Malbec, with a history in Argentina dating back to the mid-1800s, has become synonymous with the country. But does the grape variety still reign supreme among modern winemakers? Eloise Feilden finds out.
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Mauricio Palacios, general manager of Doña Paula, says the link between Argentina and this red grape variety is beyond doubt. “In reality, it would be a Malbec that represents Argentina and its vineyards,” he says.
Winemakers are undoubtedly grateful for the success that the grape variety has brought to the country. Rachael Pogmore, wine buyer – Americas and Australasia at Enotria & Coe, says: “The Malbec evolution is really what’s brought Argentina to the forefront of success in the wine industry.”
But are producers still as dedicated to Malbec as they have been in the past, or are they moving towards pastures new?
According to data shared by Wines of Argentina, Malbec made up 23% of the total plantings in the country in 2020. By 2023, plantings had increased to 25%, suggesting that the grape is still just as relevant as in the past.
Indeed, according to Pogmore, producers are as passionate as ever about their icon grape. “They don’t want Malbec to lose its relevance,” she says, “especially when the likes of Chile are pushing Carmenere as their icon grape, and also you’ve got Uruguay now on the horizon really pushing Tannat.”
Instead, Pogmore says Malbec’s role is evolving. “A lot of the growers are trying to find ways to expand that further, so how do they keep Malbec relevant? How do they keep moving forward?”
The answer to these questions is to focus on terroir and regionality. Malbec is grown in regions from Salta all the way down to Patagonia, which demonstrates “the variance that you get within the Malbec grape”, she says. “That’s really what I’m seeing in regards to how they push Malbec to the next level, so that consumers who know Malbec, who trust the grape and will always pick a bottle off the shelf, will trade up into something a bit more premium or slightly different.”
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Pushing Malbec even further is Viña Concha y Toro’s Argentinian producer Trivento, which has pioneered Malbec-based white wines. “We are committed to continuing the development of white Malbec in our main markets,” says Silvina Barros, the brand’s head of marketing. “Creating a new category is never easy, and it requires more than just a year’s work,” she says. The brand is working to establish white Malbec in international markets, integrating it into cocktails to expand its drinking occasions.
Information from this article first appeared in a wider feature on Argentine wine published in the February issue of The Drinks Business. Read more at our website.