The chef patron of ‘Theo Randall at The InterContinental’ in London talks to Louis Thomas about his time at The River Cafe – and cooking with wine.
When did you begin to love Italian cuisine?
I fell in love with Italian cuisine at an early age. When I was little, we went to Venice. My first real taste of Italian food was spaghetti alle vongole and grilled sardines; I was hooked.
Why do you think The River Cafe has lasted so long as an institution?
The River Cafe continues to be so successful because of many things. The longevity of having a great team, Ruthie Rogers, who has nurtured the restaurant from day one, Charles Pullen always being present with excellent service standards, and Joseph Trivelli keeping up the great standards in the kitchen to name a few. Without these superstars, The River Cafe would not be where it is today. The investment in people cannot be underestimated. The annual olive oil trips The River Cafe team takes to Tuscany with David Gleave MW from Liberty Wines is also a special thing. Few restaurants put in so much effort to inspire their teams.
What was the draw of opening a restaurant at The InterContinental?
As I was contemplating leaving The River Cafe, my thoughts were: “I must do something big.” The opportunity was introduced to me by the late, great Roy Ackerman and the legendary hotelier Roland Fasel. Once I had seen the site and looked at the refurbishment plans, I knew this was going to be my new home.
What did you want to do differently at The InterContinental?
The River Cafe is a unique place, and trying to replicate it at InterContinental London Park Lane would be a mistake, but I wanted to open a relaxed restaurant with friendly service and seasonal Italian food that had the same ethos as The River Cafe. I would like to think I have found a good balance. We still use all the same suppliers as The River Cafe, and more, to ensure we have the best seasonal produce.
Which Italian region do you think has the most underrated cuisine and why?
There are a few underrated Italian regions as they are not always on the tourist map, but one I think is fantastic and not that well-known for food and wine is Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The food has some Austrian influence and, like most regions, is very seasonal: hearty in the winter and fresh in the summer. The white wines produced in this region are also some of the best in Italy.
What’s a vegetable coming into season that you are particularly excited to cook with?
February is fantastic for greens like cicoria, cavolo nero and root vegetables like Jerusalem artichokes. We tend to cook the cavolo nero and make a purée with new season olive oil, and serve it with fresh pappardelle pasta. Cicoria is delicious simply blanched and dressed with olive oil as part of an antipasto dish. We tend to deep-fry the Jerusalem artichokes in flour and milk as part of a fritto misto, or simply roasted with garlic and thyme.
Can Parmigiano ever go with fish, or is it strictly forbidden?
The problem with Parmigiano Reggiano is that it has a very distinctive flavour, and when served with fish, it can overpower the subtle flavour of the fish or shellfish. I would never serve it with any fish dish.
Do you have a rule when it comes to cooking with wine?
Generally wine in cooking has to be a certain quality. The old saying “only cook with it if you are drinking it” is a good rule. It’s a waste to use complex wines in cooking, but good old simple fruity wine works perfectly well. If you are making a rich red wine dish or a sauce, I find using a little Port also works really well.
If you had to pick three bottles of Italian wine to take with you to a desert island, what would you pick and why?
I would take a bottle of Pieropan La Rocca as I think it is one of my favourite Italian white wines, and the region of Soave is very underrated. A bottle of Gran Bussia Barolo from Aldo Conterno – their wines are wonderful – and I have many very happy memories of tasting them with the great man himself. And finally, a bottle of Capezzana Vin Santo to sip as the sun goes down thinking about this beautiful historical estate.
