Domaine de la Romanée-Conti delivers “beauty and abundance” with 2022s

The 2022 vintage from the world’s most valuable wine estate, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has been released – so what can you expect from the great Burgundian producer? That’s a question I am lucky enough to be able to answer having been allowed a few sips of the first international showing of this hallowed domaine’s latest releases, which took place on Wednesday 5 February in London at Corney & Barrow – DRC’s exclusive UK agent. Before I share my thoughts on the wines, the co-directors of the prized Burgundy estate, Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal gave their views on the vintage, which were illuminating in their analysis and honesty. Fenal – who is the daughter of Lalou Bize-Leroy – said that that it was a vintage in which “everything seemed too much: too much sun, too much heat, too much light,” as well as one that seemed to yield an excess of grapes, sugar, and vats, she added. As a result of the high-yielding nature of the harvest, she said the winery contained “too many barrels; it was like a puzzle, with three stacked on top of each other – which is something we’ve never seen before at the domaine”. But, in terms of wine style and quality, she added that “everything that could have been too much turned out just right” – commenting that “we could only marvel at the beauty and abundance of fruit”. That was because, despite an early budburst in 2022, there was no frost-damage to the vines, while “an early and swift flowering by late May” ensured there should be a generous and early crop. Then, following a “scorching summer” with “record-breaking temperatures” and “a drought that lasted from June to mid-August”, there was a series of “stormy showers from 15-18 August”, which, Fenal stressed, “allowed the vines to ripen the fruit perfectly, letting the grapes swell with juice.” Continuing, she said, “It was a stroke of luck: rain at the perfect moment”. Fine weather then followed, allowing the domaine to start the harvest with the red Corton on 30 August, although it would wait until 11 September before beginning picking the Echézeaux. With the berries plentiful, fully-ripe and disease free, Fenal summed up, “Never has a harvest brought so much joy to the hearts and strain to the backs”. She added, “It was perfect fruit juice, deliciously ripe but not heavy, and early on, the wines showed the imprint of terroir.” Summing up, she said, “It is a vintage that is out of the ordinary: an unusual and unique vintage, with structure, balance and clarity; the definition of great wines that are built to last.” Concurring, co-director Bertrand de Villaine, who is the nephew of Aubert de Villaine, added that “the terroir is really coming through – each wine has a special expression – and even with this level of maturity, the wines are fresh and expressive, and I see a long future for all of them.” Continuing he said, “2022 is exceptional,” noting that it provided a stark contrast to the previous vintage: “2021 is one of smallest we have ever had in all the domaine’s history.” Indeed, Corney & Barrow MD Adam Brett-Smith said of the huge differences between the consecutive vintages, “It was almost as though the 2022 was listening to us and compensating for the tiny volumes we tasted last year”, referring to the same en primeur sampling of the 2021s in early 2024. That translated, for example, in a jump in production for a grand cru such as DRC La Tâche from fewer than 7,000 bottles in 2021 to more than 26,700 in 2022. Brett-Smith also described the year as “a joyous, joyous vintage” that benefitted what he termed “good rain” – referring to the summertime storms – which he said “proved critical in establishing the beauty of this vintage”. Following the tasting, wine expert and commentator, as well as long-time collector of DRC, Michael Schuster gave his views on the 2022s. “They do not have the ample fleshiness of 2020, but these [the 2022s] have extraordinary sweetness of flavour, and clear tannins, which may take longer [than the 2020s] to become glossy,” he began. Continuing, he said, “There is a succulence and fleshiness [to the 2022s], but a firmness too, and minerality – you get the impression of the soil – and it is wonderful to have so much of them.” Concluding, he said the wines from this, the latest release from the famous estate, “have density and volume without heaviness.” See below for my tasting notes from the masterclass in London on 5 February 

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet, 2022

Inviting aromatics of ripe strawberry juice, cream and wood shavings abound. In the mouth there’s a wonderful almost baked red berry taste, balanced by spice, grip and freshness, with flavours of plums and cherry stone coming to the fore as the initial sweet red fruit fades. Firm, fully ripe tannins allied to a lovely orange-like acidity complete the wine, with a touch of background toast on the persistent finish.

• Score: 93 / 100
• Price: reserved for restaurant customers
• Production: 228 cases

Corton Grand Cru, 2022

A wonderful scent of ripe berries and vanilla cream hit you first, which leads into a palate of surprising contrast: there’s a marked freshness to this fully-ripe red. Flavour-wise there’s a core of fleshy wild strawberry, followed by a touch of spice and toast, then a ripe stem-like note, and a mouth-cleansing almost crunchy cranberry character. Layered, juicy but refreshing, and with beautifully-dry, fine tannic structure that lends a cleansing sensation to the finish.

• Score: 95 / 100
• Price: £1,305 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 946 cases

Echézeaux Grand Cru, 2022

This is magnificent – enticing in its aromatic richness; bursting with sweet-smelling red berries and toast. The palate is similarly wonderful, with waves of fleshy ripe fruit washing over the tongue, from wild strawberry to cherry, then raspberry, and a hint of firmer redcurrant. Following this is vanilla pod, a touch of white pepper, and then fine, mouth-cleansing tannin. It’s just so open and generous now, with masses of fruit, but no heaviness – this is a wine that skips down the throat all to easily; delicious now.

• Score: 97+ / 100
• Price: £1,605 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 1,966 cases

Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, 2022

A somewhat delicate wine aromatically, with subtle red berry aromatics. The palate is similarly quiet, in need of coaxing, with a core of dark cherry and plums, and less overt red berry sweetness than one might expect of the vintage. As for the finish, it lingers, and refreshes, with a plenty of firm if fine tannins, providing a dry frame to a wine that will clearly deliver more with time.

• Score: 94 / 100
• Price: £2,400 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 1,566 cases

Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, 2022

Just one sniff and this wine demands drinking with its amazing aromatics of cream and summer pudding, toast and chalk board duster. Flavour-wise it’s rich in Morello cherry mixed with juicy raspberry, then mulberry too, complemented by barrel-sourced notes of toast and a touch of pencil shaving. As all these delicious characters subside, a fine mouth-coating tannin comes through, giving a delicious crushed rock-like dryness to the finish. Such a wonderful combination of fleshiness and refreshment. Along with the Echézeaux, a wine that seems so ready for drinking now.

• Score: 98+ / 100
• Price: £3,900 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 1,975 cases

Richebourg Grand Cru, 2022

A relatively delicate nose, but not one without complexity – with notes of ripe dark berry, toast and rock dust. The palate is concentrated in flavours, intense, with raspberry and blackberry then plum, black cherry and black pepper too, complemented by touch of charred bread and cedarwood. There’s amazing fruit density and sweetness here, but nothing over-the-top – indeed the finish is fresh, dry, lingering and fine-grained in feeling. All is in balance, and while tempting to drink now, this is certainly one for cellaring.

• Score: 98 / 100
• Price: £3,840 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 1,211 cases

La Tâche Grand Cru, 2022

An amazing array of scents in this – with not just ripe red berry fruit, but ripe stems, dried herbs, sawdust and rosehip. The palate is then is so deliciously seductive and instantly appealing, with delicious toasty, spicy, fine woody overtones, almost fresh pencil shaving, matched to powerful, warming fleshy red fruit, cherry, raspberry, plums…. but the mouth-feel is never heavy, and while there is plenty of flesh, the finish is firm, with a wonderful, dry sensation, like crushed chalk. But what lingers are the flavours, with red berry and rose petal notes persisting, piercing through the fine-tannin membrane.

• Score: 99 / 100
• Price: £4,410 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 2,227 cases

Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, 2022

So this is the ultimate, most sought-after expression from the domaine, and the priciest wine in the world. One not to spit, nor swallow quickly. But first it must be smelt, and wow, what aromas, which are complex and fully ripe, mixing sweet berry with wet stone, and a subtle charred bread note, like pizza crust. The palate is magnificent: not heavy, but certainly far from weedy. It’s gliding though, as though hovering rather than resting on the tongue, while disseminating its layers of flavours, which range from wild strawberry to black cherry, ripe mulberry to white pepper, rosehip to cooked rhubarb. Supporting such flavour concentration is a wonderfully fine but strong structure, powered by a blood-orange-like acidity, and chalk-fine tannin. There are no hard edges nor is there room for improvement. Perfect.

• Score: 100 / 100
• Price: £4,250 for 1 bottle, in bond UK
• Production: 694 cases

And finally, a white: Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2022

A wonderful mix of scents burst from this, and they are entwined so enticingly, from ripe lemon to grapefruit pith, white peach to matchstick and chalk dust. The palate is even better, with a magnificent combination of depth and power while remaining dry and lively. Dominated by ripe citrus, there’s also grilled pith and crushed chalk, as well as some richer flavours, with white-fleshed peach and some caramel too, balanced by orange zest and wood smoke. What’s amazing is how it manages to be gently oily, but fresh and mouth-cleansing too, and yet without any firm acid feeling. There’s even a lovely hint of fine tannin to add weight and mouth-watering appeal. While youthful with great potential, it really is lovely now – it’s singing, but not in a high-pitched way. Mood-enhancing but calming; I’m swallowing, not spitting.

• Score: 98 / 100
• Price: £2,625 per case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
• Production: 1,757 cases