Wine vending machines land in Provence, stirring debate among French producers

Roadside wine dispensers are rolling out across Provence, offering motorists the chance to buy chilled bottles with just a credit card and QR code - no sommelier in sight, The Times recently reported

The vending machines, branded Cave O Vin, can hold up to 1,000 bottles, kept at a steady 14°C. Developed by French firm Espace Drive, they aim to provide vineyards with an automated retail solution that operates around the clock.

“They wanted to be able to sell their wines without employing people to work in their shops at all hours,” Stéphany Bonnard, director of Espace Drive told The Times. “I understand that this is different to our tradition of enjoying wine in France. But this is an addition to that, not a threat to it.”

Each machine costs vineyards from €1,300 per month to rent. The smallest models can store 42 bottles - about the size of a small car. Reds are kept at 14°C, while whites, rosés, and champagnes are chilled to between 8°C and 10°C.

So far, 22 machines have been built, and about six have been ordered. Two are expected to go live in Aix-en-Provence by the end of next month, pending local mayoral approval.

Industry pushback

While the machines might offer convenience, not everyone in the wine trade is convinced.

Romain Champetier de Ribes, who sells 100,000 bottles a year from his three wine shops in Provence, criticised the idea: “Unlike these vending machines, my job as a wine seller is to advise my customers, to convey emotions and create souvenirs for them in the shape of wine and spirits, to build a relationship of trust through these experiences of food, wine, family and friends. But using these machines is the same as going to the supermarket: buying wine without advice. It’s a kind of Uberisation of the wine market.”

That sentiment is echoed by Nadia Davico of the award-winning Terre de Mistral estate in Rousset, which produces 350,000 bottles annually. “We wouldn’t install this kind of machine, because what makes our place special, and what is very important for any wine seller, is the human contact and advice we bring around each sale,” she said.

Rosé makes up 80% of production at Terre de Mistral, with whites and reds split equally across the remaining 20%. Bottles range in price from €7.10 to €20.20. “We’re not sure about the real wine lovers, who will probably find this machine too impersonal,” Davico added. 

Changing habits

Still, Bonnard believes the vending machines suit modern lifestyles. “Some people in France finish work very late, but shops selling wine don’t stay open late. So this means the worker can buy some wine for him and his family on the way home.”

To comply with licensing laws and avoid underage sales, customers must order online with proof of age, receiving a QR code to access the machines.

Espace Drive, which previously adapted machines to dispense cheese and charcuterie, has equipped the units with anti-vandalism cameras and real-time stock monitoring. “We think this has applications for a lot of cities and villages, in different locations including car parks - wherever the people are, potentially all over France. And we have ambitions for European expansion,” Bonnard said.

Even Davico concedes the machines could have a place. “We think some French people will really like this concept, because wine has a big space in French people’s way of life. Think about the new generation, who are used to click-and-collect and will enjoy finding an open ‘shop’ at any time. It can be a nice way to bring the wine closer to them,” she said.

She added that machines offering a range of bottles from various estates in city centres or public spaces could drive interest in visiting the wineries themselves. “They don’t have to replace a winery, just bring the wine closer to people.”

Champetier de Ribes admits French drinking habits are evolving. “We cannot help but notice that companies such as Starbucks are establishing themselves in France and generating significant turnover,” he said. “Some people will not like the idea of wine machines, just as they do not like the US and UK takeaway culture — but of course, the main quality of the French people is to complain!”