Germany’s Wine Scene Has Transformed Well Beyond Riesling
Germany’s Wine Scene Has Transformed Well Beyond Riesling Electrifying Pinot Noirs, a growing natural wine movement and classic Rieslings spotlight Germany’s remarkable terroir By Aleks ZecevicWine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Austria, Germany, France (Alsace, Jura/Savoie, Vin de France), Armenia, Czech Republic, Moldova, Serbia, Slovakia and Turkey. Germany is easy to [...]
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Apr 24, 2025 - 21:43
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Images Courtesy of Vino Central, Tomorrows Wine, and Tannico
Germany’s Wine Scene Has Transformed Well Beyond Riesling
Electrifying Pinot Noirs, a growing natural wine movement and classic Rieslings spotlight Germany’s remarkable terroir
By Aleks Zecevic Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Austria, Germany, France (Alsace, Jura/Savoie, Vin de France), Armenia, Czech Republic, Moldova, Serbia, Slovakia and Turkey.
Germany is easy to overlook until you’re clinging to a cliff above the Mosel, sipping something that crackles on the palate.
Riesling still rules, razor-sharp and alive. But Pinot Noir has muscled into the spotlight and Silvaner’s playing a hell of a supporting role. Natural wine showed up late—but it’s here now: pure, honest, unmistakably German. Tradition runs deep, but reinvention is never far behind.
The wines don’t always come easy. Precision may be the national cliché, but terroir sets it apart. It’s something you feel more than taste. Often austere at first, the right bottle at the right time is lightning in a glass.
Because of the climatic and geographic nuances within Germany’s 13 winemaking regions, it pays to know where to look. Most regions cling to the country’s west, where rivers, like the Rhine and Mosel, carve steep, cinematic vineyards. Just two—Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen—stray eastward, where wine feels like a whispered rumor. From the cliffs of the Mosel to Baden’s sun-drenched hills, this isn’t a greatest-hits kind of place. It’s a scratchy, unique mixtape filled with deep cuts and unusual bottlings that will delight experienced and new drinkers alike.
vineyards and church at Merl, Germany, in autumn / Getty Images
Weather Report
Germany still gets to call itself cool-climate, which is a rarity in a world on fire. The country’s continental setup means cold winters, hot summers and just enough chaos in between to keep winemakers on edge.
For decades, ripening was a gamble. Hence, the vines hug the rivers—the Rhine, Mosel and Ahr—where steep slopes soak up sun and catch reflections off the water.
However, in the late 1990s, climate change flipped the script. Suddenly, ripeness wasn’t the issue. Now it’s frost, hail, mildew, heat and even drought.
2024 was brutal—frost decimated Mosel parcels in the spring after bud break and yields swung wildly. But winemakers are hopeful. What’s left could be stunning.
Often austere at first, the right bottle at the right time is lightning in a glass.aleks zecevic, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
The 2023 vintage came in hot, literally. It was the fastest harvest in recent memory, with fruit racing toward ripeness. Yields were down, but the wines are focused, fruity and full of energy.
A dry, disease-free season marked the surprisingly generous 2022. The wines are ripe, charming and easy to enjoy.
Then there’s 2021: wet, wild and borderline biblical. Floods devastated the Ahr, but a golden autumn saved the rest. The wines are lean, sharp, built to last—and test your patience.
Trend Report
Germany is in the thick of a wine revolution. Over the past decade, dry Riesling has taken center stage, overtaking the sweet styles that once defined the country’s global image. Pinot Noir is rising as Riesling’s red counterpart, and the natural wine movement in the country is shaking up tradition in its own unfiltered way.
These shifts are part of a broader move to spotlight Germany’s remarkable terroir, letting grapes speak with clarity: sharp, mineral and deeply expressive.
Producers certified by the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) are leading the charge, introducing the Grosses Gewächs (translation: “Great Growths”) classification for dry wines from Grand Cru vineyards. Rebholz, Peter Lauer, Christmann and Peter Jakob Kühn are standout examples. These wines are layered and built for the table.
Most Grosses Gewächs Rieslings from VDP estates are released young and often feel that way. Made conservatively, many block malolactic fermentation, which would soften acidity, and see generous sulfur additions that slow evolution. These wines demand time. Five years is a minimum. Ten is the sweet spot, when structure and tension finally settle into something transcendent. A few exceptions—Odinstal, Schätzl and occasionally Schnaitmann—drink well sooner.
Meanwhile, natural wine has quietly fueled the dry wine revolution. With little to no sulfur, winemakers avoid residual sugar to prevent refermentation, pushing them toward dry styles by default. France, Italy and Austria led this charge for decades, but Germany has only recently joined.
In the hands of Rudi Trossen, Brand Brothers, Piri Naturel, Jakob Tennstedt and Shadowfolk, the wines are raw and transparent, letting terroir do the talking. Without interrupting malolactic fermentation, these bottles are softer, easier in their youth, but never flabby. It’s a quiet rebellion, reshaping the landscape.
While Riesling dominates, Spätburgunder is catching fire. Once overlooked, German Pinot now commands respect. The cool climate gives it an edge; the best growers give it soul. It’s no longer just Huber and Fürst. In the Ahr, Bertram-Baltes and Meyer-Näkel lead the way. Piri Naturel brings vibrancy in the Nahe. In Baden, Wasenhaus and Enderle & Moll craft reds with nerve and depth. And don’t skip the Mosel, which can produce some of the most ethereal Pinots on the planet, like the ones from Jonas Dostert.
The future of German wine is exciting. Dry Riesling will continue to be the flagship, but more balanced, as growers keep pushing limits. Pinot Noir will undoubtedly become more of a focal point. They’re only beginning to hit their stride, but the way things are going, Burgundy’s Pinot reign may not last forever.
Germany is taking its time with natural wine, ensuring the movement develops with the same precision that defines its wines. Don’t be surprised to see more small producers popping up, experimenting with old and new techniques to craft wines that feel as alive as the land itself.
Pinot Noir Grapes in Rheinhessen, Germany / Getty Images
What to Drink Right Now
Below, you’ll find a list of top bottles from Germany’s key regions—dry Rieslings with cutting minerality, Pinots that prove German reds are here to stay and natural wines pointing to where things are headed. And yes, there’s something for those with a sweet tooth, too, as no one does dessert wine better.
Mosel
Germany’s crown jewel, the Mosel is Riesling country, where off-dry and sweet styles shimmer with grace, and dry versions crackle with the tension of slate soils. The slate—gray, blue and red—reflects light like cut glass, catching the sun off the river. Pinot Noir, ethereal and rising, is the region’s quiet muse.
In the Terrassenmosel, winemaking flirts with madness—Madame Flock and Julien Renard’s eccentric bottlings mix with classics from Knebel and Heymann-Löwenstein. Rudi Trossen, a pioneer of natural wine in the region, sets the tone for many, while Florian Wecker of Jus Naturae, Petra Kujanpää of Shadowfolk and Jakob Tennstedt make some of the most compelling natural wines—not just in Germany, but beyond.
A gorgeous, delicate white, which dances on your palate gracefully, showing a great balance between its rustic and elegant sides. There is tension between its acidity and flavors of white raspberry, light papaya and lime notes. It is hard to put down, as this is very light, smooth and easy to drink, yet the complexity makes you scratch your head with each sip. —Aleks Zecevic
A striking Riesling that balances precision with the flair of artistic freedom. There is a flinty note which quickly gives way to a vibrant core of white raspberry, citrus zest, savory minerality. It’s incredibly well-constructed, with a focused acidity and a depth that speaks to both its origins and the careful winemaking behind it. A wine that will continue to unfold with age, showcasing the true potential of Riesling. You can drink it now, but patience will be rewarded. — A.Z.
This is packed with spice, showing a distinctive and racy profile filled with licorice and lime that come into play with macerated peach, beeswax and orchard blossom, as this rides the bracing structure to a long conclusion. Light and intense, with a persistent floral aftertaste. — A.Z.
Corduroy-like texture threads all the elements together in this complex and interesting white. Hints of cardamom pastry, chamomile tea and beeswax complement the orchard and citrus fruit here, with nice underlying saltiness adding a mineral component. The finish is long and complex. Best after 2028.— A.Z.
This shows lovely purity to the tart wild cherry, raspberry and hibiscus tea notes, with an herbal note stretching across the palate. The tannins are light, and this is silky overall, with a graceful finish. — A.Z.
This sports a subtle macadamia nut note that extends to midpalate, where it is swept away by the mix of orchard fruit and blossom. It is slightly creamy in texture for added charm. — A.Z.
There is a pleasant leesy reduction, as this offers a rich mix of chalky mineral, spice, peach and pear aromas and flavors, with hints of orange. Fresh and juicy, with fine equilibrium and supple texture. It features nice length and grip on the finish. — A.Z.
From the cliffs of the Mosel to Baden’s sun-drenched hills, this isn’t a greatest-hits kind of place. It’s a scratchy, unique mixtape filled with deep cuts and unusual bottlings that will delight experienced and new drinkers alike.Aleks zecevic, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Franken
Franken feels like an elegant secret, tucked away in Germany’s heart. Here, Silvaner isn’t just a grape—it’s a story, pure and unadorned, with the limestone earth speaking through every bottle.
Shell-limestone dominates the central district, while heavier gypsum and keuper soils shape the wines further east, near the Steiger Forest. The rotund bocksbeutel bottle, with its old-world charm, mirrors the wines: classic yet timeless.
Stefan Vetter, Andi Weigand and 2Naturkinder let the wine speak with their minimalist approach. Zenthof-Luckert leads on the classic wine front, especially with Silvaner. And then there’s Rudolf Fürst, producing some of Germany’s most legendary Pinots—wines that’ve been setting the standard for years.
This wine beats to its own drum, but shows harmony and complexity, with melting tannins draping over the palate, supporting notes of macerated apricot, yellow plum and loamy earth notes. Long and idiosyncratic finish.—A.Z.
This shows plenty of character, starting with its ultra light body and perfumed bouquet of rose, violet and cherry blossom. It is super vibrant, with an intensity that calls for some bites, yet, on its own the raspberry fruit will do just fine. —A.Z.
Rheingau is where tradition and precision collide. Here, Riesling wears the crown with quiet grace. The banks of the Rhine river shape the vines, where slate and gravel soils give structure to the wines, and steep slopes capture the sun’s warmth.
Robert Weil and Schloss Johannisberg are well established for the classic style, while Peter Jakob Kühn, the biodynamic pioneer, leads the way for the new guard. His apprentice, Alex Saltaren, offers a fresh take of what the region can be. Eva Fricke’s wines pulse with energy. It’s a conservative region, great for those who prefer the classics.
Graceful white, with great energy fueled by its nicely integrated acidity, delivering notes of saffron and honeysuckle and are persistent, adding to the already well-established white peach and Korean pear. There is a textural grip that adds to the overall experience and makes this a perfect food wine. — A.Z.
Attractive flavors of jellied citrus, guava, ripe apricot and quince mark this exuberant, open-knit version. It shows great energy and cut, which keep it well defined through the lingering aftertaste. — A.Z.
The Nahe is a hidden gem, where vineyards cut through wild, hilly terrain and the river tempers the heat. It’s not as famous as the big names, but that’s the point. Here, Riesling is sharp and mineral, with a sense of place that feels raw.
Classics like Diel, Dönhoff, Emrich-Schönleber and Schäfer-Fröhlich make sharp dry Rieslings. Meanwhile, Piri Naturel and Glow Glow wines embrace a natural style, allowing the land to speak with a wild, unfiltered voice. It’s a region that has a quiet allure that lingers.
Stunning showing of Pinot Noir, this is vivacious, yet deep and complex. Velvety in texture, with ripe tannins and bright acidity creating a vivid structure, to support vibrant fruit flavors. It feels incredibly open and free, yet with enough muscle to hold this momentum for years to come. Drink now through 2032. — A.Z.
This is elegant and very vibrant, with white peach, chamomile tea and notes of lime. It shows light tannic grip midpalate, which tightens it up, before the long, mouthwatering finish presents more floral notes. — A.Z.
Stretching along the sun-drenched hills of the Rhine, the Pfalz is where warmth and precision meet. Riesling thrives here, but it’s the Burgundian varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the odd Weissburgunder (aka Pinot Blanc)—that catch your eye.
The region’s limestone-rich soils give wines a quiet elegance, whether you’re sipping a vibrant Riesling or a focused red. Classics like Rebholz and Christmann set the bar high with biodynamic farming, but it is Odinstal where permaculture and forward-thinking farming really takes off.
The new voices like Seckinger and Lelle Schmitzer-Julier, are making waves. It’s a region where tradition mingles with a daring, restless spirit—an undercurrent that’s just beginning to find its voice.
This is a great example of what else Riesling can do. It is slightly cloudy but shows attractive flintiness, beautiful salinity, with light tannins that are well integrated, and great length, on the nuanced finish. This wine will intrigue you despite the preference of style. — A.Z.
Medium-bodied and graceful, with a salty streak extending from start to finish, underscoring notes of apple, white raspberry and Meyer lemon. It is well balanced and complex, with a chalky grip on the long finish. — A.Z.
Lithe and very dry for the category, featuring accents of Red Delicious apple to the melon and citrus flavors. Presents a vivid structure, with notes of lemongrass and minerally spice on the mouthwatering finish. — A.Z.
Baden lies in Germany’s southern stretch, where the sun lingers. Spätburgunder here can be deep, smoky and serious—but also soft-spoken, with an almost Burgundian grace.
Volcanic soils in the Kaiserstuhl add fire to the fruit, while limestone in the north brings lift and clarity. The classics—Huber and Franz Keller—keep the standard high, but the region’s newer voices are turning heads, too. Enderle & Moll were early disruptors, proving that Baden could be raw and soulful. Watch for Wasenhaus and Maklié—low-intervention, high-character and full of promise. This area boasts German wine with a swagger, and disruptive Pinots.
This Pinot shows lovely depth of fruit, concentrated and filled with black cherry, cassis, violet and spice notes punctuated by vibrant acidity, light tannins and loamy notes. It’s a graceful version, with a bendy structure, showing plenty of character and personality. Best after 2027. — A.Z.
This is still a bit shy on the nose, but it unravels on the palate, showcasing wild cherry, strawberry and mix of floral and spice elements. It’s sappy in texture, with a lingering licorice accent. The finish keeps you asking for more. Best after 2024. — A.Z.
Often overlooked, but never lacking in character, Württemberg is a red wine country, but whites do very well here, too. For a long time it has been Trollinger country—light, cheeky, built for drinking cold under the sun—but that’s just the start. Lemberger (aka Blaufränkisch) finds serious footing here, showing depth and drive, especially in the hands of growers like Lassak, Roterfaden and Schnaitmann. The terrain rolls wild and the culture’s stubbornly independent, a patchwork of co-ops, rebels and quiet masters.
This has a beautiful nose of crushed berry, spices and bay leaf, with a hint of olive tapenade. It is medium-bodied, with slightly grippy tannins that soften up with air. The long finish of bramble and licorice add beautifully to the overall experience. — A.Z.
Carved deep into slate, graywacke and basalt, the Ahr is Germany’s smallest fine wine region—and one of its most defiant.
Pinot Noir rules here: silky, mineral, quietly profound. Before the 2021 floods, this valley was a whispered legend. Now it’s a story of resilience, rebuilt vine by vine. Classic names like Meyer-Näkel, Jean Stodden and Kreuzberg still anchor the region, but the future pulses through the work of Julia Bertram and Benedikt Baltes—now united in both life and cellar. Their wines hum with clarity and soul, a reflection of both place and partnership. The slopes are steep, the labor hard, but what’s in the glass feels effortlessly elegant.
This is slightly darker in profile, with blackberry and black currant, and hints of tobacco and charcoal. It is medium bodied and has a silky texture that glides smoothly across the palate. Notes of rose emerge on the well-defined finish. — A.Z.
