People have been making wine on both sides of the Hudson River for roughly 300 years, and the region is home to America’s oldest continually operating winery (Brotherhood Winery, founded in 1982). The sunny, humid Hudson River Region AVA in New York State enjoys some temperature moderating effects from the river, but more significantly, the region’s steep valley channels in maritime weather from the Atlantic.

The AVA has been pivotal in the development of French hybrids like Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Cayuga White and Baco Noir, as many small-scale producers now champion these once-maligned yet historically significant wines. (After Prohibition, as the Finger Lakes and Long Island rebounded with European varietals, “the Hudson River region survived Prohibition by making medicinal and sacramental wines,” writes Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Christina Pickard.)

In the late 1600s, French Protestant settlers tried (and failed) to plant vinifera vines, but now varieties like Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc thrive here. Within the region, there is a growing movement to identify heritage hybrid grapes that are well-suited to the changing climate and more resistant to the fungal diseases that plague humid region.