From Sauvy B to Balanced Reds, Buy These New Zealand Wines Stat Despite its size and remoteness, New Zealand remains one of the world’s great wine epicenters. These are the trends, varietals and bottles that we’re most excited about. By Christina PickardWine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from New York, Australia, New [...]
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May 28, 2025 - 20:35
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Images Courtesy of Share a Splash, Syrdyks, and Peregrine Wines
From Sauvy B to Balanced Reds, Buy These New Zealand Wines Stat
Despite its size and remoteness, New Zealand remains one of the world’s great wine epicenters. These are the trends, varietals and bottles that we’re most excited about.
By Christina Pickard Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from New York, Australia, New Zealand and England
Whenever I mention New Zealand to folks here in the United States, a dreamy look comes over them, followed by an exclamation of how badly that person would like to visit the country, or how they once visited and adored every minute of their time there. They might mention a zippy MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc they’ve recently slurped, or a favorite Central OtagoPinot Noir they keep going back to. Few countries enjoy as universally positive an image abroad as New Zealand’s.
Thankfully Aotearoa (New Zealand, these days, is referred by its indigenous te reo Māori name nearly as often as its Anglicized one) lives up to its reputation as a nation that is stunningly beautiful, environmentally and socially progressive and one of the world’s great wine epicenters. When you consider the country’s size and remoteness, it’s really remarkable.
The Rise of New Zealand Wine
Perched in the middle of the “Roaring Forties” in the South Pacific Ocean, Aotearoa’s modern wine industry started around 50 years ago, and most of its industry’s growth has occurred in the last 25 years. The last decade alone has seen over 17,000 acres planted for a total of 105,000 acres under vine (as of 2024), all on two skinny North and South islands that could fit inside Texas two and a half times.
Its small population means that 90% of New Zealand wine is exported, most notably to the U.S. Consider this: New Zealand makes just 1% of the world’s wines, but after France and Italy, it is the third biggest wine export country to the States. Despite export slumps over the past two years (reflective of both global market downturn and several low-yielding vintages), Americans can’t seem to get enough, particularly of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
Let’s acknowledge that Sauvignon-sized elephant in the room. The vast majority of acreage mentioned above is planted to Sauvy B. It’s 66% of what New Zealand produces, and is made primarily (but certainly not exclusively) in a flamboyantly fresh style that’s recognizable the world over. But Aotearoa is hardly a one-trick pony. In fact, many of the wines that fill my glass at home are made from “other” NZ varieties: hauntingly complex Pinot Noir from Central Otago; lucid, age-worthy Cabernet blends and Syrah from Hawke’s Bay; creamy-yet-bright and mineralChardonnay from Auckland; and crackling, citrusy Riesling from North Canterbury, to name a few.
This style diversity is possible thanks to the broad climactic variability across Aotearoa’s two small islands.
Golden leaves on the vines of a vineyard in Otago, New Zealand / Getty Images
Weather Report
New Zealand’s petite size would seem to equate to climactic homogeneity, and there are similarities between many regions. For one, all except Central Otago have maritime influence. The salty air and cooling sea breezes (or gusty winds, in some instances) create welcome respite from New Zealand’s notoriously powerful UV rays (which create dark-hued, thick-skinned grapes with powerful tannins in reds, and intense flavor concentration in whites). The maritime influence helps grapes to retain fantastic acidity, a through line for virtually every New Zealand wine.
The 2023 Vintage
But regional differences can still be stark. February 2023 demonstrated this to the extreme when Cyclone Gabrielle tore through Aotearoa’s North Island right before harvest. It destroyed many vineyards in Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay, drowning them in river sludge.
But on the South Island, winegrowers enjoyed a calm, sunny harvest season. For Marlborough, 2023 was stellar. In landlocked Central Otago, water was, ironically, scarce. Otago’s 2023 Pinots are sturdy and will be long-lived, while Marlborough’s ‘23s are drinking perfectly now.
Even in the North, many producers were fortunately spared the worst of the damage. The 130-year-old Hawke’s Bay’s winery Te Mata made one of the best iterations of its famed Bordeaux blend, “Coleraine,” I’ve ever tasted (rated 97 points). And renowned North Island Chardonnay producer Kumeu River’s range of single vineyard 2023 wines proved that quality-focused producers can still deliver beauty even in tough years.
The 2024Vintage
2024 is already demonstrating excellence in Marlborough. It’s a bit too early to tell for later-released reds, but ‘24 is looking like a top vintage across the country.
The 2025Vintage
As I write this, producers are wrapping up picking the 2025 vintage. Word on the grapevine is that yields are (finally) up and the fruit looks excellent. Time will tell.
Aotearoa never saw a wave of young natty upstarts flip the script with outside-the-box wines and outrageous antics the way its much larger mate across the Tasman Sea did throughout the late aughts.Christina Pickard, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Trend Report
New Zealand’s winemaking is, generally speaking, on the conservative side (although quality is consistently high). Aotearoa never saw a wave of young natty upstarts flip the script with outside-the-box wines and outrageous antics the way its much larger mate across the Tasman Sea did throughout the late aughts. There’re many nuanced reasons for this—export restrictions, geographic isolation and domination of one style are some—but a few handfuls of colorful lo-fi leaning cats are shaking the trees (Halcyon Days, Amoise and Cambridge Road come to mind), for those natty wine lovers amongst us.
New Sauvy B Styles
While Sauvignon Blanc’s explosive global success the last few decades may not crash and burn the way some have speculated, New Zealand will face increased competition as white wine’s popularity continues to climb. Thankfully, many producers are on the ball, expanding their repertoire of Sauvignon styles to include not just the zingy, fruity steel-fermented style, but ones that race with minerality, or offer food-friendly textural weight via wild yeast ferments, gentle oak treatment and lees stirring, broadening their offerings to appeal to a wider audience of white wine lovers.
Balanced Reds
Pinot Noir is Aotearoa’s signature red. But the variety’s naturally powerful tannins and intense fruit (from aforementioned UV rays) have proven challenging for producers to rein in. More producers lately seem to have nailed the balance, building in layers of herb, spice and floral aromatics, highlighting freshness and silky texture, and turning the volume down on oak.
Lesser-Known Varietals
“Alternative” varieties like Gamay, Chenin Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are also on the rise and are better than ever. My standout wines on two recent trips to New Zealand were from lesser known varieties, namely a 2022 Riesling from Prophet’s Rock, 2024 Gamay and 2012 Grüner Veltliner from Mount Edward and a 2021 “Clos de Ste. Anne” Chenin Blanc from Millton Vineyards. Only a few make it to U.S. shores. If you see them, buy them immediately.
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What I hope to see from New Zealand wine may be at odds from what will actually be. Times are tough in the wine world. New Zealand faces an additional 10% tariffs on its U.S.-bound wines, which, while not as hefty as Europe’s or South Africa’s rates, is nevertheless a blow for a nation as reliant on U.S. exports as Aotearoa.
When times are tough, the cold hard hand of business can stifle creativity, risk and environmental stewardship. There’s consolidation happening; grower contracts terminated; once lovingly tended vines ripping up; wines and juice sold off cheaply, driving down prices for everyone.
Increased Quality and Innovation
And yet, the undercurrent of quality remains—even thrives. This is the part that brings me hope for New Zealand’s future: the multitude of producers (shoutouts to just a few below) who take great pains to farm well and make outstanding wines. They will be the ones to push the industry forward, with existing varieties and also with growing wine style categories like sparkling and crunchy, weeknight “nouveau” Pinots.
The Growth of Grower-Producers
As the global market is squeezed, some of the larger corporations who, for decades have been churning out cheap Sauvy Bs and doing no one—especially the environment—any favors, may shut up shop. In the quest for transparency, more consumers will put their money towards the Aotearoa producers that farm their own grapes and make their own wine, tilting the balance to favor small, family-run operations.
Flock of sheared sheep grazing in autumn vineyard / Getty Images
What to Drink Right Now
Below, find a list of recently reviewed bottles that showcase the many varieties and styles that shine on Aotearoa’s pair of islands.
Marlborough
2025 marks 50 years since the first 50 acres of Sauvignon Blanc were planted in Marlborough. Today, seemingly endless rows of vines stretch from sea to mountains, on the floors of three major valleys and, increasingly, up the hillsides. Of the 74,000 acres of vines, nearly 61,000 acres of them are planted to Sauvignon Blanc. Despite the variety’s dominance, Marlborough also produces more Pinot Noir than anywhere else in New Zealand, on soils ranging from gravelly riverbed to loess and clay (see my Clos Henri rec below).
Peek past the corporate curtains and you’ll find a region pulsing with the energy of thoughtful, talented grower-makers who are pushing the entire nation forward with a diversity of delicious SB styles.Christina Pickard, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
For sure, mountains of mass-produced Sauvy B are made here. But peek past the corporate curtains and you’ll find a region pulsing with the energy of thoughtful, talented grower-makers who are pushing the entire nation forward with a diversity of delicious SB styles (see my Greywacke rec below).
They’re also championing “other” varieties that are happy growing in this sun-soaked, sea-swept region, including Syrah, Malbec, Chardonnay and aromatic whites like Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. Te Whare Ra, Dog Point, Fromm, Hans Herzog, Seresin, Te Pā, Kelly Washington, Loveblock, Nautilus, Mahi and The Wrekin are just some top Marlborough producers to watch for.
A deep garnet color, this single-vineyard Pinot bursts with a beautiful array of aromas. The toasted baking spice, dried violet and milky coffee aromas mingle with supple dark berry fruit. The same supple fruit is at the fore on the satiny palate, tempered by a spine of savory, fine-grained tannins. It’s primary and quite delicious now, especially after a quick decant, but could go the long haul until 2031. — Christina Pickard
From a renowned Marlborough vineyard, this deftly expresses much that’s great about dry Chenin: It’s gently fruity with aromas of apples, melon, even strawberry, with a hint of white spice. The palate is waxy in texture with a big zing of citrusy acidity and a mouthwatering lemony note that lingers on the finish. — C.P.
Winemaker Richelle Tyney and team have struck the perfect balance with this vintage of “Wild” which, hence the name, is wild fermented in old oak barrels. The matchstick and toasted almond aromas are there but instead of dominating, they’re tangled up with beach shell, seaweed and preserved lemon characters. The umami, seaside vibes continue on the palate, where a lovely texture and acidity are seamlessly threaded together. An elegant and complex wine. Editors’ Choice — C.P.
In stark contrast to Marlborough, Central Otago is not a region for planting vast swaths of high-yielding Sauvy B. For one, flat surfaces are a lot harder to come by here. Yields are low. Water is scarce. Snow can fall in winter. Frost can wipe buds off vines at springtime. Night-to-daytime temperatures vary enormously.
The only semi-arid, land-locked wine region in Aotearoa—“Central,” as the locals call it—is its own beast. Tucked into the folds of the Southern Alps outside of Queenstown, this former Gold Rush landscape is all craggy mountains, sparkling lakes and breathtaking beauty. It’s also a major wine geek territory.
Laying claim as the most southerly wine region in the world at 45 degrees south, the six subregions of Central excel first and foremost in crafting beautifully complex, structured, herb-and-flower-laced Pinots. Aromatic white varieties like Riesling and Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris—and traditional method sparkling, too—are also excellent. Central Otago has birthed some of New Zealand’s most sought-after wines from top producers like Felton Road, Rippon, Quartz Reef, Prophet’s Rock, Mount Edward, Valli, Two Paddocks and Coal Pit.
From Pyramid’s Central Otago vineyards, this wine has a savory, charred meat and raw, stony character that’s distinctly different from this producer’s famed North Canterbury Pinots. There’s ground spice, dried flowers and a hint of tapenade. The fruit is there too; it’s just not the star of the show. There’s a lovely lightness to the palate, with highly textural, granular tannins that snake their way into the midpalate and veer a touch bitter on the finish. Drink now–2029. — C.P.
A lemon-lime-grapefruit combo is underpinned by salty, toasted almond and herbal characters. There’s a hint of sweetness here that adds some texture, but it’s nicely balanced by mouth-watering acidity and prickly fizz. — C.P.
I’ve a soft spot for North Canterbury and its Waipara Valley subregion, located between the South Island’s biggest city, Christchurch and Marlborough. It’s a region where wine magic happens, especially in the hands of progressive, quality-driven winemakers.
The warm, sunny days, cool nights, long growing days, protection from the Southern Alps to the west and the Teviotdale Hills in the east—combined with the region’s tough, infertile soils and windy, dry conditions—mean vintage variation and low yields. This results in wines that showcase unique character and transparency of site: Riesling, Gamay, sparklers and, yes, Sauvignon Blanc show crackling acidity, salinity, citrus peel and spice. Black Estate, Pegasus Bay, Greystone and The Boneline are a few standout producers here.
Special mention must go to Canterbury’s Waikari subregion, located further inland and at high elevations. There’s only two producers here—Bell Hill and Pyramid Valley (see below)—farming biodynamically at super low yields on hard limestone and clay soils. The quality of the wines coming from both properties is phenomenal, suggesting enormous untapped potential.
This strikes a lovely balance between richness and brightness, combining smoke, nut and toast characteristics with lemon curd and white peach. Acidity is mouthwatering, buoying the textural weight, fruit and oak influence. This is a smart wine that could age nicely over the next five to eight years. — C.P.
Marlborough may be New Zealand’s best known wine region, but until the early 1970s, nary a grape was grown in Marlborough, or anywhere on the South Island for that matter. It’s Hawke’s Bay—along with other North Island regions—that is the historic center of Aotearoa’s wine industry. Vines have grown here since 1851.
Today, the dry, sunny hook-shaped region known in te reo Māori as Te Matau-a-Maūi (Māui’s fishhook)—which consists of five diverse subregions ranging from coastal to hillside and everything in between (including the famed Gimblett Gravels)—is known for producing the lion’s share of New Zealand’s “big” reds. Think herb-flecked Syrah and earthy Cabernet blends that are structured but always restrained thanks to the always-present acidity.
Creamy, fruit-forward Chardonnays are also Hawke’s Bay’s forte. Premium, longstanding producers like Te Mata, Craggy Range and Trinity Hill—as well as small-but-exciting players like Tony Bish, Askerne, Swift and Decibel—shine brightest.
Intense aromas of dried mint, pencil lead and baking spice sit atop sweeter fruit notes of licorice, violets and blackcurrant on this premium Hawke’s Bay Cab. Powerfully tannins are tightly wound. It’s too early to drink this now—it’s structured for the very long haul and should hold up for decades. Cellar Selection — C.P.
This is as concentrated a bottling as the opacity of the crimson hue suggests. There’s blood plum and black currant aplenty, woven subtly with ground pepper, clove, violet and pencil lead. It’s a silky, tightly packed and currently quite primary bottling with supple, fine tannins and a structure that means it should evolve gracefully until 2040. Cellar Selection — C.P.
At the bottom of the North Island, Wairarapa—and its most famous subregion, Martinborough—embodies New Zealand’s isolated, small town, rugged-pristine vibes. In a gusty valley carved by Ruamahanga River, just beyond a series of Lord of the Rings-esque cliffs (literally—they filmed parts of the movie here) outside Wellington, Wairarapa is a small-but-mighty Pinot-centric region where yields are low and quality is high.
Precise, complex, powerful Pinots from highly respected producers like Ata Rangi, Dry River and Escarpment have put this gravelly, windblown region on the map and continue to take it into the future.
A high-toned combo of strawberry and crushed savory herbs and florals opens. There are mushrooms and mineral elements beneath, like terra-cotta and river stone. The palate is shades of lightness and darkness, from the delicate fruit to the powerful, savory tannins that creep in slowly and cinch the tongue. Drink now–2030. — C.P.
I’ll be honest, this historic region is included here primarily because of one winery, a beacon in Auckland’s ever-encroaching suburbs: Kumeu River. That’s not to say that there isn’t a smattering of other quality producers in the West Auckland subregion—and more than a smattering in the beautiful, touristy Waiheke Island subregion—but sadly, very few of the wines make it to U.S. shores.
Kumeu is an exception to the rule; an outlier not just regionally, but nationally, too. That’s because the Brajkovich family have, since the mid 1980s, been almost singularly focused not on Sauvignon Blanc, but on crafting world-class Chardonnay. Wild yeast, long lees contact, barrel aging—the hallmark Burgundy techniques—are all here. From Kumeu’s village level Chardys on up to single-site bottlings, these are precise, consistent, long-lived wines that are essential to any Chardonnay lover’s cellar.
One of New Zealand’s most renowned single vineyard wines, this vintage of Mate’s doesn’t disappoint. Less overtly reductive than the previous vintage, the flinty, struck match notes are certainly present, but they’re beautifully balanced by bright, fleshy lemon and stone fruit, the toasty, creamy nuances adding flesh to bones. The palate combines mouthwatering acidity with a slippery texture. There’s depth of fruit, drive and length. It’s a delicious drop now but will age exceptionally well for well over a decade. Cellar Selection — C.P.
