Can nightcaps revive Hong Kong nightlife?

On-trade experts are on a mission to help Hong Kong regain its reputation as a city that never sleeps. Rebecca Lo finds out how nightcaps are gaining ground. On any given Friday evening the bar area outside three Michelin-starred 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana is packed with happy hour drinkers. Within chef Umberto Bombana’s fine dining establishment in the heart of Central, general manager Antonello Picchedda flicked through images of sgroppino to show db's Rebecca Lo. He explained that the sgroppino, a classic Italian intersection between food and drink, is traditionally served as a palette cleanser between seafood and meat courses. At Otto e Mezzo, it is presented in a glass and has generated 3.2 million views on Instagram since Bombana introduced his take combining 70% lemon sorbet with Grappa and Prosecco. The restaurant also recommends it to round-off a meal. “Sgroppino can be an alternate to traditional digestifs,” said Picchedda. “It looks like a dessert and tastes predominantly sweet. Our version is light and frothy, and prepared table-side finished with lemon zest. It gives us a chance to engage with our guests and make them feel more comfortable when perhaps trying something new.” Vincenzo Stratoti, restaurant manager at Otto e Mezzo, observed that while international clientele tend to be well schooled in digestifs, locals often prefer ending with a cocktail or another familiar drink. Yet he happily stated that most are open to suggestions. “That’s our job: to suggest and explain what we think would complement what they feel like drinking,” he noted, explaining that whisky and fortified wines like Sherry and Marsala are popular nightcap choices alongside Grappa and Amaro. Enticing guests into an after-dinner drink is helping venues in Hong Kong reinvigorate the city's late night culture — an aspect which has dwindled in the years since the Covid-19 pandemic. “A nightcap may extend their stay 30 minutes or longer, as it’s a drink to be savoured and enjoyed,” Stratoti explained. “It becomes part of and can elevate the whole dining experience in a restaurant environment.” “Digestifs finish a meal nicely,” agreed Martin Ho, sommelier at Whisk in The Mira Hong Kong on the other side of Victoria Harbour. “I’d recommend ending on a sweet note with Sherry or dessert wine to guests after rich or heavier meals. I personally prefer something herbaceous to help with digestion and sleep. An Amaro such as Fernet-Branca is a good choice. But it’s rare for our mostly Chinese guests to order herby digestifs. They are just not part of our culture.” Ho noted the importance of tailoring one's offering depending on the clientele. Indeed, tastes differ completely in adjacent al fresco bar and lounge Vibes. “Hong Kong people separate dining and drinking,” he observed, adding that he was a bartender before joining Whisk. “They go to places like Vibes to chat over drinks after dinner. Whisk guests who order a bottle of wine at dinner may consider a digestif. But if they don’t drink during their meal, most won’t all of a sudden go for a nightcap.” Aeton Tobias, head mixologist at Vibes, noted that the bar tends to start picking up at around 9:30pm on most evenings, around the time when Whisk is winding down. Its primarily local Chinese clientele’s most popular choice is Vibes’ signature cocktail: Negroni Bianco featuring Blind Tiger Gin with Biancosarti and Lillet Blanc, available for HK$118 (£11.08). “Locals may not know much beyond their go-to wine and beer brand," Tobias said, but it's his job to sell them on the nightcap concept. “I help them understand more about our menus,” he noted. Thanks to his efforts, an after-dinner drink is helping to push back bedtime among Hong Kong locals. He said: "Relaxing in this resort-like courtyard in central Tsim Sha Tsui, nightcaps become part of their conversation.”