3 Styles of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc That Cement Its Shapeshifter Status

Chenin Blanc is a true chameleon of a grape. It expresses exceptionally well in dry, sweet or sparkling styles, from age-worthy still bottlings to indulgently sweet dessert pours to vibrant sparkling wines. Tremendous examples can be found throughout France’s Loire Valley, its ancestral home. 

Consider the small appellation of Savennières, located at the edge of the Anjou region, which delivers some of the finest dry Chenins around. Further west, near the Anjou-Saumur city of Angers, the Coteaux du Layon region is famous for deeply concentrated sweet wines. Finally, in Touraine, producers in the twin appellations of Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire make world-class sparklers.

Each of these expressions shows a different side of Chenin Blanc. The grape’s natural acidity and adaptability are key to the Loire’s stylistic diversity, making it a sommelier favorite and a hidden gem for curious drinkers.

So, why doesn’t it have the global clout of other Loire varietals, like Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre? 

Chenin can be finicky, making it tricky to cultivate and vinify. Outside the Loire, the grape’s reputation has suffered as a result of underwhelming, vaguely semisweet bottlings that lack necessary structure. But in the hands of talented Loire Valley producers, Chenin Blanc is something else entirely: layered, expressive and built to last.

Dry

While Chenin Blanc is capable of stunning sweetness and effervescence, today, it’s often the dry versions that earn the deepest praise. These wines balance texture and acidity, evolve beautifully over time and have the ability to express a sense of place.

Savennières, on the north bank of the Loire River, is one of the Loire’s most celebrated sources for dry Chenin. Here, just 200 acres of vines grow on schist-rich plateaus that drop dramatically toward the river. The appellation has become a hub for sustainability-conscious producers like Nicolas Joly, of Coulée de Serrant and Clos du Papillon’s Florent Baumard, who have embraced organic and biodynamic farming in order to draw depth and complexity from their soil and vines.

“The taste of the grape is relatively neutral,” says Baumard. “It can soak up the taste of our terroir, especially with dry wines. That’s why we can have so many different tastes in the remarkable terroir in Savennières and why some of our wines age so well.”

Given the intense influence of terroir, these wines can feel austere in their youth. But after four or five years, they open up, developing layers of honey and beeswax while remaining dry and maintaining their signature acidity. 

“The best expressions of the grape in Savennières reveal a characteristic minerality and delicate savoriness that elevates the taste,” says Reggie Solomon, Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large and Loire Valley wine reviewer.

Though Savennières gets a lot of recognition, Solomon has also reviewed many high-quality dry Chenin Blancs from Vouvray. These dry whites, along with their Savennières counterparts, have extraordinary structure and longevity, with examples from top estates having shelf-lives of over 20 years if stored properly.

Mikey Lopez, sommelier at NoHo Hospitality Group, echoes the influence of age on dry Chenin, especially in designing a food pairing. “Classic dry Chenin Blanc has a bit more texture and can hold its own against richer dishes, especially as it takes on age,” he argues. “I love serving it alongside dishes like creamy potato gratin, charred leeks or monkfish.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Famille Joly 2022 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc (Savennières)

Pineapple, papaya, caramel, orange marmalade and dried apricot open on the nose along with hints of ginger and almond. The biodynamically-farmed wine is rich and fulsome with dried-fruit flavors suggested on the nose along with peach stone fruit and orange zest. Savennières is a passion that Famille Joly captures in a bottle. Editor’s Choice. 97 Points — Reggie Solomon $160 Plum Market

Clau de Nell 2020 Chenin Blanc Chenin Blanc (Val de Loire)

Chenin Blanc was meant to be this good. Gold in color, this wine has an alluring nose of candied golden apple, quince, baked pear, honey and orange marmalade. Creamy in texture, this biodynamic wine is fulsome and curvaceous with a generous midpalate that salons in plump, rich fruit. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — R.S. $130 My Wine Empire

Hauts Baigneux 2022 Clos Des Brancs – Monopole Chenin Blanc (Touraine)

This warm, characterful Chenin Blanc will make you smile. Perfumed aromas of ginger, baked apples, clove and nutmeg baking spice, almond skin and honey open on the nose. The palate revels in freshly baked brioche, cinnamon stick and pear that precedes the long finish. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — R.S. $40 Perrine’s Wine Shop

Château Gaudrelle 2022 Clos Le Vigneau Chenin Blanc (Vouvray)

This is a dry, elegant Vouvray. Mineral driven and fresh on the nose, the wine has flirty aromas of yellow apple, dried lemon peel, bruised Anjou pear and bread dough. Somewhat-tangy fruit kicks off the palate immediately followed by wet stone and a limestone-dusted acidity that provides refreshing-yet-tempered lift on the finish. Pair with French fries, pork medallions and latkes. Editor’s Choice. 93 Points — R.S. $28 Timeless Wines

Domaine Vincent Carême 2022 Le Clos Chenin Blanc (Vouvray)

This wine has a lovely nose of green apple layered with Fuji pear, honeysuckle, white blossom and lemon citrus. The dry white is fresh and bright with lively acidity that persists. Introduce friends to Vouvray with this bottle so they understand what Chenin Blanc can do. Editor’s Choice. 93 Points — R.S. $28 iDealwine

Sweet

Though dry Chenin is increasingly celebrated in today’s wine landscape, sweet styles have traditionally been considered the grape’s high-water mark. Thanks to its natural acidity, Chenin can support decadent sugar levels without losing its balance. That’s partly why it’s such an important grape in the Loire Valley, where growing conditions often promote the development of botrytis (noble rot) and intensify the grape’s sweetness.

In the Coteaux du Layon, and especially its sub-appellations of Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux, the combination of autumn mists and humidity allows botrytis to thrive. “It doesn’t just produce sweet wines but gives a strong sense of place,” says Baumard, who farms vines in Quarts de Chaume. These vineyards consistently produce ageable wines that balance opulence with freshness, rewarding those who decide to cellar them.

Vouvray can also produce extraordinary sweet wines. Although the region generally focuses more commonly on dry or sparkling bottlings, its sweet wines are some of “the best,” says Vincent Carême of Vouvray Domaine Vincent Carême. Though a bit weightier than those from Layon, these bottlings maintain generous fruit and an electric acidity.

Food pairings for sweet Chenin Blanc shine brightest at the end of a meal. “Dessert-style Chenin Blancs are a dream with candied fruit,” says Lopez. “The tarte tatin—a beloved classic in the Loire Valley—makes a pitch-perfect match with the supple golden apple, yellow plum and quince notes that shine in sweet styles of the grape.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Domaine des Baumard 2019 Grand Cru Chenin Blanc (Quarts de Chaume)

Sweet wines are a rarity to be enjoyed amongst the few that understand the pleasure that are these wines. A heart of apricot, quince, orange marmalade and papaya and peach open on the nose that resolves on the palate as a creamy amalgam of delicious goodness. Time has softened the wine and given it a silky luxuriousness that draws you in to it. Pair with blue cheese or hard cheeses, and watch your table swoon. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — R.S. $80 Wine.com

Domaine Philippe Delesvaux 2011 Passerillé Chenin Blanc (Coteaux du Layon Saint Aubin)

Amber in color, this aged, unfiltered, small-production Chenin Blanc has an aromatic nose of caramel, honey, ripe peach and baked apple. Dried apricot, white raisin and orange marmalade join on the palate and continue through to a long finish. This is a mature wine. Drink now–2030. Cellar Selection. 93 Points — R.S. $27 The Winery NYC

Château de Suronde 2018 Grand Cru Chenin Blanc (Quarts de Chaume)

A super-sweet wine from the small Quarts de Chaume appellation, this also a fine line of freshness. It is rich, densely sweet with botrytis flavors, but always with with a brighter edge. Drink now. 93 Points — Roger Voss $47 3K Wine

Bubbly

Sparkling Chenin Blanc is the Loire Valley’s under-appreciated answer to Champagne. While regions like Saumur and the broader Crémant de Loire appellation often blend the grape with Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir, Touraine appellations like Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire rely primarily on Chenin for their sparkling expressions.

Many of Vouvray’s still wine producers also make sparkling wines, typically by harvesting grapes earlier in order to preserve their acidity. Vincent Carême notes that, in addition to harvest schedules, different soils work better for various styles of Vouvray wine. “We make still wines from the chalk and flint soils because the wines bring out the characteristics of the soils, while soils with more clay are better for sparkling wines because we don’t want too much terroir in them.”

Though these wines are most often vinified using the traditional method, like Champagne, they are crisp, clean and unmistakably Loire. “Sparkling Vouvray is a special treat that presents a somewhat richer, orchard-fruit style that many wine drinkers would appreciate if they sought it out,” says Solomon.

Lopez agrees, highlighting the versatility of the wine when paired with food. “It’s excellent with appetizers or seafood,” he says. “Try it with raw oysters, king crab cakes or a mushroom crostini.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Bouvet-Ladubay 2021 Saphir Brut Sparkling (Saumur)

This is a sparkling wine with a serious side. Bready notes fill the nose including freshly-baked brioche, bread dough, yogurt, marmalade and lemon peel. The palate is fresh and effusive with notes of development that impart depth. A great find if you can score a bottle. Best Buy. 92 Points — R.S. $21 Wine365

Langlois 2017 Cadence Extra Brut Sparkling (Crémant de Loire)

Soft, subtle and seamlessly-integrated aromas of brioche, golden apple, white peach and pureed pear open on the nose followed by toasted almond skin and white blossom. Bright and textured on the palate, the aged crémant is enlivened by toasted orange zest and honeysuckle on the lifted finish. Editor’s Choice. 92 Points — R.S. $49 Saratoga Wine

Maison Darragon NV Méthod Tradionnelle Extra Brut Chenin Blanc (Vouvray)

This wine has a perfumed nose of grapefruit, dried-lemon peel and white flower. Golden-apple-slice, and a spritzy midpalate maintain to the finish. Pair with calamari, oysters and spring rolls. 91 Points — R.S. $23 Great Grapes

More White Wine Coverage

• Looking for more info on Chenin Blanc? This six-bottle master class has everything you need to know.
• Riesling and Chenin Blanc go head-to-head in a battle for the title of “Best Aromatic Wine.”
• Learn about seven versatile varietals that make worthy alternatives to Chardonnay—Chenin included.
• Or, if you’re looking for another white grape to explore, these 12 Albariños from around the world are exceptional.

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