Filippo Bartolotta offers his assessment of the Tuscan wines showcased at last month's Anteprime Toscane, and picks his personal favourites.
As with every February, hundreds of international journalist flocked to Tuscany to attend the Anteprime Toscane, the largest on-trade event to showcase the en-primeur of the region’s most important DOCs and DOCGS.
Anteprime Nobile di Montepulciano
This year, the week started in the town of Montepulciano with one of the most exciting Anteprime Nobile di Montepulciano in memory. Gathered in the temple of San Biagio, a Renaissance masterpiece by Giuliano da Sangallo, we attended the official launch of the Pievi, a system consisting of 13 subzones that can be showcased on the label of wines following a strict set of regulations. Giving up international grapes to focus on 100% Sangiovese is the first major change, and that makes a huge difference in an appellation whose identity has long been blurred by anonymously dark, brooding wines that draw more resemblance to Super Tuscans than racy and pure Sangiovese. Lower yields and 36 months ageing are also mandatory.
The results in the glass are evident right away: in the tasting that followed the presentation held by Andrea Lonardi MW, the majority of the Pievi wines displayed more delicacy and harmony than the Nobile without a mention from the warm 2022 and solid 2021 vintages. Versions from Le Caggiole, Valardegna and Cervognano stood out, with the former two subzones yielding very polished and ethereal – at times even Burgundian – wines, while the latter is characterised by a deeper and more tannic style with plenty of potential for long-term cellaring.
Chianti Classico Collection
In Florence for an edition of Chianti Classico Collection in which the usual Black Rooster logo turned green to showcase the appellation’s commitment to sustainability – more than 53% of its vineyard area is now farmed organically. While that is essential to ensure a low environmental impact, it also caused major issues in 2023, when monsoon-like spring rainfall led to massive mildew attacks. More than 30% of the crop was lost, and the overall quality was partially prejudiced too.
Even though the best producers still managed to make excellent Chianti Classico, many wines on show proved slightly green, unbalanced or just too simple. On other hand, the late-released 2022s show how well this scorching hot vintage was managed, and the 2021 Gran Selezione wines are the best ever made. Producers have finally given up excess oak and extraction, which used to be a serious problem until a couple vintages ago, to make examples that are transparent to their UGA (additional geographic unit) of origin.
Chianti Lovers
In the middle of the week, Chianti Lovers and Rosso Morellino allowed a deep dive into broader Chianti category, and the best Chianti beyond Chianti Classico come from subzones like Colli Fiorentini, Montespertoli and Rufina. Morellino di Scansano has gone through a major qualitative upheaval in recent years: forget the light and slightly generic wines of the past. While not as razor-sharp and edgy as Chianti Classico, the best 2024 Morellino wines are bright, plump and deliciously fruit-forward. They convey the warmth of Maremma without being heavy or jammy.
L'Altra Toscana
L’Altra Toscana offers a mixed bag of wines from different appellations and areas within the region. A large portion of them belong to the broad – but especially successful – Toscana IGT, which includes historical Super Tuscans, as well as new wines proving that the category is still far from being outdated. Richness, power and fruit intensity are the calling cards of these mostly Bordeaux-inspired wines, but successful ones also show brighter acidity and greater drinkability than ever before.
Cortona Syrah was the other star of this show: this area on the border of Umbria could be considered the Italian equivalent to the Northern Rhône. Influence from the nearby Lake Trasimeno means the wines are never too bold. In fact, they exude varietal spiciness and show a restrained, savoury and racy character on the palate. Cuculaia by Fabrizio Dionisio grabbed the most attention, but make sure not to miss Apice by Amerighi, or Polluce by Chiara Vinciarelli.
Valdarno di Sopra Anteprima
Last but not least, the first ever Valdarno di Sopra Anteprima shone a light on this little-known but very ancient appellation, already mentioned in the 1716 edict by Cosimo De Medici and housing a few cult producers that earned critics’ attention with their Supertuscans before starting to work on a local identity. Tucked between the Chianti mountains and the pre-Appennine, this is area is characterized by an extreme climate which shapes wines that are more exuberant and generous than those of neighbouring Chianti Classico but still retain excellent acidity, making them also cellar-worthy. The Valdarno di Sopra DOC is also the only fully organic appellation in Italy.
Even though regulations allow 44 different typologies, Sangiovese and Bordeaux blends spark the most interest. The whites are also starting to emerge: top-shelf Trebbiano Toscano, like Boggina by Petrolo or Vigna dell’Impero by Sette Ponti, have a rich and velvety texture, often enhanced by a little oak influence and accompanied by enlivening salinity. Orpicchio, a rare native white grape, gives lower-alcohol wines with laser-like acidity and an aromatic touch. Nearly abandoned until a few years ago, there’s currently one commercial example available for sale, but it may gain ground in the upcoming decades for its ability to defy heat and drought.
Tasting notes
Riecine – Chianti Classico 2023
An especially lively and bright rendition with subtle aromas of pressed flowers and balsam herbs, followed by a juicy and crunchy palate. Slim on the entry and then succulent and saline. Delicious right now, but also suitable for cellaring.
Cigliano di Sopra – Chianti Classico 2023
Sweeter on the nose than most wines from this vintage with a raspberry coulis and creme de cassis component intertwined with menthol and anise. Deliciously open-knit, but with plenty of underlying energy, leading to a refreshing orange peel finish.
Val delle Corti – Chianti Classico 2022
Darker and deeper than the 2023s, flint-inflected cherry mingles with dark forest floor and iron. Super bright on the entry and then smoother and fruitier, it’s complex, but also remarkably easy to drink.
Castell’in Villa – Chianti Classico Riserva 2019
A classically-styled Riserva with a mouthwatering combination of sour cherries and tertiary aromas. Complex but lively with succulent cherries to the core, allied to lovely salinity. Ultra-fine tannins support the overall structure and lead to a finish that makes you crave another sip.
Fontodi – Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Pastrolo 2021
A terrific new wine from a benchmark Chianti Classico winery. The fruit comes from Lamole, and it mixes this village’s typical floral elegance with richer and darker aromas of damp earth and tobacco, all wrapped in a subtle veil of oak. It requires a little cellaring as the tannins are slightly angular at the moment, but it’s really astonishing in terms of precision and aromatic finesse.
Riecine – Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Gittori 2021
Another knockout wine from Riecine, showing a richer profile than the 2023 Chianti Classico, but with the same sense of precision and firmness. Bright, lively but also concentrated, with a mouthwatering ferrous and blood orange finish, it is likely to drink well for decades.
Le Berne – Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021
Elegant and supple with some lavender and rose petals touches along cassis and blood orange. Imposing tannins counterweight the rich core of red fruits, shaping an elegantly austere mouthfeel with a long, steely and saline finish.
Il Molinaccio – Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Valardegna 2021
Super elegant, more floral and balsamic than fruity, with some eucalyptus and five spice touches. Ultra-light tannins and a medium-bodied palate with a long and airy finish.
Dionisio – Cortona Syrah Cuculaia 2021
Very northern-like, with this gorgeous display of nutmeg, cinnamon and eucalyptus over cherries in syrup and dark chocolate. Sweet and round but also fresh thanks to crisp acids and almost steely salinity that tempers the long finish.
Fattoria Le Pupille – Morellino di Scansano 2024
Still a vat sample, but it’s impossible not fall in the love with the ultra-sweet red cherries framed by a whiff of garrigue. Inviting and approachable, this is the perfect wine for a barbecue.
Le Mortelle - Poggio alle Nane Maremma Toscana 2022
From coastal vineyards in Maremma, this Cabernet Franc-based Super Tuscan by the Antinori family is fresh and elegant with plenty of typical Franc leafiness allied to pressed flowers, pink pepper, and sweet blackcurrants. It’s concentrated, mouth-fillingly fruity, but also lively thanks to saline and herbal undertones that echo on the long finish.
Malenchini – Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2022
A textbook, food-friendly Sangiovese from hilly vineyards to the southeast of Florence. Dark and gamey on the nose, it then turns smoother on the palate, with good acidity balancing the medium-bodied mouthfeel and following through with a clean and inviting finish.
Il Carnasciale – Valdarno di Sopra ottantadue Sangiovese 2022
An ultra-juicy Sangiovese aged only in stainless steel from an iconic Super Tuscan producer. Typically Valdarno in its slightly syrupy fruit, which adds to the juiciness and approachability of the palate. It’s almost halfway between a good Beaujolais and a classic Tuscan wine.
Tenuta Sette Ponti – Valdarno di Sopra Sangiovese Vigna dell’Impero 2019
A radically different and more ambitious take on Valdarno di Sopra. This has almost Brunello-esque earthy power and mid-palate concentration yet the tannins are especially polished and velvety. Richer flavours of sweet cherry make for an ample and inviting finish.
