A Spanish breakthrough in low-alcohol winemaking

Against a backdrop of duty hikes, a new, non-dealcoholised white wine from Spain has been described as a "gift to the UK wine industry" by one Master of Wine. The post A Spanish breakthrough in low-alcohol winemaking appeared first on The Drinks Business.

Feb 9, 2025 - 21:53

A Spanish breakthrough in low-alcohol winemaking

Against a backdrop of duty hikes, a new, non-dealcoholised white wine from Spain has been described as a "gift to the UK wine industry" by one Master of Wine.

Six days ago, the much-dreaded alcohol duty changes took effect, sending ripples across the UK wine industry. From 1 February, businesses and consumers alike are grappling with a tax hike exceeding £175 million as new excise duty rates take hold, coinciding with the end of the so-called wine easement. The Treasury's overhaul of wine taxation is squarely aimed at bottles between 11.5% and 14.5% alcohol, a category that accounts for a staggering 85% of all UK wine sales. This shift introduces a labyrinthine structure of 30 separate duty charges within this narrow band. The result? An unequivocal increase in prices for Britain’s 33 million wine consumers. A 14.5% red, for instance, will see duty jump from £2.67 to £3.21 per bottle—a hefty 20% rise. Including the increases from August 2023, duty on the same bottle will have soared by 44%, or 98p, in just 18 months. The reality is inescapable: the cost of enjoying a decent bottle at home has risen markedly.

A silver lining for lower-alcohol wines?

With that in mind, an intriguing innovation was unveiled on Monday (03 February) at Barcelona Wine Week. Sarah-Jane Evans MW and Andrea Miró Rafales, project manager for Nakens, introduced Spain's first dry wine at 9% alcohol, non-dealcoholised and endorsed by a Denominación de Origen (DO). Parellada, a grape typically blended into Cava rather than bottled alone, was the focus here. "There is no early harvest to do this. We harvest in September because that’s the best time for the grape," said Miró. "We are just listening to the variety," she continued, adding that the grape’s naturally low sugar content allows for a wine that remains true to itself without the need for dealcoholisation. Sarah-Jane Evans contextualised this within the broader trend: "We are in a world where lots of people are trying all sorts of things to dealcoholise." Indeed, the UK is experiencing a surge of interest in low-alcohol options. "We have a very strong movement for low alcohol in the UK," she added. The DO currently mandates a minimum of 9% ABV, but Evans raised a pertinent question: "Can we convince the DO to go lower? To 7.5% or 8%?" For Miró, the potential for this category is clear: "You can share a bottle at lunch with a friend and still be able to go to work afterwards."

A new chapter for Parellada

Nakens is produced by the Jordi Miró winery in collaboration with the Agrícola Corbera d'Ebre cooperative. The project stemmed not from an attempt to create a low-alcohol wine, but rather from a desire to champion Parellada. "We weren’t looking to make an alcohol-free wine, but rather to promote the use of Parellada," said Miró. Historically overlooked, the variety’s naturally low sugar content has now become its greatest asset. As Miró discovered, the key to crafting this wine lay in allowing Parellada to reach its optimal ripeness while maintaining its naturally low sugar levels. "What had made it an abandoned variety now makes it original." The resulting wine is fresh, light and dynamic, with all the characteristics of a still wine but at just 9% ABV.

A regulatory hurdle overcome

The success of Nakens, however, was not guaranteed. Both the Catalan Institute of Vine and Wine (INCAVI) and the DO Terra Alta initially hesitated, as regulations did not previously allow for such a low-alcohol wine to be classified within the DO system. "We justified very well that it was not a question of dealcoholisation, but that the plant itself no longer has so much sugar," explained Miró. Eventually, after rigorous evaluation, the project was granted DO status — a landmark moment. This signals a potential turning point in how the wine industry approaches low-alcohol wines. Nakens is the first of its kind, but it will not be the last. As dealcoholisation continues to present technological and financial hurdles for many wineries, the natural solution offered by Parellada suggests a new path forward.