In Retrospect: International Buyers' Takeaways from Berlin

Berlin seems to have finally secured its place in the tightly packed international fashion week calendar. This season, alongside editors from influential publications like Dazed Korea, Hypebeast, and i-D, buyers from London and Paris praised the collections.

Invited by the Fashion Council Germany, co-organizer of Berlin Fashion Week (BFW), these industry insiders made the trip to the German capital. But what draws such in-demand buyers to Berlin, and what impressions do they take away? Parisian retailer Elevastor, along with London-based stores Machine-A and Alta Store, share their perspectives.

Berlin: A Big Stage for Small Brands

Berlin Fashion Week, with its diverse brand mix, seems to have left a positive impression on its guests, particularly those attending for the first time. The tightly scheduled yet manageable fashion week program gives buyers ample time to engage with the various brands, points out Stavros Karelis. Berlin is a good place to "discover something new and fresh that doesn't really  exist in other places," says the Machine-A founder, whose concept store became known for showcasing emerging talent and has established itself as a prominent London address. Luxury brands like Jil Sander are now part of the assortment, alongside high-end streetwear from Martine Rose and experimental brands like Kiko Kostadinov.

Located near Machine-A in the vibrant Soho district is Alta, a relatively new store concept. Since its inception in 2021, the five independent designers behind Alta have not only showcased their own creations but have also spotlighted new talent each month, offering unique pieces in accessories and experimental womenswear.

Timna Weber, one of Alta's co-founders, is enthusiastic about the Berlin program: "Striking the balance between established and emerging brands, BFW ensures visibility for smaller brands that otherwise would've been overlooked at busier fashion weeks like Paris or London," she summarizes. "Here it feels like you're watching the future unfold, and I can't wait to see where this crop of designers are headed next."

Brands like GmbH and Marie Lueder, considered major players in Berlin, naturally garner more attention in the German capital. Both also show their collections in fashion capitals like Paris and London. There, they have to compete with fashion houses like Burberry, Louis Vuitton, and others to stay in the spotlight.

In Berlin, they are among the highlights for buyers and are also on Karelis's order list. He previously stocked GmbH and is now looking forward to a renewed collaboration. Currently, Machine-A carries the Berlin-based brand Ottolinger, as well as Herzogenaurach-based sportswear labels Adidas and Puma, who have partnered with Song for The Mute and Coperni, respectively.

Meanwhile, Weber has her eye on Lueder. She also thinks that Lou de Bètoly and Andrej Gronau would be a good fit for Alta Store's assortment. The store focuses on a mix of edginess, refinement, craftsmanship, conscious design, and playfulness. Having grown up in Austria, Weber is always searching for up-and-coming German-speaking brands. They currently carry the German jewelry brand Mussels and Muscles, as well as the Austrian brands Not Yet FYI, Güç, Rendl, and Timna Weber, the eponymous label of the store's co-founder. Products from the Austrian womenswear brand Christina Seewald are also slated to be added to the assortment soon.

Berlin's Brands in Transition

Alongside the well-known names, local heroes like Sia Arnika, Richert Beil, and Marke also impressed in Berlin. Returning guests like Karelis, who was already in Berlin for SS25, are particularly pleased with the development these emerging brands are undergoing.

But not only the brands but also fashion week itself is evolving positively. Mahana Walker last visited three years ago and senses a significant change. "It has improved in many ways," summarizes the Creative and Commercial Executive of Elevastor. The hybrid Parisian concept store focuses on brands like Avavav, Collina Strada, and Ottolinger, which make Gen Z hearts beat faster and transcend gender boundaries. The up-and-coming Austrian designer Florentina Leitner is also part of the assortment.

Walker also noted the development of the talent and a strong interest from people with diverse backgrounds. Walker was "pleasantly surprised" by Haderlump. The brand showcased a collection full of asymmetrical cuts and new silhouettes in an S-Bahn depot, exploring the theme of travelers from another era.

However, she felt a certain lack of diversity in the design and storytelling of the brands, at least when it comes to "the city’s essence. The Berlin scene has a lot to express, but it feels like the storytelling is somewhat repressed."

However, not everyone shared this opinion. Weber particularly praised the "great locations," the sense of community, and the connection to the city, which she perceived, among other things, at the show by Lou de Bètoly in a timeworn Berlin ballroom. "You can feel Berlin's unique DNA flowing through every show, seeing the history and architecture reflected in the collections. Making good use of the abundance of space in the city, each location felt powerful, massive, and distinct."

FashionUnited was invited to Berlin by the FCG.