This Affordable Crisp White Is a ‘Well-Kept Secret That Overdelivers’

As soon as patio (or sidewalk) seating season commences, by-the-glass wine lists shed their winter layers for the usual suspects like Prosecco, Sauvignon Blanc and, of course, rosé. If you’re lucky, that list also includes Muscadet—also known as Melon de Bourgogne, the grape used to make it. The light-bodied, crisp and bracingly acidic wine is slowly leaving behind its underdog status thanks to its food-friendliness and affordability.

“Muscadet is the champion of lightness without losing character. It’s low in alcohol, but high in freshness. That means you can drink it under the sun without it knocking you flat,” says Cody Pruitt, owner of Libertine, a modern French bistro in New York City. “Muscadet’s hallmark is razor-sharp acidity, but not enough to take the enamel off your teeth or give you heartburn. It cleanses the palate, refreshes the senses and makes you want another sip. Perfect when the heat has dulled your appetite for richer wines.” 

While Melon de Bourgogne (which goes by Melon, if you’re on a first-name basis) is a grape traditionally grown in the coastal Atlantic Pays-Nantais region of France’s Loire Valley, American producers are also seeing the wine’s appeal. 

In the Willamette Valley, Johan Vineyards makes a Melon de Bourgogne that Sam Gamble, beverage director for Atlanta’s Yebo, the Cape and Lion’s Head Private Club, says is a “massive hit” with guests. 

“It just delivers outstanding quality and complexity for its price, making it an easy choice to serve by the glass and introduce to guests who might not know the grape,” he says. Meanwhile, in Santa Barbara, Lieu Dit Winery’s Melon de Bourgogne shows off the grape’s salinity in full force—there’s even an oyster illustration on the label.

Recession-Proof Pricing

David Skurnik, founder of New York City-based importer Skurnik Wines & Spirits, imports wines from several producers in the Loire, including Domaine Batard Langelier and Domaine de la Geraudrie. He says that even with a 10% tariff added to import costs, it remains easy to find Muscadets from family-owned domaines that farm organically or biodynamically for under $15 a glass on a wine list. 

“With economic uncertainty in the air, it is a category that is logical to garner more attention from buyers and drinkers alike, even with a 10% tariff added to the import costs,” he adds.

“The Melon de Bourgogne grape is naturally high-yielding, and the winemaking process generally avoids expensive techniques like extensive oak aging, helping to keep prices low without sacrificing quality,” explains Ryan Gotti, lead sommelier at Bourbon Steak in New York City, where Muscadet is currently on offer by the glass. 

Refreshing with Complex Minerality

For guests who might be unfamiliar with the varietal, Gotti draws comparisons to wines such as Albariño, Picpoul and Assyrtiko, which share key characteristics like bright acidity, mineral complexity and a subtle saline finish. Meanwhile, Coco loves pouring Muscadet for guests who are used to paying much more for a mineral-driven white Burgundy.

Skurnik says that Muscadet wines are also an especially easy next step for Sauvignon Blanc fans, because both are high-acid white varieties, though Muscadet tends to be less grassy and tropical relative to many of the Sauvignon Blancs in the U.S. market today.

“‘Wet stones’ is always one of the wine descriptors that people love to poke fun at,” he adds. “A good Muscadet is one of the clearest examples of this phenomenon in a glass, and I think people actually do appreciate that!” 

Not ‘Just a Simple White Wine’

Like most wines, Muscadet is not a monolith. The words “sur lie” (French for “on the lees”) on the label indicate that the wine has undergone a period of aging in contact with the dead yeast cells from fermentation, much like Champagne. As a result, these Muscadets have what Luigi Coco, head sommelier at Paranza restaurant at Atlantis Paradise Island, describes as “a subtle roundness and texture that elevates it beyond just a simple white wine.” 

Pruitt notes that because Muscadet is still flying under the radar and doesn’t have the same name recognition as, say, Chablis or Sancerre, it’s possible to get serious quality, sur lie aged wines for a “fraction of the price” of better-known white wines. 

“It’s affordable, but not in a ’cheap’ way,” he says. “It’s more like a well-kept secret that overdelivers…Flavor-wise, there’s nothing funky, oaky or confusing. It’s straight-shooting and unpretentious.”

A Prime Pairing for Summer Dishes

One of the simplest explanations for why Muscadet and summertime go hand-in-hand is a classic warm weather happy hour offering: oysters, but more broadly, raw seafood towers. 

At the Carlyle, a Rosewood hotel in New York City, wine director Jill Mott serves Muscadet by the glass and by the bottle, encouraging guests to let the wine’s signature acidity play the same role as a generous squeeze of lemon juice on a freshly shucked oyster. “Muscadet is a reflection of the sea and an anchor for briny notes [as well as] light aromatics,” she says. 

Ultimately, it’s a case of ‘what grows together, goes together’—oysters and shellfish are key parts of the regional cuisine in Pays-Nantais, so it’s only natural that the wine is a harmonious pairing.

At Majordomo in Los Angeles, lead sommelier David Cortes sees the sky (not just the sea) as the limit for pairing Muscadet, and enjoys it with chicken or tofu. “The acidity and freshness in this wine doesn’t overpower the flavors of the food that you are enjoying, whether it is for brunch, lunch or dinner,” he says. 

More White Wine Coverage

• We explain why Albariño has become the shining star of crisp whites. 
• Once forgotten, Viognier is back in the spotlight. Consider trying these top-rated bottles. 
• You should know these two Chilean regions that are producing next-level Sauvignon Blanc. 
• If you like Pinot Grigio, it’s high time you try Picpoul. 

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