Pinot Grigio Is So Much More Than You Think It Is
Produced in a wide range of styles in Italy and beyond, these top-rated Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris bottles belong on your radar. [...] Read More... The post Pinot Grigio Is So Much More Than You Think It Is appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.
There is far more to Pinot Grigio than the bland, bulk-produced bottles would have you believe. In fact, the fresh white wine is more exciting than it has ever been, and not just in Italy. From Alsace to California, the varietal (also known as Pinot Gris in French and Grauburgunder in German) is producing compelling, textured whites worth talking about, in a broad range of styles.
“Pinot Grigio is in a fascinating place these days; it’s a chameleon,” says Master Sommelier Josh Nadel, who manages the wine program at the Brooklyn restaurant Leuca, located inside the William Vale. “On one hand, we see the tried-and-true style that has made Pinot Grigio so popular: fairly neutral, easy to drink and agreeable, if not forgettable.”
What gets Nadel really excited, however, are the Pinot Grigios “produced as a counterpoint, with greater ambition and artisanal goals,” he says. “Some of these growers include skin contact, others aim for site specificity and others employ progressive viticulture, low yields and novel or historical winemaking and aging practices.”
Since the grape’s introduction to Italy via Piedmont in the 19th century, the bulk of Pinot Grigio has been produced in Venice, in large volumes. The richest and most prized versions, however, can be found in Friuli, where the traditional “ramato” vinification style lends the wine a copper hue. In the heights of Alto Adige, a section of the Dolomites bordering Switzerland and Austria, the aromatic Pinot Grigios are known for finesse and complexity.
“To many, Pinot Grigio may seem to fit into one easy category of light white wine, but that is far from the reality,” says Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Jeff Porter, who reviews Italian wines. “Exploring its diversity is what makes these wines so special and unique, so if you want crisp and vibrant or an elegant, copper-hued ramato, Pinot Grigio is here for you.”
Pinot Grigio vs. Pinot Gris: What’s the Difference?
Pinot Grigio is a darkly colored, gray-blue grape that is a mutation of Pinot Noir. It’s called “Pinot Gris” in some parts of the world, like France’s Alsace region, where you can expect elegant, richly colored versions with structure and body. The name thing can get confusing: In Oregon, the grape is called Pinot Gris, while in neighboring California, it’s often called Pinot Grigio. In short, its name can be “pretty regional,” says Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Matt Kettmann, who reviews wines from the Central Coast and Southern California. In California, at least, “the warmer areas tend to call it ‘Grigio,’ while the coastal regions tend to use ‘Gris.’”
The grapes, of course, are the same, but differences in growing conditions and winemaking styles impact the wines tremendously. Generally, Pinot Gris is produced in cooler regions (Alsace, Oregon) and tend to be fuller-bodied, in contrast with the crisp acidity that the Pinot Grigios of, say, Friuli Colli Orientali and Trentino-Alto Adige, are known for.
To sum it up, Pinot Grigio has more range than it gets credit for. “The oceans of innocuous, neutral white which have stigmatized this varietal for two generations of wine drinkers,” says Nadel. “There is a lot more that can be done with this grape.”
Trentino-Alto Adige
Right on the border of Austria, Italy’s northernmost wine region is a high-elevation Pinot Grigio paradise. “I love the balance between richness and freshness found in Alto Adige,” says Porter. Also called Südtirol (South Tyrol in English), Alto Adige boasts some of the most vibrant, elegantly structured Pinot Grigio in Italy.
“Although white wine is produced in a low percentage here, the quality of the Alpine fruit is spectacular,” says Tonya Pitts, a Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
GRAWÜ 2022 Pinot Grigio (Vigneti delle Dolomiti)
In a brilliant shade of pale cherry, this wine captivates the eye. The aromas unfold with pure and beautiful notes of baked red apple skin, spice, wild herbs, and gently warmed cherries. Delicate rose nuances intertwine with fine, textured tannins, leading to a palate lifted by tartness and electric acidity. Culminating with defined mineral finish, truly exceptional. Drink Now – 2040. Editors’ Choice. 95 points — Jeff Porter $72 The Wise Old Dog
Nals Margreid 2022 Punggl Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige)
This wine opens with style and force, making its presence known. Enticing aromas of green apple and citrus, unfold gradually, revealing a complex and intriguing profile as magnolia and sweet spices waft in and out of the glass. The structured palate offers a delightful mix of fruit and non-fruit notes, where zesty citrus and perfectly ripe apples meet intriguing crushed stone nuances. Harmonized by a taut acidity that acts as spotlight on the beauty of this wine. Drink Now – 2040. Cellar Selection. 94 points — J.P. $30 Wine.com
Cantina Tramin 2022 Unterebner Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige)
Opening like a symphony of mixed fruits with aromas of ripe peach and pear, intertwined with a plethora of honeysuckle, this wine bursts out of the glass, yet with grace and balance. The richness and forwardness, accentuated by prominent spice notes, offer a bold presence. With great structure and a pleasant pithy finish, the palate dances with swirling citrus flavors, promising a fulfilling aging potential. Drink Now – 2035. 93 points — J.P. $43 Wine.com
Castelfeder 2022 15 Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige)
An aromatic journey with scents of tree-ripened green apple, warmed pear, and fresh mountain herbs, this wine captures one’s attention immediately. On the palate, it unfolds with refreshingly citrus and peach flavors that culminate with a stony minerality on the lifted finish. Best Buy. 92 points— J.P. $24 Argonaut
Friuli Colli Orientali
Within the northeastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, the steep vineyards of Friuli Colli Orientali are known for producing Pinot Grigio with great complexity and aromas. Its vicinity to the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea creates a favorable microclimate: The mountains shield vines from harsh winter storms, while the sea sends in warm breezes that encourage ripening.
“These wines are bright and aromatic, with fresh herbs, buoyant mid palate and higher acidity,” says Pitts. “They are great as a sipper or with snacks.”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Livio Felluga 2020 Curubella Pinot Grigio (Friuli Colli Orientali)
The moment you lift the glass, the nobleness of Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris) is known. This is the true essence of the variety, with a cascade of aromas that can make one shudder: baked apples layered with spice and drizzled with warmed honey as pressed flowers accompany, roasted almonds crumbled on top. Subtle mineral notes dip in and out with each whiff. The palate is an ocean crashing upon the palate with wave after wave of flavors fresh apples, then roasted almonds, sea salt and fresh herbs, then crushed stone all the while lifted by a consistent acidity that neither peaks nor ebbs. A wine for now or later, there will always be smiles. 95 points — J.P. $60 JJ Buckley
Fantinel 2022 Sun Goddess Pinot Grigio Ramato Pinot Grigio (Friuli)
This wine has come into its own and each vintage the wine gets better. Opening with aromas of wild cherries, pink roast, red-veined peaches and a touch of honey. Freshly cut apples define the palate with hints of dried apricot as the rounded texture gives volume to the wine but is balanced by at the right moment by crisp acidity. 91 points — J.P. $20 Fine Wine & Good Spirits
Volpe Pasini 2022 Grivò Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli)
Greeting the nose with a tapestry of ripe Anjou pear and wet river stones, this wine offering lifts out of the glass. A palate that dances between vivacious lemon zest and a flinty minerality and embodies the crispness of Friuli’s windswept vineyards. Best Buy. 91 points — J.P. $23 Wine Solutions
La Roncaia 2022 Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli Colli Orientali)
Alsace
The majority of France’s Pinot Gris is grown in Alsace, the picturesque northeastern region bordering Switzerland and Germany. Here, the varietal is continuing to gain ground, winning fans with super-rich wines of varying sweetness levels that pair harmoniously with food.
“Pinot Gris from Alsace is having a quiet revolution—equally compelling as a textured, dry white or a lush or off-dry pour,” says Aleks Zecivic, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large who reviews wines from the region. “And with skin contact, it steps into wilder territory: grippy, structured, sometimes flirting with the soul of a light red.”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Trimbach 2017 Reserve Pinot Gris (Alsace)
Joseph Cattin 2021 Orange Pinot Gris (Alsace)
Gustave Lorentz 2021 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace)
Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2000 Herrenweg Sélection de Grains Nobles Pinot Gris (Alsace)
California
It’s a beautiful time to drink California Pinot Grigio (and Pinot Gris). Kettmann is particularly excited about “the increasing interest in leaving Pinot Gris grapes on their skins to bring texture, color and more flavor to the glass are revealing a much wider range of what this variety can be.”
He adds, “Indeed, given its ‘gray’ name and mottled skin color, it’s quite likely that historic Pinot Gris bottling did show more texture and color than the clear versions that are dominant today. Let history lead, and give that wine more character!”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Massican 2023 Pinot Grigio (California)
Meadowcroft 2023 Nelson Ranch Pinot Gris (Mendocino)
This wine is bright, zippy with aromas of citrus blossoms, fresh herbs, and notes of acacia honey on the nose. The flavors on the palate are White peach, apricot, orange peel, fennel intertwined with mineral, and a long dry briny finish. Pair with Fresh Caught Red Snapper. 93 points — T.P. $28 Napa Valley Winery Exchange
Ferrari-Carano 2023 Pinot Grigio (California)
This wine is fresh, zippy, with aromas of citrus, guava, cantaloupe, and mineral on the nose. The flavors on the palate are Meyer lemon, Mandarin orange, pineapple, dried herbs, good acidity, and a dry crisp finish. Pair with fried calamari. 93 points — T.P. $17 Wine.com
Oregon
Given that it’s a mutation of the state’s treasured Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris has long been the leading white wine grape in Oregon. Enthusiasm for the wine, however, has lagged–until recently. Oregon Pinot Gris is currently experiencing a major comeback. Expect versatile white wines that are well-suited to seafood, and many with excellent aging potential.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Antiquum Farm 2022 Aurosa Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)
This producer’s dedication to Pinot Gris made with intention deserves the utmost respect. The Aurosa’s peach, yeasty sourdough and saline aromas are like an afternoon baking in the kitchen. The wine tastes like a pear tart laced with cinnamon and ginger, and those flavors are embraced by a creamy texture. Editors’ Choice. 94 points — Michael Alberty $41 Fine Wine & Good Spirits
Artist Block 2022 Yummy Yummy Yummy Pinot Gris (Yamhill-Carlton)
The wine’s aromas of peach crumble and ginger lead to flavors of tart red raspberries, pink grapefruit and cashews. This is one vivacious and lively mouthfeel, with the kind of acidity that will make you want to climb a tree and hang upside down. Yummy Yummy Yummy is for everyone who thought Betty was cooler than Veronica. Editors’ Choice. 93 points — M.A. $51 Artist Block
Vincent Wine Company 2023 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)
Anderson Family Vineyard 2021Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills)
When you make Pinot Gris with intention, this is the quality of wine that is possible. Made with 100% native yeast fermented in stainless steel with 15 months on lees and no malolactic fermentation, this wine is loaded with brisk acidity and aromas and flavors of lemon, lime, apple, rosemary and butter. Load up. Editors’ Choice. 92 points — M.A. $40 Anderson Family Vineyard
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