English distillers stir up controversy with whisky GI bid

In a challenge to traditional whisky rules, English distillers have officially sought geographical indication (GI) status for their products, a move that some are calling “long overdue.” While the rest of the UK – Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland – has long enjoyed GI status for its whisky, England has been conspicuously absent from the fold. That is, until now. The English Whisky Guild, representing over 20 distilleries, has pushed for GI approval, giving English-made whisky legal protection and recognition similar to its Northern neighbours. But the move has not gone down easily with the Scots, and the controversy is bubbling up. The application, which passed a key milestone recently with its publication by DEFRA (the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs), is under public consultation until May 2025. And while many in the English distilling community are raising their glasses to the prospect of official recognition, others – chiefly the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) – are seeing red. The reason for the uproar? A proposed definition for “single malt” whisky that the SWA claims could undermine the integrity of the longstanding Scotch tradition.

The coveted single malt

Currently, Scotch whisky is tightly regulated, meaning that the grain must be mashed, fermented and distilled at a single site to earn the coveted “single malt” designation. The proposed English definition, however, would allow alternative processes – specifically, the mashing and fermentation could take place at different locations before distillation. The SWA has voiced serious concerns about this gap in production methods, warning that such changes would “harm the reputation of single malt whisky” and open the door for less rigorous production to tarnish the quality of the category. For some members of the English whisky industry, however, these fears are nothing more than sour grapes. South of the border, some have pointed to the growing reputation of English whiskies — two out of the last three years the World’s Best Whisky has hailed from England. They believe that English whisky, not confined by centuries of tradition, can forge its path. For them, this is not so much a challenge to Scotland's regulations as it is an embrace of modernity.

Tradition vs modernity

On the other end of the spectrum, industry experts have argued that regulations, while important for creating a fair market, are not the sole determinant of quality. For instance, many consumers may not fully understand what “single malt” means and instead rely on branding and marketing when it comes to choosing their bottles. Therefore, any changes to definitions, it could be argued, should be about enhancing the quality and reputation of English whisky, not about aligning too closely with traditional Scotch practices. Meanwhile, some producers are calling for even stricter controls within the English sector. Paul Abbott, founder of Grasmere Distillery, has advocated for an elevated standard. Speaking to the spirits business, he suggests that if anything, English whisky should aim to be more stringent than Scotch whisky, ensuring it remains an enduring product in its own right. For Abbott, this is about maintaining consistent quality in a still-new industry, known for its innovation and passion. The application is set to shape the industry for years to come – regardless of the outcome. The future of English whisky may well depend on finding the perfect balance between tradition and flexibility; respecting the heritage of Scotch while boldly staking out a new identity for the English product.