Maria Grazia Chiuri Pays Homage To Dior’s Roots With The Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection

Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri recently unveiled her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection for Dior during Paris Fashion Week at Jardin des Tuileries.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

The latest collection presents a journey through time as the Chiuri pays tribute and pulls inspiration from the former Dior Creative Director from 1989 to 1996, Gianfranco Ferré. Chiuri taps into Dior’s heritage and archives to explore a pluralistic dialogue with the history of fashion. A standout collection for the Creative Director, this collection hones in on what Dior does well and aligns with its foundational values while continuing to evolve the brand for the modern Dior woman in a fluid and authentic manner. 

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Revisiting the memories and gestures that belong to Dior’s history, with this collection Chiuri aims to demonstrate how the clothes serves as a receptacle that affirms cultural, aesthetic, and social codes. “Temporalities sediment the creations in a continuous interplay of inspirations welcoming the imprint of bodies and modern desires. Each collection is a construction, a project steeped in fantasy. An awareness. An invitation to use fashion to be yourself,” the collection notes recall. 

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

The colors shift from dark to light, models descend down the runway one by one in cascading chiffon blouses adorned with lace and matching mini skirts. Deconstructed leather vests juxtapose a sheer lace blouse paired with a coordinating set of leather pants playing on themes of femininity and masculinity. Oversized wool coats closed with a belt provide a sensible sophistication while tailored, cinched blazers arrive with button-down, ruffle-adorned tops and a pair of midnight velvet trousers. Ruffles, ruffles, and more ruffles. In true Maria Grazia Chiuri fashion, corsets are constant along the ruffles in various fabrications, from lace to cotton to wool. 

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Throughout the show, Maria Grazia Chiuri weaves notable influences from the house’s past collections, which are seen throughout, interacting like the coveted return of the iconic J’adore Dior t-shirt famously introduced by John Galliano during the early aughts. Another restored reference is the cut-out and applique embroidery offset by technical jackets—like dematerialized crinolines and black velvet ribbons attached to baroque pearls, bringing a beautiful texture to skirts and dresses.

Synonymous with lightness, the transparency finishing the shirts contrasts with the matte black felt of the hyper-structured coats that line the curves of the body. Shoulders are rounded to shape the silhouette, and masculine jackets are combined with bustiers. A black tailcoat takes ownership, while lace collars make themselves known throughout. Utilitarian pieces, such as raincoats, are part of the ensemble and illuminate a daily life that takes us back to the heart of Dior’s history. 

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