Experimentation Thrives Across California’s Central Coast Regenerative farming and innovation to address climate change is driving the most exciting wines from the Golden State. By Matt KettmannWine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from California (Central Coast and Southern California) and France (Languedoc-Roussillon) The Central Coast is a massive appellation, running from the [...]
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Apr 8, 2025 - 20:58
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Experimentation Thrives Across California’s Central Coast
Regenerative farming and innovation to address climate change is driving the most exciting wines from the Golden State.
By Matt Kettmann Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from California (Central Coast and Southern California) and France (Languedoc-Roussillon)
Myriad microclimates, diverse soil types and distinctive landscapes decorate the map, but the dominant, uniting characteristic is the steady supply of cool coastal air flowing off the nearby Pacific Ocean. That gives most of the resulting wines—and certainly the region’s best bottlings—a fresh, acid-washed profile, even when coming from warmer areas.
This following breakdown focuses on the five separate regions responsible for most of the commercially available wine. But this is far from the entire Central Coast story, which also includes the Santa Clara Valley, San Benito County and even East Bay-adjacent communities such as the historic vinelands of Livermore. That means there’s lots to learn, so take this guide as your starting point.
A vineyard in Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo county. / Getty Images
Weather Report
Though a vast region, there’s generally a through-line to each Central Coast vintage, because the Pacific Ocean plays such a moderating role everywhere. In recent years, a reliable heat wave starts right around Labor Day, and winemakers will often pick before or after that depending on the style they’re after.
Going back to the COVID harvest of 2020, that heat wave was quite intense and somewhat damaging. That vintage is awash in very ripe wines, though many who picked before or early in the heat wave retained plenty of freshness and balance.
The 2021 harvest was considered one of the most balanced ever, producing a reliably excellent stock of wines from every region.
The heat wave was powerful again in 2022, making for a vintage in which veteran and innovative winemakers were able to salvage stellar wines. Those who weren’t so experienced produced some wines of lesser quality.
But happy days returned in 2023, when a very moderate season led to what many believe to be the best vintage of the 21st century so far. The 2023 wines are generous yet tightly woven, ready to drink now but able to age as well.
The very cool winter of 2024 led to a poor set of vines across the Central Coast, making for a much smaller vintage than usual. That could prove to be a blessing, given the wine industry’s sagging sales. Wine quality appears solid, at least based on the whites and rosés already hitting the market.
Myriad microclimates, diverse soil types and distinctive landscapes decorate the map, but the dominant, uniting characteristic is the steady supply of cool coastal air flowing off the nearby Pacific Ocean.Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Trend Report
Grape experimentation and sustainable innovation continue to thrive across the Central Coast.
While classic varieties from Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhône continue to achieve accolades, many vintners are exploring other options, from Gamay Noir and Godello to Macabeo and Mencia.
The push for regenerative farming is stronger along the Central Coast than perhaps anywhere, with leaders such as Tablas Creek, Robert Hall and others committing deeply to practices that matter.
Meanwhile, disease pressure continues to worry the industry. Much of this is from nursery stock that came with problems like red blotch (a disease that turns leaves and veins red), but issues are also arising with insect-delivered Pierce’s disease, mealybugs and even phylloxera.
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The Central Coast’s quality-to-cost ratio will continue to over-deliver, with a wealth of solid wines in the $20 to $30 range and a stunning amount of globally competitive bottlings above $40 but below $80.
Expect the current trends of experimentation and eco-innovation to plant deeper roots. And while Pinot Noir gets so much attention today, most winemakers are even more fired up about the coastal region’s Chardonnays. That star will continue to rise.
A pastoral scene in the Califonia wine country in the Central Coast near Pismo Beach and San Luis Obispo. Unusually green hills due to heavy rain. / Getty Images
What to Drink Right Now
Below you’ll find a list of two dozen bottles that demonstrate the range of Central California wine, from the cool-climate Pinot Noirs of the Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills to the experimental varietals of the San Luis Obispo Coast and Rhône-focused wines of Ballard Canyon in the Santa Ynez Valley.
Santa Cruz Mountains
Technically not part of the Central Coast appellation, the Santa Cruz Mountains stretch across the ridgeline of the similarly named mountains, from just south of San Francisco nearly all the way to Monterey County.
Though a sprawling appellation running from the mountaintop to the valleys on the east and the seashore on the west, the Santa Cruz Mountains could easily be broken up into multiple subdistricts. And yet it’s not home to all that many wineries, as the terrain is steep, heavily wooded and rather treacherous.
Due to the diverse geographies here, the wines vary widely, from brisk Pinot Noirs and salty Chardonnays that thrive on the seaside of the mountains to richer bottlings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and more that benefit from hot days in the mountaintop sunshine. But Pinot Noir and Chardonnay love the ridgeline as well, making any hard rules about what works here and where hard to issue.
After many decades of not much growth beyond classic producers like Mount Eden and Ridge, the recent decade is witnessing a rush of newer brands with youthful energy. Much of that can be sampled in tasting rooms located in downtown or the west side of Santa Cruz, with some others scattered amongst various estates and beachy villages.
This stunningly beautiful Syrah will please any palate that appreciates a deftly woven fabric of fruit, spice, herb, flower and texture. A lovely shade in the glass, it has a nose that unleashes pure aromas of raspberry, lavender and rose petal. Wrapped in polished tannins, the palate’s dark red-fruit core is adorned in delicate spice and elegant floral flavors. — Matt Kettmann
There’s an approachable layer of blueberry on the nose of this bottling, but it’s the tense earth and herb elements, from forest duff to asphalt, that are most alluring. The palate is crisp, bright and tightly wound, and should relent a bit with time to showcase stunningly pure fruit. Drink 2025–2040. Cellar Selection — M.K.
This vineyard down in Corralitos delivers especially well in this vintage. Aromas of red plum, tart cherry and earthy sagebrush slide into a smoothly textured palate of strawberry, earthy mint and crushed rock flavors. — M.K.
This legendary winery deserves constant props for being a leader in listing ingredients on wine labels. The wine’s great too, starting with tightly wound aromas of chiseled blocks of fine-grained wood plus Meyer lemon and flinty melon. The palate is stony and focused on a fine sandalwood spice, with lemon peel adding acidic balance. Editor’s Choice.— M.K.
Tart aromas of lemon meet with richer tones of macadamia nut on the nose of this appellation blend. The palate is vibrant, young and fresh with sharp citrus and lemon candy flavors that satisfy those seeking acidity and flavor. — M.K.
One of the most important grape growing counties for widely available wines in the United States, Monterey is a hotbed of high-quality winemaking as well.
Cooled by the deep waters of the nearby Monterey Bay, the Santa Lucia Highlands—which ride the benchlands on the western hills above the Salinas River—have long been considered one of the best places to grow Pinot Noir in California. The Pisoni, Franscioni and Caraccioli families are just a few of the Swiss-Italians that traded dairy and row crops for grape growing in the 1990s.
The adjacent, lower lying appellation of Arroyo Seco is known for aromatic whites, while appellations like the San Antonio Valley and San Bernabe grow heavier reds in hotter reaches to the south. The historic regions of Chalone and Carmel Valley continue to produce highly sought after white and red grapes, while the proposed Carmel Coast appellation is responsible for exciting Pinots and Chardonnays grown within view of the ocean. Samuel Louis Smith, Pelio and Albatross Ridge are labels to look out for.
Intense aromas of dark and fruity, yet smooth and zippy, plums remain tightly wound on the nose of this two-barrel bottling from a recently approved appellation. The palate is incredibly taut right now, pairing white paper and violet with buoyant berry flavors. This could last forever. Drink now–2042. Cellar Selection. — M.K.
The nose on this bottling opens with riper apple, honey and pastry aromas. The tension begins on the sip, where green apple and lime zest roll into a rounded pear flesh flavor. — M.K.
This bottling manages to be both lush and bright at once, starting with aromas of crisp cherry compote, fresh raspberry, mace and elegant French toast spices. A sprightly energy dances across the palate, where juicy dark red fruit flavors are lifted by lavender, carnation and rose petal elements.— M.K.
From a vineyard named after the region’s pionering pair of Garys (Pisoni and Franscioni), this utterly satisfying bottling begins with aromas that blend umami-focused hints of soy, shiitake and smoke with fresh fruit and flower scents. Solidly chalky in texture, the palate delivers Bing cherry and pure blackberry flavors cut by a steady acidity. — M.K.
Lightly earthy aromas meet with elegant hints of honeysuckle, jasmine and peach on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tense with crushed sandstone and seashell textures, as vibrant yuzu and light apple flavors align into a balanced expression. — M.K.
Few wine regions have ever experienced the seemingly overnight success that came to Paso Robles over the past two decades, and fewer still would be able to sustain the momentum that this Central Coast appellation continues to enjoy. But Paso is thriving on all cylinders, from advancing sustainability in vineyards, pushing the boundaries of winemaking in the cellar and fostering a greater culture of restaurants and experiences that continue to draw visitors from the Bay Area (about three hours north), Los Angeles (three hours south) and beyond.
The appellation is broken up into 11 subappellations, though the dividing line tends to be the 101 freeway. The mountainous, oak-studded estates exist along the winding country roads of the west side while the east side tends to be more rolling hills and open spaces. But both regions produce top-shelf wines, and many producers pull fruit from all across Paso.
Pioneering stalwarts like J. Lohr, Tablas Creek, Austin Hope, Peachy Canyon and Castoro are still going strong, producing reliably rich wines from across the appellation. But they’re now sprinkled with dozens of other smaller boutique brands, many of which produce in the urban-esque warehouse setting of Tin City, where white and lighter wines are just as popular as Paso’s big reds. Tasting rooms also surround the main square downtown, as do restaurants, hotels and retail shops.
This top-shelf bottling for this veteran producer always impresses. Dark in the glass, this vintage begins with aromas of cassis and violet on the lush, intensely ripe nose that achieves remarkable harmony. The mouthcoating palate is wrapped in thick tannins that frame the dark-chocolate fudge, chai spice and coffee-cream flavors. Drink now–2037. Cellar Selection. — M.K.
The use of concrete really elevates this blend of 33% Grenache, 32% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 5% Cinsaut, 4% Counoise, 2% Tannat and 2% Carignan. Suave aromas of blackberry, pepper and herb achieve harmony on the nose. The palate is ripe, clean and balanced between the berry, black plum, pepper and dark herb flavors. — M.K.
There’s something special and distinctive about Happy Canyon Sauvignon Blancs, and this bottling presents those elements well. Tropical aromas of lemon-spiked guava jam meet with dark grasses on the nose. The palate is rich and mouth-filling yet very tense, presenting guava peel and grapefruit pith flavors. — M.K.
This is widely appreciated as one of the most exciting white wines each year from the entire Central Coast. Tightly wound aromas of gardenia and stonefruit play against a chiseled frame of granite and steel on the nose. The palate is wrapped in an oyster-shell chalkiness, as flavors of plumeria and nectarine cling tightly through the finish. Editor’s Choice.— M.K.
Created in 2022, the SLO Coast appellation is certainly one of the most thrilling in California. The region encompassed the long-established appellations of Edna Valley and the Arroyo Grande Valley, but also picked up everything on the coastal side of the Santa Lucia range stretching from Nipomo in the south all the way to San Simeon in the north.
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, cool-climate Syrah and sparkling wines are the leaders here, though there’s a great spirit of experimentation in both the vineyards and cellars of this seaside appellation. You may find Gamay Noir, Chenin Blanc,Pink Chardonnay and Trousseau alongside Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño, all enhanced by the foggy, windswept conditions inherent to this area.
If this vibrant, peppery yet crystal clean bottling is any hint, there’s a whole new world of cool-climate Syrah coming. Elderberry, black raspberry and intense black-pepper aromas show on the nose, sans the typical gamy funk. The palate is elegant, crunchy and floral, with dynamic while fun flavors of crisp black fruit and peppery spice. — M.K.
Pét nats like this make a strong case for the style’s quicker process without losing nuance. A yellowish pink in the glass, this bottling offers aromas of cantaloupe, Meyer lemon and earth on the nose. The palate is intriguing with lemongrass, Key lime and grapefruit flavors, with a hint of herb adding depth. Editor’s Choice. — M.K.
There’s a strong case to be made that the SLO Coast is Albariño’s true New World home due to bottlings like this. Aromas of lime and grapefruit veer into wet clay and concrete on the nose. The palate is tight and bright, showing vibrant flavors of white flower, stonefruit and lime. Editor’s Choice. — M.K.
This estate-grown, entry-level bottling is a very wise choice in this vintage, as the wine offers classic aromas of sea salt, lemon peel and citrus pith on the tense nose. The palate is very textural with a pithy grip, framing rounded flavors of nectarine and Meyer lemon. Editor’s Choice. — M.K.
Be on the lookout for more aromatic white blends of this type, as the combination of 50% Grüner Veltliner, 40% Albariño and 10% Sauvignon Blanc is offers exciting and dynamic aromas of yellow apple, citrus blossom and brief flintiness. The palate grabs hold firmly, as green apple and lime zest flavors open up toward honeydew by the finish. Editor’s Choice. — M.K.
Santa Barbara County features one of the most unique geographies on the West Coast of the Americas: a major mountain range that runs east to west rather than north to south. That means that on the western edges of the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria Valleys there is vibrant Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, most notably in the popular Sta. Rita Hills.
Then there is the Rhône-focused region of Ballard Canyon, the highly varied grapes of the Los Olivos District and also Rhônes and more diversity in the recently approved Alisos Canyon subappellation. Furthest east is Happy Canyon, where Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordelaise grapes benefit from both a distant coastal influence and sunnier, hotter summers.
The region is simultaneously historic, with plantings going back to the 1960s and ‘70s, and flashingly new, with many vineyards and wineries pushing the boundaries of regenerative growing and “naturally” inclined winemaking. Among them, Solminer, Grimms Bluff,Donnachadh and Groundstar are standouts. Tastings occur at both estate wineries throughout wine country but also in the urban setting of Santa Barbara itself, where pours are paired with palm trees and fine restaurants.
A light hue in the glass, this fantastically elegant yet complex bottling begins with aromas of wild strawberry, pomegranate, earth herb and mint-laced cherry water on the nose. There’s an intense grip to the palate, ensuring reliable cellar time and framing vibrantly fresh flavors of raspberry, cherry, tree bark, cinnamon and sumac. Drink now-2040. Cellar Selection. — M.K.
Winemaker Matt Brady is masterful at making wines that are magically light in expression yet rich in flavor, and this single-vineyard expression is a perfect example. Aromas of black cherry, star anise, clove and lavender lead from the nose into a palate that weaves black cherry and cranberry flavors with chai spice on a lively frame. Editor’s Choice. — M.K.
This cooler climate site presents a dense, savory wine in this vintage. Aromas of truffle, mushroom, loam and forest floor meet with violet and boysenberry on the nose. The bold palate mixes blackberry with roasted and dried meat flavors that make for a complex experience. — M.K.
This winery continues to reveal how intense yet nuanced Santa Ynez Valley Cab can be when no expense is spared. The nose features the expected blackberry aromas but is set apart by the waves of anise, thyme and peppercorn. The palate is lush and polished in structure, offering rich black fruit flavors awash in mocha, vanilla and cappuccino elements that linger long. — M.K.
This longstanding bottling, sourced from the site of a former airstrip, still hits all the right notes, delivering Roussanne’s richness but in a balanced manner. A vibrant yellow in the glass, the nose offers aromas of a picnic basket packed with smoked chicken and lemon bars. The lightly smoky palate surrounds a citrusy core. Editor’s Choice. — M.K.
