Hate Buttery Chardonnay? Try These and Get Back to Us

While a crisp white is one of the perennial favorites in the wine world, we’re here to make the case for the decadent, rich world of buttery Chardonnay. 

Few topics are as divisive in the wine world as this style. The wine’s creamy quality is the product of malolactic fermentation, a technique involving the introduction of bacteria, which lowers acidity. The resulting wine delivers a softer, velvety mouthfeel and, of course, a distinctively buttery flavor. It’s not for the faint of heart.

Some folks absolutely hate it. In our April 2023 print issue, Marshall Tilden III, the head of the Wine Enthusiast Academy, Wine Enthusiast’s WSET education program, came out swinging against buttery Chard, albeit judiciously. “[Unlike] other, and more simple white varietals, the complexities of Chardonnay stand strong on their own without needing to soften, or transform, the flavor profile,” he said at the time. Although malolactic conversion “can round out the acidity, softening the wine on the palate, I much prefer a Chard with searing acidity that has me craving a second sip.”

Team Buttery Chardonnay

On the other side of the spectrum, however, the style isn’t hurting for fans. 

“In a world that craves unadulterated wines more than ever, denying Chardonnay its natural inclination to undergo malolactic fermentation is an enological faux pas,” argues Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast writer at large and reviewer of wines from California. “Why rely on modern technology to change the way this noble grape has been treated since Burgundian monks got a hold of it a millennium ago?”

Writer-at-Large Tom Capo, who reviews Sonoma County wines, is also a fan of the style. “Sometimes, there’s no substitute for the decadence of a barrel-aged Chardonnay,” he says. “There’s a certain voluptuousness to well-made buttery Chardonnay that just hits different—especially during crab season. The velvety mouthfeel and rounded flavors of this style of Chardonnay accentuate the texture of succulent crab meat.”

Writer-at-Large Michael Alberty, who reviews wines from Washington State, Oregon and Canada, similarly adores buttery Chards, but with a caveat. “I look for Chardonnays that provide a bit of butter without making me feel like I’ve licked the bottom of a Land O’Lakes tub,” he says. “I’m in heaven if I find a Chardonnay that combines butter with elevated acidity.” 

Superlative examples are a match for fare like crab cakes and blackened catfish.

It’s All About Balance

This is all to say: Even those with a preference for buttery styles have their limits. What is important, as with all wines, is a balanced flavor profile. And malolactic fermentation can be part of this. 

“Listen, I love a racy Chardonnay more than most,” Kettmann says. “But the grape’s potential for screamingly high acidity—especially in cool-climate regions like California’s Central Coast—typically requires the smoother mouthfeel and warmer flavors that come from a bit of lactic acid. Like everything in wine, it’s all about finding that balance, and the absolute denial of one critical and natural tool in the winemaking process is the start of a dangerous journey. If you don’t like ML, you may just not like Chardonnay.”

If you’ve gotten this far in the story, we’re assuming you’re Team Buttery Chardonnay. To reward you, we’ve compiled a list of highly-rated versions hailing from Sonoma County to Napa to Oregon and beyond. These bottlings hit the sweet spot between butter bomb and nose-searing acidity.

Kumeu River 2023 Coddington Chardonnay (Kumeu)

A benchmark New Zealand wine that should have a place in every Chardy lover’s collection, this vintage of Coddington is especially gorgeous. A tightrope walk of briny seashell and smoke characters with bright lemon and stone fruit. The palate is poised, elegant, linear, with racy, citrusy acidity that slices through the textural weight. It’s a complete and utterly drinkable wine now. But it’d be a shame not to wait. This will evolve beautifully over the next 10-20 years. 97 points. — Christina Pickard

$70 K&L Wines

Williams Selyem 2022 Olivet Lane Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

Big tropical vibes happening on the nose of this vibrant Chardonnay. Aromas of pineapple, mango and mixed citrus explode from the glass, while the palate brings flavors of apple, spiced pear and slate across a plush midpalate and a long, cinnamon scented finish. 95 points. — Tom R. Capo

$99 Total Wine

Domaine Anderson 2021 Dach Vineyard Chardonnay (Anderson Valley)

This is a series of small Chardonnay productions from Domaine Anderson. Opulent and intense, the nose offers aromas of candied apple, orange blossom honey, and lightly toasted oak. The palate provides mouth-watering satsuma orange, peach preserve, Christmas spice, and a long lingering finish. pair with bacon wrapped monkfish, potato leek gratin. 93 points. — Tonya Pitts $55 Domaine Anderson

Artevino 2022 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Yorkville Highlands)

The core has fresh and lively aromas of green apple, citrus blossom, dried herbs, and vanilla: rich yellow apple and searing acidity wrapped in lush, balanced fruit. 91 points. — T.P. $52 Artevino

Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2022 Gold Ridge Hills Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)

This broad and rich Chard offers aromas of pear, mango, marzipan and apple blossom on the nose. The palate brings a nifty tropical pineapple energy, with flavors of mixed citrus, cream, river rocks and lime pith. Drink this with roasted halibut or scallops. 91 points. — T.R.C.

$32 Beverage Warehouse Beverly Hills

Dutton Estate Winery 2023 Kyndall’s Reserve, Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

Very rich aromas of roasted apple and caramelized pineapple jump from the glass of this full-bodied Chard, while the palate displays flavors of preserved pear, nectarine and toasty barrel spice. The finish feels edgy, with toasty oak providing some serious structure for mid term aging. — T.R.C. $28 Half Moon Bay Wine & Cheese

Left Bend 2019 R-Bar-R Ranch Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

Very golden in the glass, this bottling is rich on the nose with potent hazelnut, brioche and creme brulee aromas. The oxidative style carries through the sip in pleasant ways, offering browned butter, toasted nut, light oak and vanilla flavors. 91 points. — Matt Kettmann $38 Left Bend

McGrail Vineyards and Winery 2023 Charlie Rae Chardonnay Chardonnay (Livermore Valley)

Aromas of sweet Gravenstein apple, orange blossom, sugar snap peas, and dried herbs are lingering on the nose. The flavors on the palate are fresh, peach, nectarine, Yellow plum, cardamom, vanilla cream, and a dry finish. pair with Butternut squash ravioli, cremini mushrooms, brown butter. 91 points. — T.P.

$38 McGrail Vineyards

Wente Vineyards 2023 Riva Ranch Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco)

Minty white flower aromas meet with tart green apple and toasty oak notes on the nose of this bottling. There’s a decent tension to start the sip, which evolves into baked apple and roasted nut flavors. 90 points. — M.K. $18 Wine.com

Naledi 2023 Chardonnay (Coastal Region)

Medium-bodied, this white wine delivers pleasant notes of baking spices that introduce a flavorful palate of honey, apricot and citrus fruit. There are plenty of toasted oak flavors counterbalanced by moderate acidity. It’s an enjoyable Chardonnay to pair with roasted chicken and mashed potatoes. 90 points. — Jesica Vargas

$21 Saratoga Wine

Sonoma-Cutrer 2023 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

Aromas of Golden Delicious apple, vanilla and barrel spice highlight the nose of this Chardonnay, while the palate displays flavors of fresh pineapple, lemon curd and buttery pastry. This is natural fit for crabcakes, halibut or bass with beurre blanc. — T.R.C.

$24 Wine.com

More Chardonnay Coverage

• Why your Chardonnay tastes the way it does.
• How the Golden State does the best Chardonnay.
• A crash course on 5 unusual Chardonnay descriptions.
• Inside the flourishing world of Italian Chardonnay.
• The making of two 100-point Chardonnays.

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