Returning Garnacha to its roots in northeast Spain

Garnacha may be global, but PDOs from Spain are demonstrating that it can work wonders in its historic homeland, as they prepare for UK tasting events. Garnacha belongs to an exclusive club: grapes that are truly international. Whether under its original Spanish name, or the commonly heard French synonym Grenache, it has traveled far and wide. With plantings in the US, China, Italy and more, it has earned its place in the world’s top five red grape varieties by plantings. However, as is so often the case, the story only makes sense when you return to its origins. In its homeland of Spain, it is still a key player in the nation’s wine industry. In particular, the terroirs of Spain’s Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs) make a compelling case for its winemaking potential.

From Spain to the world

Although, as with any grape, its origins are difficult to pin down, the most compelling origin story is that Garnacha comes from Aragón in northeast Spain. In 2002, excavations of Segeda, an ancient Celtiberian settlement near the town of Calatayud, uncovered seeds and leaves of Garnacha dating back to around 153BC. Pre-dating written records anywhere in the world, it demonstrates that Spanish Garnacha has two millennia of history behind it. Moreover, Spain is a hotspot for Garnacha’s genetic diversity. This in itself is testament to its long history: greater diversity develops over many generations of plantings. These different Garnachas are led by red Garnacha, a heat-resistant variety that tends towards high alcohol and soft red fruit flavours. Yet the family also includes white Garnacha, which offers floral, herbaceous and fruity notes, and the rare grey Garnacha, known for its mineral-driven white wines and copper-hued rosés. There are also unusual varieties. Garnacha Tintorera is a useful component in making deeply-coloured reds, as it is one of the few black grapes with the pigment in both its skin and juice. Garnacha Peluda, or hairy Garnacha, has hairs on the underside of its leaves, an adaptation to avoid losing water through transpiration in warm climates. Garnacha’s spread is also a distinctly Spanish story. Its European hotspots around the Mediterranean – notably southern France, Corsica and Sardinia – match the expansion of the Kingdom of Aragón in the 12th to 17th centuries. It seems, as the kingdom grew in influence, it exported its local grapes. These news regions usually shared attributes with its homelands – a warm climate with Mediterranean influence. Even in more recent history, as winemakers around the world learned from European producers and grew their own Garnacha, the echo of the Mediterranean remained. The grape developed in northeast Spain; no wonder that many of world’s Garnacha vineyards echo its climate and conditions.

Leading regions

Sometimes, however, you cannot beat home comforts. After generations often relegated to the status of blending grape, more and more producers are turning to Garnacha for high-quality winemaking. Europe – particularly some of Spain’s foremost PDOs – are leading the way. As it requires hot and dry conditions to ripen successfully, Spanish terroirs are ideal for Garnacha production. Moreover, with strong winds drying the grapes, such as the cierzo and garbindada, they are often perfectly positioned for organic and sustainable viticulture. Spain also has enviable stocks of old vines, which are increasingly recognised as a powerful resource in fine winemaking. Older vines bring lower yields and smaller berries, concentrating flavours and meaning that Garnacha’s thin skins can still give ample tannin and colour. Older vines also have deeper root networks, revealing the site’s nuances in the wine’s minerality. Indeed, several PDOs in Spain produce Garnacha as a specialty. They have a long tradition with the grape, built on generations of expertise, and although it goes into much-admired blends, the regions also excel with single varietal Garnacha. These distinctive terroirs are making their name with wines that could come from nowhere else.

Five signature PDOs

PDO Calatayud may have only been created in 1989 but, as the archaeological evidence shows a much longer history with Garnacha. It is a dramatic and rugged area, with hills and valleys ranging from 650 to 1,100 metres in elevation. The continental climate, high diurnal range, along with slate and limestone soils leads to concentration in its red, white and rosé Garnacha wines, although the reds are particularly known for their full body and concentrated black fruit and mineral flavours. Just to the north, PDO Campo de Borja likewise has a focus on reds, continental climate and a mixture of elevations. These range from 350–700m, with lower elevations bringing power intense aromatics, while the higher sites are known for their subtlety and elegance. The PDO also benefits from many old vines: 2,000 of its 5,000 hectares are 30–50 years old. Nearby PDO Cariñena, one of the oldest Spanish PDOs, is the largest of Spain’s Garnacha growing regions and is growing in reputation. High diurnal range in the summer months lends its red wines characteristic aromas of cherry, flowers and herbs, and many producers are emphasising its fruity charm through carbonic maceration or a lighter oak regimen. It also produces white, rosé and – unusually – sparkling Garnachas. PDO Terra Alta has significant differences. It is closer to the sea, having an inland Mediterranean climate with abundant sunshine, low rainfall and lesss dramatic temperature variation. It is notable for its focus on white Garnacha, accounting for up to 30% of the world’s total production. These wines tend to have citrus, peach and chalky notes. The final notable region for Garnacha is probably the most famous: PDOca Priorat. The small, rugged region spans hills and valleys, with vineyards sat on slopes between 10% to 60% incline. In the challenging environment, yields are low: around 1 kilogram of fruit per plant. That, however, creates Garnacha of power and concentration, while the region’s signature llicorella slate soils retain heat for optimum ripeness.

An opportunity to taste

Members of the UK trade will soon have the chance to explore Garnacha’s potential in its European homelands for themselves. As part of the EU Fab 6 programme, wineries will be visiting Edinburgh on 2 June and Manchester on 3 June. The scheme brings together quality products from across the EU, uniting PDO and PGI wines and deli meats under one banner. The products, although very different in style, are united by the exacting quality, not to mention an undeniable – and delicious – gastronomic synergy. In Manchester and Edinburgh, Garnacha from Spanish PDOs will be available to taste, alongside French wines from Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux. Anyone wishing to discover more about Garnacha in its homeland can register to attend here.