What to drink at Blinds London

Blinds London, opening on Hackney Road today, promises natural wines that "feel alive", a by-the-glass selection based on "good vibes" and an intriguing selection of pies.

 

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Asked about the overall philosophy of the wine list at Blinds London, due to open at 279 Hackney Road this Friday (9 May), the restaurant's director Arthur Gomez said that it was "all about wines that feel alive". "We focus on honest farming and low-intervention winemaking, with a strong sense of place," he continued. "Our list is built on respect for tradition, but we also love energy and discovery. We’re not into labels as much as what’s inside the bottle – wines made by people who care about their land and have a story to tell." It was during his prior experience The White Horse pub in Mayfair and at the now-closed Terroirs that Gomez first developed a fondness for low-intervention winemaking: "I saw firsthand how natural wine can break the rules but still feel elegant and approachable. It taught me how to introduce guests to something new without overwhelming them. At Blinds, I’ve taken that blend of precision and fun to create a list that’s serious but spontaneous." While East London certainly has no shortage of wine bars preaching the cause of natural wine, Gomez said that this new openings aims for a "more thoughtful approach" to the genre. "Our list is curated to be tight, deliberate, and always evolving. The by-the-glass options will change often, depending on the mood, weather, and what’s in season. We’re all about real hospitality here. Whether you’re into diving deep into a Sumoll or just want a chilled glass of wine with your pie, we’re here for it. Plus, the atmosphere and design play a big part in Blinds' identity. It’s a place that feels comfortable, inviting, and stimulating. And expect the vibe to be a little more groovy on the weekends," he shared. Regarding the by-the-glass selection, he also revealed that there "no rules, just good vibes" with the intention to "keep things affordable", though certain "special" bottles or magnums will be opened on occasion. "France and Spain are big players on our list," Gomez revealed. "Growing up in the Rhône Alps, I developed a strong love for wines from Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley. I'm also half Spanish, so we had to lean into the Mediterranean – particularly Mallorca and Catalonia, where producers like Cati Ribot and Partida Creus are doing incredible work with wines that feel pure and full of character."

Food and wine picks

The food menu is focused on small plates. "Think things like anchovies with lemon oil, burrata with blood orange, seasonal pickles, and pâté en croûte," explained Gomez. "And, of course, we’ve got a core of hand-crafted pies." Giving his own dish picks, and which wines he would pair with them, Gomez opted for the house-made pickles with the Marto Wines Weiss Blend from Flonheim, Germany: "This wine’s got a great balance of texture and acidity, which makes it perfect for the tangy, vinegary bite of pickled veggies. Plus, the slight tannin grip of the wine pairs really nicely with the crunch." Alongside the aforementioned burrata dish, Gomez suggested a Loire-grown Melon de Bourgogne from Domaine Landron Chartier: "The bright citrus acidity and salinity in this wine complement the blood orange and balance out the creamy burrata. It’s a nice tension between the soft creaminess and the fresh citrus." Although the pies will be at the centre of the menu, they seem like they will be a far cry from the sort you might traditionally associate with East London, usually served alongside jellied eels and parsley-laced liquor. Gomez singled out the Blinds London rabbit, celeriac and red pepper pie, and he suggested that the best wine to be enjoyed alongside would be Les Canons du Jean Le Coup de Plou 2023 from Jura: "A super elegant Pinot from Jura with earthy, herbal notes and red fruit. It pairs beautifully with the rich, gamey flavours of the rabbit and earthy root vegetables in the pie. Plus, it holds up to the richness of the pastry."