Veuve Clicquot bets on Pinot Noir for La Grande Dame 2018

In the heart of Paris, set in the Gallery of Mineralogy and Geology, Veuve Clicquot hosted a theatrical dinner to celebrate the launch of La Grande Dame 2018. The immersive evening paid homage to Madame Clicquot and her passion for Pinot Noir, the grape she once famously praised for producing “the finest white wines.”

In a setting drenched in Veuve Clicquot’s signature yellow, from lighting to floral arrangements, guests were treated to a six-course gastronomic experience. The menu, crafted by 18 Michelin-starred chefs, was designed to echo the evolving character of the vintage. Each dish formed part of the Maison’s ‘Garden Gastronomy’ philosophy, showcasing the seasonal and sensory synergy between cuisine and Champagne.

Before the festivities began, Didier Mariotti, cellar master at Veuve Clicquot, raised a glass to Madame Clicquot herself. “She always loved Pinot Noir,” he reminded the room - a poignant nod, given that the 2018 La Grande Dame is composed of 90% Pinot Noir. He continued "She was a force of character, I look to breed this energy into La Grand Dame."

A deep and precise vintage

Describing the 2018 growing season in Champagne, Mariotti noted its “contrasting climatic conditions,” with a rainy winter giving way to a long, warm summer. “This resulted in an exceptional, generous, and high-quality harvest,” he said. “The vintage imparts depth and precision to the wine, revealing a harmonious balance between freshness and aromatic complexity.”

La Grande Dame 2018 emphasises Pinot Noir from both the north and south of the Montagne de Reims. “Pinot Noir is at the very heart of La Grande Dame,” said Mariotti. “The North Mountain Pinot Noir brings verticality, structure, energy, and tension, while the South Mountain Pinot Noir infuses horizontality, giving texture, richness, and silkiness.”

The harvest began earlier than usual, from 23 August to 15 September, due to the summer heat. But despite the warmth, Mariotti explained that the “soils remained cool and well-watered.” This helped to preserve freshness. “The early start allowed us to pick the grapes at optimal ripeness, ensuring the preservation of their acidity and aromatic potential. This rapid maturation, combined with high alcohol levels, resulted in wines with beautiful maturity and a straight, focused profile.”

Comparing vintages and ageing potential

In terms of how this release compares to previous iterations, Mariotti described the 2018 La Grande Dame as one of remarkable poise: “Compared to previous vintages, it offers greater depth and precision, with a harmonious blend of freshness, fruit intensity, and subtle floral notes.”

The vintage’s vibrant acidity and structured complexity suggest it will age gracefully. “Its vibrant acidity and complex structure ensure it will mature beautifully over time,” Mariotti said. “La Grande Dame 2018 is a deep and precise vintage that expresses a new facet of l'Art du Pinot Noir, offering a unique and distinctive style with an ideal balance of harmony and intensity.”

Adapting to climate change

Mariotti has previously spoken about the need for Champagne to evolve in the face of climate change, and Veuve Clicquot is putting those words into action. “We are studying the impact of global warming on our wines, particularly in terms of ripeness, acidity, pH, and phenolic balance,” he said. “We listen to the wines and the vintages, but the most important thing is and will always be tasting. It's only by tasting each wine that we can sense, predict its ageing potential, and thus decide whether it should be used in our Yellow Label, our Grande Dame or enter the collection of reserve wines.”

Since the 2015 vintage, Veuve Clicquot has embraced a suite of sustainable and regenerative viticulture practices aimed at preserving vineyard health and resilience. “We are committed to regenerative viticulture with the overarching goal of creating living, resilient soils that can withstand the challenges of tomorrow’s climate,” said Mariotti. From eco-pasturing and green fertilisers to electric tractors and compost tea, the maison’s estate vineyards are now fully herbicide-free and primed for the future.

A modern legacy rooted in heritage

La Grande Dame 2018 marks the 25th vintage of the cuvée since its debut in 1972, released for the maison’s bicentenary. While the wine remains anchored in Madame Clicquot’s pioneering legacy, the 2018 release also ushers in a refreshed visual identity - with bold, yellow-forward packaging and a hemp-based gift box designed to minimise environmental impact.

The result is a Champagne that expresses both continuity and change. As Mariotti and his team pour their craft into every bottle, the spirit of Madame Clicquot, and her beloved Pinot Noir, continues to resonate with clarity.