Its Ingenue Era Over, Virginia Wine Takes Center Stage The United States’s oldest wine region is notoriously challenging for grapes. But enterprising vintners are sharpening the area’s reputation through climate-sensitive viticulture and cellar experimentation. By Cheron CowanWine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Michigan, Indiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi and the East Coast [...]
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May 19, 2025 - 23:15
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Images Courtesy of King Family Vineyards, Early Mountain, and Vivino
Its Ingenue Era Over, Virginia Wine Takes Center Stage
The United States’s oldest wine region is notoriously challenging for grapes. But enterprising vintners are sharpening the area’s reputation through climate-sensitive viticulture and cellar experimentation.
ByCheron Cowan Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Michigan, Indiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi and the East Coast (excluding New York).
While Virginia’s wine venture dates back to the 1600s (King James required all Jamestown colonists to grow 10 grapevines in hopes of creating a wine industry), the state’s modern, burgeoning wine community really came into its own in the latter part of the 20th century. Today, it’s a dynamic scene where enterprising vintners are experimenting with varietals that can thrive in the region’s tempestuous climate and building a passionate, open-minded community.
Let’s start with the grapes. Experimental cultivation is helping the region’s vintners up the quality of what’s in the glass. While a smattering of hybrid grapes, such as Norton and Vidal, permeate select vineyards, Virginia’s most identifying feature is its commitment to fostering grapes that are conducive to its humid climate. Producers are relying on the descendants of Vitis vinifera, while also leaving room to see how indigenous varietals, like Muscadine, can enhance what they make.
Then there’s the state’s unique brand of winemaking that centers around family-run ventures and European transplants who now call the region home. These wineries are supported by a dedicated fanbase of local consumers.
Virginia’s strong commitment to diversity, equity and inclusion is also noteworthy. In 1940, John June Lewis, Sr. opened Woburn Winery in Clarksville, which is believed to be the first Black-owned winery in the United States. Fast forward to today’s Two Up Wine Down festival that celebrates the numerous BIPOC wine professionals in the region.
The Commonwealth is now home to over 300 wineries—most of which are small operations of about 12 acres—a 500% increase in the last 50 years. There is excitement and fervor emanating in a region once rebuffed by sommeliers and wine connoisseurs alike.
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Weather Report
Virginia has a humid, subtropical growing season. Because of this, the window for ripening grapes is short and hot with premature frosts and mildew. This presents many disease pressures and challenges for grapegrowers and winemakers.
The 2024 season had its extremes, but is proving to be a fine vintage. A summertime drought led to early-harvest grapes—like Viognier, Chardonnay and Merlot—reaching maturity in a vineyard faster than usual. (Typically, harvest can run from late August until early October.) Rain ensued in mid September, for ten days affecting late-ripening grapes, like Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. These varietals showed promise, with careful sorting.
The state’s unique brand of winemaking centers around family-run ventures and European transplants who now call the region home. These wineries are supported by a dedicated fanbase of local consumers.cheron cowan, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
In 2023, quality was very good—far better than 2022, actually—though yields were low. Frost at budbreak and a very hot summer caused some vines to go dormant.
The 2022 is a variable vintage, but good. May frosts, frequent storms in summer and Hurricane Ian during the harvest period affected vineyards. Those that picked before the storm risked grapes that may have been underripe; those that picked after faced disease pressures.
Trend Report
With such extreme growing conditions amplified by climate change, resilience and adaptation are driving Virginia’s wine industry.
Varietal selection is top of mind for producers, most notably grapes with loose clusters and strong skins that can handle wet, humid weather. Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Manseng (which is “bulletproof in the vineyard,” according to Matthieu Finot, winemaker at King Family Vineyards) and even Tannat continue to emerge as unique Virginia markers. Petit Verdot, a secondary grape in Bordeaux, is able to develop much deeper flavor in Virginia’s warm weather while retaining acidity and has become a star varietal in the region.
Because of its ability to thrive in mildew-prone environments, Albariño is finding fans in Virginia. Arterra Wines, Bluemont Vineyard and Afton Mountain Vineyards are making excellent wines from these grapes.
Vidal Blanc, which thrives in even the most challenging climates and has the propensity for higher sugar levels and acidity, includes iterations of still wine, sparkling and sweet wines.
Roussanne, while finicky in regards to the climate in which it develops, appeals to producers because of its delicate aromatics. Eastwood Winery, Arterra Wines and Michael Shaps offer unique renditions.
And Viognier, which the Virginia Marketing Board declared to be Virginia’s unique white identifying grape in 2011, continues to make distinctive wines in the state. The grape’s thick skin and loose clusters help it resist pests and diseases and its versatility means it can produce dry, slightly sweet and sparkling wines.
But more than the grapes themselves, the wine community’s commitment to social diversity and inclusion is emblematic of the region’s unique identity.
Incubator programs—such as the Virginia Wine Collective, which offers low-cost production facilities and Common Wealth Crush, which helps new winemakers get their businesses going—are fostering a collaborative community in the state.
Reds continue to dominate and persevere in Virginia, especially Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Bordeaux blends. These can reach alcohol levels that are moderately high (i.e 14%). Expect to see producers refine their work with these varietals. Early Mountain Vineyards, Jefferson Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, Barboursville and King Family Vineyards all produce noteworthy examples.
Wine tourism is also becoming more ambitious in the state. The Monticello Wine Trail, an association of 40 wineries located within a 25-mile radius of Charlottesville, has become a destination for wine lovers of all experience levels. Many of them are developing interactive experiences, such as Eastwood Winery’s live concerts or King Family Vineyards’s all-ages polo events, to attract more visitors. As the region’s reputation continues to ascend, expect to see more ambitious enotourism initiatives.
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What to Drink Right Now
Below, we’ve shared some of our favorite wines from Virginia’s growing regions. To note: because of the wine distribution system in the United States, it’s often hard for smaller wineries to have their bottles available online. Check your local wine shop for the selections that aren’t shoppable, inquire with the winery to see where you might be able to find local sellers or just head to the tasting room to buy bottles.
While most of Virginia is humid subtropical, these regions lean continental due to their proximity to the Blue Ridge Mountains, which protect them against harsh winters and allow for cooling gaps of air that filter into the region.
Standard vinifera grapes grow in the region, like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. But you will also find Viognier, Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, Norton, Vidal, Tannat, Seyval Blanc and Riesling, to name a few.
The following bottles represent the best of the region.
In appearance, the wine is ruby, with a deep ruby core. The nose reveals red and black fruit. Black raspberry and cherry. The wine evokes a pervasive floralness. Rose petal and jasmine. Sandalwood and clove, also, persists. The palate reveals more. Cherry, clove, cedar and cinnamon are prominent. But pencil lead and chocolate also linger. The wine is cohesive and well made. — Cheron Cowan
In appearance, the wine is straw with flecks of green. The nose expresses tropical fruits of guava and papaya. Florals persist: geranium, lilies and jasmine. There are herbal overtones: chive and chive blossoms. White button mushroom is noted. On the palate, the fruit is brighter. Pink grapefruit prevails. Breyer’s vanilla and almond indicate oak, but well-integrated usage. A menthol finish persists. The wine has a long finish. — C.C.
The appearance of the wine is yellow with a tint of green. The nose reflects chamomile, apricot pith, peach pith, geranium, jasmine and a wet rock minerality. On the palate, chamomile gives way to a muted sage and the wet rock minerality persists in the finish. These elements end the wine, along with a slight nuttiness. There is elegance and finesse here. — C.C.
In appearance, the wine is ruby, with a ruby core. The nose reveals cranberry, raspberry, jasmine, cinnamon, clove, bubblegum and craisin. The palate matches. Cranberry, clove, cinnamon, chocolate, granite and red pepper also prevail. The texture is slightly creamy. The acidity, vibrant. The tannins are moderate plus with grit. — C.C.
The wine’s appearance is ruby, with a deep ruby core. The nose exudes red and black plum, red pepper, paprika, green pepper, clove, tobacco leaf, vanilla and cedar. The palate matches. Red and black plum, chocolate covered green pepper, cinnamon, and clove persist. The finish is lifted by an espresso-like quality. The texture is plush and the tannins, gritty. There is a reverent complexity here. — C.C.
In appearance, the wine is ruby with a deep ruby core. On the nose, the wine has red and black fruit. Blackberry. There is a Jolly Rancher quality. Sweet tobacco. Sandalwood. On the palate, the wine expresses blackberry, black plum, sweet tobacco, cedar, and pencil lead. Great evolution on the palate, violet. Creamy texture, well balanced. — C.C.
Dark garnet in the glass opens up with dark fruits of black cherries, sun-dried tomatoes and dried parsley. The palate brings those plus some hints of celery leaf. Integrated tannins make for a wine that can be drunk now or held for years to come. Editor’s Choice. — Craig Chamberlain
With such extreme growing conditions amplified by climate change, resilience and adaptation are driving Virginia’s wine industry. Cheron Cowan, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Northern Virginia
Northern Virginia, too, veers towards a continental climate. Its soils vary, but you will find a great deal of sandstone and granite. Like Central Virginia and Monticello AVA, the standard vinifera grapes thrive here. Chardonnay dominates. Meritage blends are common and single-variety Bordeaux grapes permeate vineyards, as well.
In appearance, the wine is deep garnet with purple. Black berry, black plum, violet and potpourri persist on the nose. The palate matches and is generous. Blackberry. Plum. Lavender. A savory component prevails on the finish. Sage and tarragon. The texture is creamy. Tannins are elevated, bracing, and gritty. There is a nice evolution on the palate. Drink now or hold. — C.C.
In appearance, the wine is ruby, with a deep ruby core. The nose reveals Breyer’s vanilla, red and black plum, cinnamon, clove, red apple, and pencil lead. The palate matches. Cherry, cocoa powder, Breyer’s vanilla, cinnamon and clove. The texture is creamy. Tannins are elevated and gritty. There is extreme polish here. — C.C.
Madison County is on the eastern edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Sitting in the foothills, the climate is more moderate than the rest of Central Virginia. The predictable weather helps contribute to wines that are more balanced and of higher quality than in the more extreme regions. It also sits at the northern part of the Monticello Wine Trail. Notable producers in Madison County include Early Mountain Vineyards, DuCard Vineyards and Prince Michel Vineyard.
In appearance, the wine is deep yellow with bronze secondaries. On the nose, butterscotch, wet wool, orange, orange marmalade, lentil, and desiccated ginger are prominent. The palate reveals ripe, dried sunflower. Corn, honey, ginger and mead persist. The wine is dry with a vibrant acidity. — C.C.
