Can’t Travel to ‘The White Lotus’? Then Pair Classic Thai Dishes with Wine at Home

If you’ve noticed yourself craving Thai cuisine more often than usual, it could be The White Lotus effect, with all eyes on Thailand in the latest installment of the popular murder mystery series. And while this season hasn’t honed in on any specific aspect of Thai food or drink culture—yet? One hopes?— the predictably high-strung cast sure is drinking a lot of wine.

Thai food is nothing if not intense, with acidity, salt, sweetness, umami and oftentimes spice turned all the way up, all at once. Conventional wine wisdom would suggest an off-dry white as a perfect pairing for anything exhibiting that level of heat, however somms in Thai restaurants can’t exactly throw a Mosel Riesling at every dish and call it a day. 

Tempering the heat isn’t always what guests want when it comes to enjoying Thai food, anyway. “I don’t necessarily want to dial down the physical sensation of spicy Thai food, because it’s one of the iconic characteristics of it,” says Jove Tripp-Thompson, sommelier at New York’s Bangkok Supper Club. “That thinking has really opened the door for me to being open to exploring selections beyond off-dry whites and light-bodied reds.” 

Dry whites, bold reds and even some iconic dessert wines can also come to the table when Thai food is served.

We spoke to three sommeliers in Thai restaurants for their well-practiced takes on pairing wine with nine classic Thai dishes.

Pad Thai with Chenin Blanc

Considered by many to be the standard bearer for Thai food, or at least the starting point for those new to the cuisine, sweet, sour and savory pad Thai calls for something that meets it on multiple levels. “I like a Chenin Blanc option for its aromatics, maybe from South Africa,” says Tripp-Thompson. “I want to add a little bit of honey. I want to add a little bit of rich fruitiness to go with the savoriness of pad Thai.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Sadie Family 2021 Mev. Kirsten Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch)

Coming from old vines planted in 1905-1920, this Chenin is layered and structured. There is a rich bouquet of white flowers, dried fruit and spices on the nose. The textured palate shows depth, offering lime, ginger, apricot and chamomile flavors that extend the delightful finish. It’s vibrant and has a long life ahead. 94 Points — Jesica Vargas $230 Wainscott Main Wine & Spirits

Som Tum (Green Papaya Salad) with Moscato d’Asti

Not an average fruit salad by any means, underripe papaya meets chilli, lime, peanuts and fish sauce for a dish that is more tart and way more spicy than fruity. 

“For this I would go off-dry, like a Moscato d’Asti,” says Phuengthum Khathipphathee, sommelier at Bangkok’s Michelin-starred Restaurant Potong. “Something a little bit floral and fizzy,” she adds, which can lift the delicate fruit flavors behind the dish’s complexity and heat.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2023 Vigna Senza Nome Moscato (Moscato d’Asti)

A near flawless combination of fresh and vivid aromas of white peach and green apples, this Moscato d’Asti shines with backing notes of mint and lemongrass. The palate is bright and refreshing with candied lemon zest, lemon verbena and jasmine, all the while being in such great balance that the sweetness is an afterthought. Pure joy in a glass. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Jeff Porter $25 Flatiron Wine & Spirits