‘Explosively Aromatic,’ the La Crescent Grape Is Full of Surprises

La Crescent is a cold-hardy white hybrid grape released by the University of Minnesota’s grape breeding program in 2002, today grown throughout the Midwest as well as in New York and Vermont. After over 20 years in the commercial market, La Crescent has a clear style and identity: Traditionally used to make off dry or semi-sweet, fruit-forward wines, it is naturally high in acidity and has an intense nose because of high levels of phenolic compounds, such as terpenes, resulting in aromas of white flowers, lemon and tropical fruits. Although La Crescent works well for producing a fruity, sweet wine, typically fermented and briefly aged in stainless steel to retain freshness, producers are experimenting with other styles, including oaked versions, traditional sparklers, pet nats and more.

Ethan Joseph, head winegrower for Shelburne Vineyards in Shelburne, Vermont, describes La Crescent as “explosively aromatic.” The operation has 15 acres of estate vineyards, including two acres of La Crescent planted in 2006. The grape has proved to be vigorous with moderate disease resistance and cold hardy to temperatures as low as -35°F. This helped mitigate the need for commercial sprays, a key reason why many Vermont producers continue to work with hybrids even though the region can now support certain vinifera varieties such as Riesling.

Shelburne Vineyard originally produced an off dry version, as, Joseph notes, “with so much riparia in its genetics, La Crescent can become unbalanced when fermented dry.” However, for the last eight years, Joseph has produced a natural-style orange wine from the varietal. The juice stays in contact with the skins for eight to 12 weeks; it also undergoes spontaneous malolactic conversion, which helps to tame the high acidity. Joseph appreciates the richness the skin contact brings to the wine, noting that La Crescent expresses a more savory profile, including notes of bergamot and dried apricot.

Josie Boyle, owner and winemaker of Mousse Sparkling Wine Co. in Jordan, Minnesota, has produced several styles of La Crescent with fruit sourced from in-state growers. For her 2023 carbonated, off-dry sparkling La Crescent, Boyle opted to harvest the grapes earlier than usual, limiting the ripe tropical notes and creating a more restrained profile. Another offering, a traditional-method sparkler, featured a 50-50 blend of La Crescent and Frontenac Gris, another cold-hardy hybrid variety. The wine was aged in neutral barrels and spent two years on the lees. “The result was a really rich, spicy wine with noticeable yeast influence,” notes Boyle.

Boyle believes La Crescent can make fresh, modern wines that might define this grape’s future, especially if producers continue experimenting with different styles and winemaking techniques. “La Crescent shouldn’t be dismissed … it can surprise you,” she says.

Quick Facts

• Grape: Cold-hardy white grape with naturally high acidity, medium body and intense aromas and flavors
• Cross of: 45% V. vinifera (including the Muscat family), 28% V. riparia, 10% V. rupestris, labrusca and aestivalis
• Wine styles: Dry to semisweet, late harvest, sparkling
• Aromas/flavors: Ripe peach, tropical fruit, floral

This article originally appeared in the May 2025 Film issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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