Bucharest claims its position in European fashion: talent, strategy and knowledge at heart of Eastern Europe

ROUND-UP

   

In just two editions, Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week (MBBFW) has managed to position itself as one of the most interesting events on the emerging international fashion circuit. The Romanian event is building an ambitious platform, driven by key institutional alliances — such as the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) — the backing of top-tier sponsors like Mercedes-Benz, and a firm commitment to the creative talent of Eastern Europe.

This strategic combination does not come out of nowhere. It is a response to Romania's growing prominence as a destination for luxury production — with firms such as Louis Vuitton and Moncler moving part of their operations to the country — and to the interest in consolidating a fashion ecosystem with its own identity, capable of competing and engaging with other regional capitals such as Budapest, or the conceptual Feeric Fashion Week in Transylvania.

“Talent alone is not enough today: strategy and knowledge are fundamental to making your way in this industry,” warned Roxana Voloseniuc — co-founder of the event with businessman Mario Antico — during a conference aimed at young designers that kicked off the event. Following the pandemic, they both identified an urgent need to create a space that would help revive the fashion ecosystem in Romania, after seeing many of its key structures disappear, from magazines to showrooms.

   

Today, that reconstruction is beginning to bear fruit. The second edition was attended by international buyers — from Italy to Japan — influencers and specialist media. FashionUnited travelled to Bucharest to closely monitor the direction of the new fashion landscape in Eastern Europe, who its key players are, and to discover why we should be paying attention to them now.

A regional showcase with global ambition

Overseen by co-founder Roxana Voloseniuc, who is also editor-in-chief of Elle Romania — the country's most influential publication since much of its competition ceased operations during the pandemic — the show schedule brought together more than 20 designers from Romania, Ukraine, Poland, Hungary, Moldova and Italy.

Although most of the presentations were held at the National Museum of Art of Bucharest, some firms — such as Almaz, Nissa, VOL and Manokhi — opted for alternative locations.

National brand Manokhi chose to organise a private event with Chiara Ferragni as host. Specialising in handcrafted leather with a powerful aesthetic that has seduced international celebrities, the brand has positioned itself in the luxury segment with a clear international projection, but maintains its roots in Romania and is considered one of the country's most relevant contemporary brands.

   

Understated aesthetic, powerful messages

In aesthetic terms, this edition opted for refined elegance and confident femininity. Neutral tones such as white, black and beige dominated the catwalks, with nocturnal nods in the form of sparkles, lingerie references and body-hugging silhouettes. Even so, the lack of body diversity on the catwalk — a recurring theme in most presentations — meant that some proposals lost their impact by ignoring body diversity.

   

In this line of neutral tones, Moldovan designer Violetta, behind the Rxquette label, presented a theatrical and delicate collection that oscillated between the masculine and the intimate. From backstage, every stitch of her elongated silhouettes could be seen: classic tailoring reinterpreted through transparencies and handcrafted details — embroidery, lace, veils — that sketched out an austere, almost performative femininity. “Bucharest has a raw but honest energy,” explained the designer, now based in Paris, who chose this city as a launch platform because of her strong emotional connection with the local creative scene.

“For our knitwear pieces, we work with a small factory in Oradea, Transylvania. It is a family workshop specialising in handcrafted garments made from natural fibres.

   

Meanwhile, at the Romanian M.Marquise show, the wide-brimmed hats — which competed for attention in the front row with every head movement — became the real stars on the catwalk, integrated into a proposal that was as simple as it was sophisticated.

   

   

Colour that excites

In contrast to this chromatic restraint, Ami Amalia stole the show. Her collection of colourful and emotive knitwear managed to move the audience thanks to an intimate and well-executed narrative. “They have managed to combine creativity and functionality in a timeless way,” said Risako Genno, a Japanese buyer from the Hankyu department store, who highlighted the firm as one of her favourites.

“The Romanian creative scene is incredibly vibrant and full of potential. There is a clear sense of individuality among the designers and artists, and I find the combination of traditional influences with modern innovation particularly interesting. It's exciting to see how the local scene is evolving and gaining global recognition,” the buyer said of the event.

   

In that same vein of distinctive proposals, Alessandra Sipa opted for provocation and a punk aesthetic: transparencies, lace and layering, and a combative, vibrant attitude, as sharp as her ripped tights.

   

Design with purpose

Beyond mere aesthetics, MBBFW is reinforcing its position as a curatorial platform, backing designers with a message, solid roots and a critical vision. Expectations were high for Ukrainian firms Kseniaschnaider and Litkovska, and both delivered.

   

Kseniaschnaider presented a collection that took denim to new dimensions, both literally and conceptually. With trousers in exaggerated, almost sculptural silhouettes, and jackets that defied traditional construction, the firm reaffirmed its characteristic playful tone.

Litkovska, meanwhile, opted for a sober and deeply conceptual collection, in which cultural references are interwoven with a sophisticated utilitarian aesthetic. Wide silhouettes, structured layering and newspaper prints as a symbol of social and political criticism marked her proposal.

   

“Read about politics, not just about fashion. Everything that happens affects your consumers,” designer Massimiliano Giornetti, representative of Polimoda, reminded the young people during the opening conference we mentioned earlier.

Although the fashion world is a bubble, as soon as we landed in Bucharest we came across a far-right demonstration in response to the annulment of the presidential elections of December 2024.

The populist Călin Georgescu, disqualified for alleged Russian interference and misuse of artificial intelligence, was at the epicentre of a political crisis that is keeping the country in a climate of uncertainty.

New talents in sight

The next edition, scheduled for October, will strengthen its ties with Italy thanks to a new alliance with the prestigious Polimoda institute, which will join as an academic partner to promote student exchanges and mentoring programmes.

In addition, Next Generation was presented, a training programme that will run from April and includes three pillars: the Fashion Talent Award, a competition for emerging designers with an expert jury; the Business Accelerator, focused on strategy and business leadership in fashion; and the Sustainable Design Lab, an experimental space focused on sustainable design.