The head oenologist and technical director at Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza in Rioja tells db about exploring gastronomy, bringing sustainability to the vineyards and taking pride in his Rioja roots.
Established in 1989 and located in the centre of the small town of Samaniego, in the province of Álava,
Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza makes a range of contemporary Rioja wines. The company has 80 hectares of its own vineyards, which are spread over 240 plots, placed in prime locations in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria mountains. Jesús Mendoza joined the winemaking team at Remírez de Ganuza in 1994, before being promoted to his current leading role as head oenologist and technical director in 2001.
What job did you imagine yourself doing when you were seven years old?
I don’t really remember, but it would surely have been related to sport, especially football. At the age of 18 I was still playing on a good team.
Who first led you down the winemaking career path, and how?
My father introduced me to the world of viticulture, since it was what he dedicated himself to. Both my mother and my father came from generation after generation of wine growers.
What is the most recent lesson this job has taught you?
In recent harvests, I have learned that no year is the same, and that you cannot trust yourself. When we believed that everything was going perfectly, and there were not going to be any complications, then the rain came.
If you were a wine, what would your back label say?
Pure terroir. I am from Rioja, from San Vicente de la Sonsierra, and proud to be so. I don’t deceive anyone: what you see is what you get; I am honest like the wines I try to make.
What’s the last book you read?
Terroir Footprints by Pedro Parra.
What’s the last live music performance you saw?
I don’t even remember, but I have tickets to see Bruce Springsteen in San Sebastián.
What frustrates you most about the world of wine?
That it is harvested only once a year.
Which sustainability initiative are you most proud of, and why?
At Remírez de Ganuza we have always tried to make responsible use of resources, but today what I can highlight is the efforts we are making in viticulture. Trying to be sustainable and responsible in terms of treatments in the vineyard is complicated due to the size of the plots, orography and proximity of neighbours, but we firmly believe that this effort is necessary so that future generations can continue enjoying our landscape and cultural heritage.
If you could change one thing about your wine region, what would it be?
The lack of landscape sensitivity that has existed at certain times and that today is incorrigible.
Which winemaker do you most admire, and why?
I can’t name one – that’s very difficult. It depends so much on different countries and wine styles.
Which missing skill do you most wish you possessed?
To be more patient.
What’s your idea of a perfect holiday?
The most important thing is that it be with my family and then, depending on the season, a trip to see a country with a few days at the beach or the mountains. Something constant on our trips is discovering the gastronomy and wines of the place we visit.
What is the most pressing personal or professional ambition you’d like to fulfil?
In 2025 at Remírez de Ganuza, we will bring a new “UV” (
single-vineyard) wine to the market that we have been making since 2017 and will finally see the light.
What would your final meal be? And what would you drink with it?
Good grilled fish with my family in Getaria, and a Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 2001.
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