MBBFW: 5 Romanian labels to have on the radar

IN PICTURES

   

For the second edition of Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week (MBBFW), held from March 27-30, the schedule brought together more than 20 designers from Romania, Ukraine, Poland, Hungary, Moldavia and Italy.

After reviewing the shows, we now turn our attention to the Romanian scene, a thriving creative ecosystem. Established labels such as Nissa or Ami Amalia, whom we have been following closely since their appearance at the Budapest Central European Fashion Week (BCEFW), demonstrate that Romania not only has a history, but also deserves to be on the radar of the global industry.

Alexandra Sipa

   

Alexandra Sipa, who trained at Central Saint Martins, where she completed both her degree and master's in fashion design, has built a recognisable proposal within sustainable design, combining textile innovation and a narrative consistent with her identity. Her experience at houses such as Oscar de la Renta and Balenciaga allowed her to delve into tailoring, production and conceptual development techniques, laying the foundations for a brand that stands out for its technical solidity and creative direction.

Her value proposition revolves around the use of electronic waste, especially electrical cables, which she transforms into lace using her own technique. This material becomes the common thread of a visual universe that fuses traditional craftsmanship with experimentation, in an aesthetic that connects the delicate with the playful, with references to the Romanian rave scene and intimate fashion. The result is pieces such as bodies, dresses, tops or lace sets with a strong, very colourful visual identity.

   

In the short term, the designer plans to expand her production capacity and is actively looking for commercial partners to scale her proposal without compromising her artisanal approach. Looking ahead to October, she hopes to present her SS26 collection at the next edition of Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week, consolidating her presence on the local scene. In addition, she plans to expand the offer in her online shop with “more complex and creative products”, aligned with the brand's experimental identity.

Almaz

   

Founded in 2014 by designer Andra Olaru, Almaz Clothing is a Bucharest-based brand that combines contemporary design, local production and a business strategy geared towards growth. Most of its collections are made in its own workshop in Romania, while specific categories such as leather and denim are developed in Italy. In addition, it collaborates with local suppliers for the production of knitwear.

Olaru, co-founder and creative director, studied law before moving to Milan to train at the Istituto Marangoni, where she graduated in fashion design among the best in her class. After gaining experience in Italy, she returned to Romania to launch her own label.

   

After presenting its AW25 collection at a private event during the MMBFW, with a theatrical staging that explored faith as a refuge in the context of the current chaos, the brand is already working on its SS26 collection. Its upcoming projects include a series of pop-ups in different cities in Romania and a complete renovation of its showroom, in line with its strategy of strengthening the direct link with the end consumer through face-to-face experiences and personalised events.

M Marquise

   

Founded in 2012 by Andreea Petre-Mărcuță, M.Marquise has established itself as one of the most prominent Romanian labels in ‘quiet luxury’, recognised for its refined savoir-faire and its understanding of femininity.

Its founder took her first steps in the industry in 2008, when she launched her first ready-to-wear label, initially combining it with her career in law. Her transition to design responded to a personal passion for creation, style and the construction of pieces with identity.

   

Based in a historic villa in the centre of Bucharest, which houses both its atelier and flagship showroom, M.Marquise designs and manufactures all its collections in Romania, allowing exhaustive control over the finishes and quality of each garment.

The label is currently working on expanding its distribution network through collaborations with digital platforms such as Farfetch and selected physical points of sale, with a clear focus on expansion in Europe and the Middle East.

Carmen Secareanu

   

Carmen Secăreanu founded her eponymous label in 2002 in Bucharest, positioning herself as one of the most coherent and conceptual voices in contemporary Romanian design. Her work, with a strong authorial imprint, combines a minimalist aesthetic with an experimental approach to the form, construction and function of the garment.

However, with the arrival of the pandemic, Secăreanu paused her commercial activity and moved temporarily to the countryside, in Normandy. This retreat was not a closure, but a stage of creative transition. In the summer of 2023, she actively resumed production and is currently developing the third collection of this new stage. Her return has meant a rethinking of both aesthetic and strategic direction, with a more intimate, direct and artisanal approach to design and sales.

   

True to her approach of local production and conscious design, in this new stage she seeks to preserve the balance between creative independence, sustainability and closeness to the end customer.

Vol

   

VOL (Vestiaire d’un Oiseau Libre) was born in 2020 in Bucharest at the hands of Bianca Taban, a Romanian creative with the vision of “building a brand that celebrated individual freedom through design”.

   

As part of its roadmap for this year, VOL plans to launch a secret capsule in June, in addition to continuing its international expansion strategy through alliances with retailers and digital platforms aligned with its philosophy.

Among the industry professionals who have closely followed Bucharest Fashion Week, Salvatore D'Alessandro, head of the Italian boutique Nida Caserta, highlighted VOL's potential to consolidate internationally.