Strong princesses, grunge, and new forms: Highlights from Tokyo Fashion Week

In Tokyo, designers are merging tradition with modernity for the AW25 season. The creatives brought together classic silhouettes with sporty elements, creating chic yet urban collections suitable for various everyday situations in the Japanese capital and other metropolises.

Here's an overview of the brands to keep an eye on and the latest trends from Tokyo.

Labels to Watch

Hummel00

Hummel00 is the fusion of the Danish sporting goods manufacturer and modern Japanese streetwear. The brand, which belongs to the Hummel Group, was developed in collaboration with a long-standing partner from Japan, explains a Hummel spokesperson. "While the creative direction is rooted in the local market, the project is led and overseen by our global brand team to ensure alignment with our values and visual identity," states the Danish headquarters.

For AW25, the brand appears to be creating various archetypes from the football stadium. The fan, who combines "their team's" jersey with casual trousers, is seen alongside the coaches in quilted vests and simple shirts, or classically with a blazer and skirt. Of course, the players – both on and off the field – as well as the referees are also part of the picture.

The Hummel DNA is clearly present with logos and lettering. Additionally, several track jackets feature a symbol reminiscent of the Danish national football team's crest, for which Hummel is currently the outfitter.

The brand gives the sporty style an androgynous twist, juxtaposing striking streetwear with a sensual, lightweight aesthetic.

Non Tokyo

The Japanese brand Non Tokyo was founded by Ichige Ayano in 2013 and presented its first collection for SS14. Under the term "Crossover" the designer creates a feeling of unease expressed through contrasts in clothing.

The Tokyo-based brand showcased its AW25 collection, "Chasing a Stakes Dream," at the local science and technology museum. The collection featured a knee-length pleated skirt incorporated into a beige work uniform. Sportswear and colorful outerwear pieces adorned with vibrant prints of horses, stars, and nature were juxtaposed with delicate details like ruffles. A long, straight skirt displayed the phrase "Please mind the Gap" along with a print of a train platform edge.

Non Tokyo creates the perfect Gorpcore mix for the bustling "urban jungle" of a metropolis like Tokyo.

Tamme

Tatsuya Tamada has been designing for his brand Tamme under the motto "Updating the Existing" since 2021. The Japanese designer combines various components such as military uniforms and formal wear.

The AW25 collection, "Nocturnal Forward," showcased strong tailoring with a clear focus on the waist. Pieces like the classic trench coat were deconstructed and reinterpreted as a cropped jacket and skirt. Lumberjack shirts and leather jackets gave the collection an alternative, rock-inspired edge, disrupting the static nature of uniforms and classic pieces. The collection's color palette was primarily black and dark hues, with individual pieces highlighted in vibrant pink or rusty orange.

Keisukeyoshida

Designer Keisuke Yoshida launched his eponymous label in 2025. He explores the "emotional struggles" that arise during puberty and continue to accompany us throughout life.

For his lastest collection, he chose the Rosa Kaikan amusement center as his venue, showcasing his looks amidst colorful claw machines and video game stations. However, the sensory overload of the arcade doesn't distract from the strong silhouettes featuring statement coats and power suits. Alongside simple pieces, traditional patterns and floral ornaments adorned entire looks. The designer's styling incorporated layered pieces of varying lengths, knotting techniques, and plenty of volume. Several sporty jackets lent a youthful, fresh touch to the overall aesthetic.

Winter Flowers

Keisukeyoshida wasn't the only brand that let flowers bloom for Autumn/Winter 2025. Womenswear brands Telma and Pay Des Feés embellished entire looks with floral prints, while guest designer Paul Smith made them the central theme of his entire collection. The floral print, seen in various colors on dresses, shirts, and ties, was based on a photograph taken by the British designer.

Modern Princesses

Another popular theme in Tokyo was the interplay of classic feminine pieces, such as voluminous tulle skirts, paired with sporty tops. This created the image of a fairytale princess catapulted into the present day. She's no longer waiting for her "Prince Charming" to rescue her and is taking matters into her own hands.

Such looks were seen at JennyFax, Pays des Fées, and Basicks. Chika Kisada on the other hand played with a Barbie theme, integrating the doll as a styling element in a model's hair, among other things.

New Forms

Even more volume was on display in the collections by Viviano Sue. The designer, who grew up between the US and China, showcased a silver XXL dress for his brand Viviano, from which only the model's head emerged.

Meanwhile, Rivnobuhiko, Telma, Tanudiredja, Houga, and Chika Kisada demonstrated just how diverse skirts can be. The brands played with different shapes, creating entirely new silhouettes in some cases.

Artistic forms were also seen at brands like Grounds, Rivnobuhiko, and Satoru Sasaki, although they focused more on the upper body. From tiny pieces that barely covered the chest to large-scale works of art, the designers showcased their diverse range of tops.

Modern Grunge

The "Grunge Spirit" à la Kurt Cobain and Neil Young was revived, particularly in Tokyo's menswear collections. Plaid shirts, black and green striped long-sleeved shirts, and dark tie-dye patterns were featured throughout the collections. Details like ties with plain white shirts or wide, subtly checked suit trousers softened the rocker aesthetic, making it streetwear-ready.