Once Forgotten, Viognier Is Back in the Spotlight. Try These Top Bottles.

Viognier (pronounced VEE-oh-nyay) is a white grape variety historically grown in France’s Rhône Valley. Full-bodied and aromatically intense, it is sometimes blended with other white Rhône varietals like Marsanne and Roussanne. 

Though Viognier has long been made into stand-alone varietal wines, it has garnered a reputation for creating wines that are considered overly rich and thick. But that’s no longer accurate. 

Winemakers in both Viognier’s traditional home and growing regions across the globe are increasingly flipping the script and “consistently producing elegant renditions,” says Anna-Christina Cabrales, Wine Enthusiast’s tasting director and resident Rhône reviewer. “Gone are the days where Viognier is just really fat and dense.”

These single-varietal bottles span a wide range of textures and aromas, making them ideal partners for boldly flavored fare like Indian cuisine, complex Thai dishes and Filipino classics.

In hotter vintages, Viognier wines often take on tropical, ginger and ripe citrus flavors. In cooler growing seasons, Viognier’s tropical, ginger and ripe citrus flavors take on a leaner expression. In these instances, lemongrass and spices, like white pepper and saffron, also join the mix.

The best examples deliver ethereal, elegant qualities. “It doesn’t feel like you are chomping into a bowl of fruit cocktail Jell-O,” she says. “It’s like a ballerina that dances across the palate.”

No matter the year or the region, however, these wines warrant exploration. We decided it was time to round up the top bottles on the market. From the Condrieu to California to Australia’s Eden Valley, these Viognier wines deserve space on your buying list.

California

In the United States, Viognier had a big moment in the 1990s, thanks to hundreds of California wineries. It faded into relative obscurity—never quite becoming the “next big grape” it was predicted to be. However, wider appreciation for the varietal is growing, in part because of all the lovely Viogniers being produced in the Golden State. 

“Viognier is a beautiful aromatic grape varietal that has the opportunity to shine and thrive in California,” says Wine Enthusiast writer-at-large Tonya Pitts, who reviews wines from California. “The expressions produced can be ethereal, drenched in sunshine and a field of florals, or dense, tantalizing and thought-provoking. There is an interpretation to satisfy various palates.”

According to the Oxford Companion, the state has the world’s second biggest area of Viognier planted: just over 2,555 acres in 2020, largely located in the Central Coast. California Viogniers tend to be higher in alcohol due to ripening under the state’s famous sun.

Wine Enthusiast recommends

Starfield Vineyards 2023 Viognier (El Dorado)

This wine is vivacious, bright, with aromas of White peach, citrus, guava, and honeysuckle on the nose. The flavors on the palate are White nectarine, orange segments, dried herbs, and good acidity on the finish. Super delicious and meant to shared with friends while basking in the sun. 94 points — Tonya Pitts $36 Starfield Vineyards

Le Casque 2023 Damiano Vineyard Viognier (Sierra Foothills)

This wine is bright, zesty, with aromas of white peach, apple, citrus, white flowers, and notes of honeycomb on the nose. The flavors on the palate are apricot, white nectarine, pink grapefruit zest, layered with sedimentary rock, dried sage leaf, and a dry, mouthwatering finish. Pair with seafood pineapple fried rice. 93 points — T.P. $30 Casque Wines

McManis 2023 Viognier (River Junction)

This wine is bright, zippy with aromas of citrus, yellow apple, white peach, apricot, and notes of white blossom honey on the nose. The flavors on the palate are nectarine, fruit cocktail, acacia honey, jasmine tea and a supple mouthwatering finish. Pair with Thai papaya salad. 93 points — T.P. $14 Wine Country

Barossa Valley

Some of the most exciting Viognier expressions are currently coming out of Australia’s Barossa Valley—specifically, the cool climate Eden Valley. Resisting the varietal’s reputation for flabbiness, the region’s standout Viogniers are zippy, food-friendly and exceptionally luscious.

Wine Enthusiast recommends

Yalumba 2020 The Virgilius Viognier (Eden Valley)

This premium Viognier, from the winery that’s cheered loudest for the variety, opens with flint and almond alongside honeyed orchard fruit aromas. Viognier’s characteristically luscious mouthfeel dominates the palate. The fruit and acidity are quiet but holding on after a few years of bottle age. A subdued, food friendly and harmonious drop. 92 points — Christina Pickard $50 Wine.com

Tim Smith 2023 Viognier (Eden Valley)

There’s lovely bright lemony freshness—with hints of dried herbs and florals—to start. These morph into flavors on the palate, combining with a chalky texture and a wonderfully zippy, bouncy acidity. Makes for a food-friendly bottling that avoids the flabbiness for which this variety is prone. 91 points — C.P. $25 Viscount Wines

Yalumba 2021 Samuel’s Collection Viognier (Eden Valley)

Quite perfumed, this wild-fermented wine, from one of Aus’s greatest Viognier champions, wafts aromas of lychee, pineapple rind, apricot and a little honey and ginger. It’s full-figured with a mouth-coating texture and just enough acidity to handle it. Drink with buttery shellfish or a mildly seasoned pork loin. 90 points — C.P. $16 Empire Wine

Rhône Valley

Viognier has been grown on the steep terraces of the Northern Rhône for centuries. Plantings declined through the mid-20th century due to low productivity, but the grape was launched into international stardom in the early 1990s with the rise in popularity of Condrieu, the yellow-hued French wine made solely from the grape.

While famous for Condrieu, Viognier is also well-suited to blending with other Rhône varieties, including Marsanne, Roussanne Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Picardan. Rhône’s white wines make up roughly 10% of the region’s production, “yet offer a remarkable range of styles from bright and zesty to rich and full-bodied,” says Cabrales.

“If people have not picked up a glass of Viognier recently, they should.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends

Domaine Martin Clerc 2022 Viognier (Condrieu)

Medium yellow in hue with subtle flexes of gold, this wine exudes refined notes of yellow peach, white rose and wild honey. The palate is round and texture with additional delicate flavors of ginger, and light brown butter that gently lingers through the finish. Perfect for roasted poultry or vegetarian fare. 92 points — Anna-Christina Cabrales $55 Fine Wine and Good Spirits

M. Chapoutier 2021 Invitare Viognier (Condrieu)

This wine is intensely aromatic with ripe white peach, Meyer lemon, apricot and a squeeze of pineapple and acacia honey. The palate is bold and refreshing, revealing balanced flavors of citrus, lemongrass, and white tea which is carried by its long brisk finish. Light on its toes, this wine can be enjoyed now. 93 points — A.C. $100 Wine.com

E. Guigal 2021 Viognier (Condrieu)

With a fresh and floral profile, this wine offers clean aromas of citrus and a captivating bouquet of white rose, chamomile, lilac and violet. Balanced with firm minerality, it presents a textured palate featuring white tea leaf, ripe white peaches, white peppercorn and a long stony finish. Enjoy now. 91 points — A.C. $64 Station Plaza Wine

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