‘I like to break down barriers’

Newly-opened Bury St Edmunds restaurant Bellota promises a combination of Suffolk produce with European flair. Louis Thomas finds out more from co-owner Linda Keenan. The restaurant scene in Bury St Edmunds has developed significantly in recent years, with eateries in the Suffolk market town gaining rave reviews from broadsheet critics and even Michelin Stars. "Bury began to gain recognition as a food destination around 2012, coinciding with the launch of its first Food and Drink Festival," suggested Keenan. "The town attracts a significant number of tourists thanks to its wide range of historical and cultural attractions, making it a natural for a vibrant hospitality sector to develop following this traffic. Recognising this opportunity the local tourism board, Bury St Edmunds and Beyond, proactively marketed the town as a culinary destination." "As a result," she continued, "standout restaurants such as Lark and Pea Porridge emerged, creating a virtuous circle with demand and innovation reinforcing each other. The success of these establishments confirms that the population is receptive to high-quality cuisine and seeks out innovative dining experiences." Bellota, located on Churchgate Street, is the latest addition to the town, a collaboration between Keenan and husband-and-wife team Ruben Aguilar Bel and Gabriella Fogarasi. Keenan, who has also invested in restaurants ranging from Noble Rot to The Clove Club, revealed that she first came across the couple through their work at another establishment. "I met Ruben and Gabi when they were working at a local restaurant and was totally knocked out by their food which was truly world class. I became a loyal customer and was distraught when the restaurant , through no fault of the kitchen, fell on hard times. After that Ruben and I had discussions about a possible collaboration. We shared similar views regarding food, what the hospitality experience should be like, and management philosophy, so, when the Bury location became available, I felt there were enough stars in alignment to take the leap."

Chef's table

Bellota, which opened in late April, operates as a chef's table concept, with the capacity to seat 20 around the kitchen. "I am a foodie and amateur cook myself so am always interested in what happens in the kitchen. I very much enjoy eating at the open kitchen restaurants in London such as Kitchen Table, Behind and Da Terre, to name just a few," said Keenan. "There are no restaurants with this format in Suffolk, but, with the adventurous population, I thought the concept would have traction." "I like to break down barriers," she continued, "especially the wall between the chefs and the dinners. Preparing a top class meal is quite a performance which I thought guests would enjoy. The chef’s table concept also offers the opportunity for guests and chefs to interact, which is fun and rewarding for both parties. Eating is in fact a social activity, so the relaxed format of a chef’s table really enhances the conviviality of the dining experience." Set menus range from four course Medioda Tasting (£55) up to the eight course Vuelve Tasting (£85). Although there is a certain Spanish inflection to the cooking ('Bellota' means acorn, the foodstuff which gives pata negra its characteristic nutty flavour), Keenan suggested that it is more "modern European, with some Spanish references" and a focus on "fresh, seasonal ingredients". Indeed, as well as fish from the North Sea and even flour ground at the famous Woodbridge Tide Mill on the River Deben, Keenan divulged that some of the ingredients are hyper-local, being sourced from her own garden – "baring crop failures," she hastened to add.

Wine list

Regarding the beverage selection, Keenan shared that Bellota tries to strike "a balance between Spanish and English wines". "We are being unabashedly nationalistic, so no French wines for now," she remarked. Because of Fogarasi's Transylvanian/Hungarian heritage, there are also Central European entries, including a sparkling Clarus (£78 a bottles) and two Tokaji (Babits Tokaji Furmint Late Harvest, £8.50 a glass, and Babits Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, £13.50 a glass). "Ruben is very knowledgeable about Spanish wines so he has included some lesser known appellations such as the Ribeiro, Ribera Sacra, and Canary Islands. The La Rosita and La Palmelita by Pamela Geddes tick both the English and Spanish boxes to provide a great narrative and are among my personal favourites," said Keenan. "The wines are premium but not prohibitive although there are a few high-end wines, La Rioja alta and Clarete Dominio del Aguila for serious oenophiles." Regarding wine and dish pairings, she disclosed that Aguilar Bel "very much fancies" the La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi (£52 a bottle) alongside his "amazing and memorable" secreto pork course, a cut of pork shoulder which Bellota serves alongside roasted salsify, anchovies and guindilla garum.