Saint Laurent Fall Men’s Collection 2025: Anthony Vacarello’s Seductive Contrast Unveiled

Creative Director Anthony Vacarello presented the Saint Laurent Fall Men’s 2025 collection during Paris Couture Week amongst stylists, editors, and famous friends of the house like Iris Law, Zoe Kravitz, and more. The exquisite collection celebrates and hones in on the spirit of the iconic New York City photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, whose stylistic approach at the height of New York in the 80s inspired much of Vacarello’s direction. Looking back and pulling inspiration from the house’s classic wardrobe introduced by Yves Saint Laurent with his Haute Couture or Rive Gauche collection, Vacarello saw indescribable parallels yet also distinctive oppositions that, in turn, could create a symbolic fusion for Saint Laurent’s latest collection.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

A productive tension between temperamental opposites has been a hallmark of the Saint Laurent aesthetic since the house’s founding. Vaccarello continued highlighting this notion throughout his latest collection with contrast-defining pieces – counterintuitive elements that inject a surprising sense of fluidity into the collection’s concise tailoring of classic menswear elements like blazers, trench coats, and trousers. Pops of bright colors are rare but are woven throughout in elevated knitwear. “A menacing, seductive elegance informs both the silhouette and the individual pieces,” according to the collection notes. The collection continues consistently throughout the unexpected pairings with feather-trimmed coats and sharp double-breasted jackets intrepidly accessorized with high-wader leather boots that render the brand’s signature sense of ambiguity.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

Vacarello explores the concept of prevailing polarity through somber and light tones, soft and firm textures, and voluminous and tapered fabrics through the Saint Laurent Fall Men’s collection. This notion extends to the show’s backdrop at the Bourse de Commerce, with minimalist lines and cool surfaces juxtaposed with rich, weathered parquet flooring evoking the opulence that salons of the past typically gave. The setting’s large crystal chandeliers nod to the Intercontinental Hotel’s ballroom, where the house presented all of its Haute Couture collections between 1975 and 2001. 

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