Flavor Bombs in a Bottle: These Are the Top-Rated Gewürztraminers to Drink Now
Decadent, highly aromatic and bursting with tropical fruit notes, Gewurztraminer brings the flavor to the world of white wine. [...] Read More... The post Flavor Bombs in a Bottle: These Are the Top-Rated Gewürztraminers to Drink Now appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.
Gewürztraminer (in German) or Gewurztraminer (English and French), is a pink-skinned white wine grape that has historically excelled in Alsace, France, and the Alto Adige region in Italy. But now, it’s planted globally throughout Europe and the U.S. and thrives in cool-climate regions such as Pfalz in Germany, Washington State’s Yakima Valley and the Finger Lakes in upstate New York, with each area imparting its own unique expression.
An underrated white wine with styles ranging from dry to sweet, Gewurztraminer is one of the most aromatically distinctive varieties often delivering a ripe lychee note. Its full body and age-worthy notes offer bright acidity layered with flavors of tropical fruit, floral and spice.
“One of the hardest to pronounce and easiest to recognize grape varieties on the planet, Gewurz displays explosive aromatics pretty much anywhere it’s planted,” says Christina Pickard, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large and reviewer of wines from New Zealand, Australia and New York. “There’s just no hiding its bombastic nature. It is, however, easy to go too far with this variety. Pick it too late, work it too hard, leave too much sugar in it, and it becomes oily and cloying, smelling of dollar store perfume—and sometimes tasting like it too.”
Because of these qualities, it pairs well with flavorful food, especially dishes with heat. “Drink Gewurtz well-chilled (but not iced cold) with spicy Southeast Asian or Mexican fare, and it’s a knockout,” Pickard says.
Most Gewurztraminers are meant to be drunk young, to preserve fresh aromatic notes, though a few can be aged. With this in mind, our Tasting Department selected some of the standout bottles available for sale right now.
Alsace
Alsace is responsible for the most opulent, fragrant expressions of Gewurztraminer.
“Riesling may rule Alsace, but Gewurztraminer is its specialty—bold, fragrant and unapologetically complex,” says Aleks Zecevic, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large who reviews wines from France, Germany and Austria.
The region may produce the world’s finest bottles, but it isn’t resting on its laurels. Winemakers are continuing to experiment with the style. “Nowhere else does it walk the line between opulence and precision so well,” he adds. “And with more winemakers exploring skin contact, it’s finding new life with texture, spice and a kind of indie rock swagger.”
Domaines Schlumberger 2021 Kessler Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace)
Full bodied, with an open and appealing profile, offering honey, mango and spice flavors, picking up white pepper on the finish. It shows a bit of creaminess but with nice balance, and a touch of bittersweetness reining in the finish. 91 points. — Aleks Zecevic $52 Tannico
Trimbach 2016 Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Gewurztraminer (Alsace)
Aromatic with rose and spice notes, this juicy, full-bodied version offers tangy acidity and flavors of clementine, lime zest, white peach, chrysanthemum and hints of orange-blossom honey. It is all complemented by a fine, smooth texture and nicely balanced finish. 91 points. — A.Z. $70 Marty’s Fine Wine
Germany
In the German region of Pfalz, Gewürztraminer takes on a slight citrus character and balances sweetness and acidity. The varietal is more restrained and balanced in this region compared to other expressions.
Alto Adige
“The most polarizing of all varieties, Gewurztraminer is a misunderstood grape,” says Jeff Porter, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large who reviews wines from Italy. “In Alto Adige, its ancestral home—it’s named after the local village of Tramin—‘Gewurz’ shows its wild side with a flair of sophistication.”
Porter notes that the region’s intense sun and alpine location “gives the grape the ripeness it needs to shine and provides the wine with a zip, which many other places lack.”
Our tasting department selected two of the best bottles from the region that are readily available for sale now. “These show the wine at its best with all the key elements: tropical fruit, intense floral notes and spice,” Porter says. “Combine that all with the classic Alto Adige dish Canederli di Speck, a dumpling with smoked prosciutto and you can see that Gewurztraminer is at home here.”
Elena Walch 2022 Kastelaz Gewurztraminer (Alto Adige)
Cantina Terlano 2022 Tradition Gewürztraminer Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige)
This Gewürztraminer delivers an alluring bouquet of lychee, rose petals, and exotic spices. Its palate delights with a rich combination of tropical fruit and subtle spice, evoking the lush, vibrant landscapes of steep vineyards, warm days and cold nights. The wine’s lingering, aromatic finish is a testament to the captivating allure of Alto Adige’s natural beauty. 93 points. — J.P. $32 Wine.com
Australia and New Zealand
Gewurztraminer excels most in Old World regions because few New World regions are cold enough for the grape to achieve the right acidity and flavor. Still, producers in the latter camp are working with the grape in exciting ways, especially in New Zealand, which has the climate to support the varietal.
Since Pickard rarely comes across Gewurtztraminer in her regions, encountering an exceptional bottle is notable. “I love all three of the wines from my beats recommended here for the fact that they haven’t shied away from Gewurztraminer’s inherent lychee, citrus peel, rose water, floral and spice aromas,” she says. “They’re (mostly) dry, and freshened by fantastic acidity. The Unico Zelo and Sheldrake Point come in at moderate-to-low levels of alcohol which is a major bonus in my book.”
Lawson’s Dry Hills 2018 Gewürztraminer (Marlborough)
This pale gold-hued Gewürz is a strong example of the variety, one that’s waned in popularity in New Zealand but that can be as bombastic and crowd-pleasing as the country’s famed Sauvignon Blanc. It’s ultra-aromatic, with a concentrated perfume of candied ginger, tangerine peel, lychee and rose water. The mouthfeel is viscous but with plenty of freshness and a bit of alcohol heat. Needs full-flavored cuisine like Korean barbecue pork. 91 points. — Christina Pickard $28 Grand Wine Cellar
Unico Zelo 2023 Pollen Gewürztraminer (Clare Valley)
As you’d suspect from this oh-so-aromatic variety, there’s a fireworks display of heady citrus, spice and floral characters right from first sniff. It never feels cloying, though, thanks to a subtle lift of acidity and the fact that it’s been fermented to total dryness, leaving rich textural elements and a spicy finish, but no unwanted sweetness. Clearly demonstrates a good understanding of this unique variety. 94 points. — C.P. $27 Champion Wine Cellars
California
Gewurztraminer is a minor grape in California: just 1,100 acres, or about a quarter of a percent of plantings, grow in the Golden State.
However it’s “an excellent example of a versatile varietal that is often overlooked,” says Tonya Pitts, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large who reviews wines from California. She’s especially fond of Anderson Valley wines. “The cooler climate, with diverse soil components and varying elevations, creates a unique and complex version,” she says.
We’ve selected two bottles from the region, which Pitts enjoys for different reasons. “The Navarro selection has long been a classic traditional crowd-pleaser offering a glimpse into the Old World but with more fruit concentration, layered spice and aromatics,” she says. “For those who desire a leaner, more focused style with layered minerality and acidity, with a dash of fruit, flowers and cooking spice, the Golden Eye is a palate-pleaser for the acid heads.”
Navarro 2023 Estate Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley)
This wine is fresh, lively, with aromas of acacia honey, peach, pear, citrus, and notes of dried coriander on the nose. The flavors on the palate are orange blossom, honeycomb, White nectarine, layered with spice, White grapefruit segments, and a long silky finish. 93 points. — Tonya Pitts $28 Navarro
Goldeneye 2023 Confluence Vineyard, Estate, Randolph Block Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley)
This wine is lush, with aromas of marigolds, Yellow plum, pear, guava, and notes of dried herbs on the nose. The flavors on the palate are White peach, orange zest, lime vanilla cream, allspice, and a dry long silky finish. Pair with Pad Thai. 93 points. — Tonya Pitts $44 Duckthorn
New York
New York only grows about 155 acres of Gewurztraminer, mostly in the Finger Lakes. The region’s varied climate, which can be humid or cool, often results in wines that are drier than European expressions.
Sheldrake Point 2021 Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer (Finger Lakes)
Oregon and Washington
The Pacific Northwest is another New World region that’s producing exciting Gewurztraminers. It’s not as popular in Washington as Riesling, but producers who have stuck with the varietal, like Dowsett Family, which has old vine Gewurztraminers growing, are making outstanding wines with it.
“I don’t get to drink Gewürztraminers made in Oregon and Washington often enough, so I appreciate them when I find them,” says Michael Alberty, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large. “I enjoy that you can find higher acid examples made in cooler Pacific Northwest spots that capture the lychee fruit spiciness and rose petal perfume quality I love. These wines aren’t flabby, oily versions that come across as just another innocuous white wine.”
Dowsett Family 2021 Celilo Vineyard Gewurztraminer (Columbia Gorge (WA))
Old vines (39 years) + skilled hand = great wine. Year-in, year-out, this is one of the best examples of North American Gewürztraminer that I get to taste. The 2021 features aromas and flavors of lychee, tangerines, meadow flowers and a hint of toasted nuts. It is crisp as all get out and as refreshing as a splash of cold water. 91 points. — Michael Alberty $27 Dowsett Family
Hyland 2023 Old Vine Gewurztraminer (McMinnville)
Ovum 2022 Love O’ Love Gewürztraminer (Rogue Valley)
What’s not to love o’love about lime, lavender and rose-scented bathwater aromas? The Gewürztraminer’s lychee fruit and ginger flavors are backed by modest acidity. Made with fruit plucked from 47-year-old vines, the wine was fermented and aged in a combination of cement egg, acacia puncheon and 1000 L Austrian cask. 92 points. — M.A. $28 Wine Chateau
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