Once an Insider Secret, Austrian Wine Is Ready for Its Close Up Austria has one of the most quietly influential wine scenes in the world. Explore it with these standout bottles, from elegant Blaufränkisch to precise pét-nats. By Aleks ZecevicWine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Austria, Germany, France and more If [...]
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Jun 12, 2025 - 19:25
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Images Courtesy of SaratogaWine, Heinrich, and Unified Wines
Once an Insider Secret, Austrian Wine Is Ready for Its Close Up
Austria has one of the most quietly influential wine scenes in the world. Explore it with these standout bottles, from elegant Blaufränkisch to precise pét-nats.
By Aleks Zecevic Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Austria, Germany, France and more
If you blinked, you missed it: Somewhere between the first orange wave and the natural wine backlash, Austria stopped being the underdog. What was once an insider secret has become one of the world’s most quietly influential wine scenes.
Over the past 15 years, Austrian wine has undergone a transformation—one that’s been less of a trend than a tectonic shift. Today, 95% of wineries are family-owned. That matters: Decisions happen in the vineyard, not the boardroom. Risks are personal, not strategic. You taste it in the wines—pure, precise, intentional.
Austrians don’t boast, but they’ve built one of the globe’s most environmentally advanced wine industries. Nearly a quarter of vineyards are certified organic—the highest share among major wine nations. State subsidies help, but most growers would do it anyway, out of conviction and common sense.
Austria is also home to BIO Austria, Europe’s largest organic farming group, with standards that exceed European Union rules. Many go further: 14% of organic vineyards are now biodynamic, accounting for 3% of all vines—and growing. That’s no surprise, given this is where Rudolf Steiner, father of biodynamics, laid the groundwork a century ago.
There’s an affinity for nature here that’s cultural, not cosmetic. You see it in animals roaming cover crops, in compost piles, in cellar doors left open to the wind. They’re doing the hard work—and preserving what matters for the next generation. And it’s paying off.
Austria’s vineyards lie between cool alpine air and warm eastern winds, balancing mountain freshness with the heat from Pannonia (a province of the Roman Empire that encompasses present day western Hungary and parts of eastern Austria). However, like in the rest of the world, climate change has thrown all the old rhythms into disarray. The Wachau used to be considered “cool climate.” Now, August feels like Sicily. Burgenland, home to robust reds, flirts with drought. Styria swings between downpours and ruinous hail.
Here’s a closer look at some recent vintages.
2024
In 2024, frost scythed through Vienna and Lower Austria. Summer came in hot, dry and sharp. Then, floods hit at harvest. Survivors were small and intense—wines with muscle. Burgenland, with its more forgiving conditions, is likely to steal the spotlight.
2023
2023 was a gift. A wet spring gave way to a mild, golden summer, with a long, steady harvest. The wines are precise, salty and alive—nervosity in a glass.
2022
In 2022, hot weather brought drought and stressed vines. Spontaneous fermenters had headaches because of the lack of nutrition in the grapes. The best bottles, however, balance richness with bite. These are wines that are easy to enjoy now.
2021
2021 is the one the old-timers nod about. Cool, classic, built to last—a vintage for the cellar. The kind winemakers speak of in hushed tones: once in a lifetime. Low drama in the vineyard, high reward in the bottle. Across Austria, the results were exceptional.
Austria’s wine identity has long swung between monk-like precision and unruly expression.Aleks Zecevic, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Trend Report
Austria’s wine identity has long swung between monk-like precision and unruly expression. Right now, both styles are flourishing.
Evolving Old Reliables
Grüner Veltliner remains the national grape, but the narrative has evolved. It’s no longer just “the spicy one.” On loess soil in the Wagram, just outside of Vienna, it’s broad and generous. On primary rock in the subregions Wachau, Kamptal or Kremstal, it’s sharp and mineral. In Burgenland, on limestone, it can echo white Burgundy. In careless hands, it’s airline filler. Choose wisely.
Austrian Riesling diverges from its German counterpart. Where Germany leans on acidity and residual sugar, Austria opts for dry, structured balance. Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal still lead, but Leithaberg also has its race horses. Winemakers Leo Sommer and Christian Tschida are crafting flinty, focused wines that widen the scope.
A Rush of Reds
But the most exciting momentum is in red—especially Blaufränkisch. It’s a grape that speaks geology. On limestone, schist or iron-rich clay, it yields wildly different expressions: floral, spicy, mineral, tensile. Burgenland winemakers have long championed it. The rest of the world is finally catching up.
Precise Natural Wines
Then there’s the natural wine wave—less a trend than a full-blown ecosystem. Austria isn’t just following a fad; in many ways, it wrote the playbook. Producers like Gut Oggau, Tschida, Muster, Werlitsch, Tscheppe and Preisinger are already part of the canon. Alongside influential gatherings like Karakterre, these producers inspired a new generation—growers making wines with low sulfur, yes, but with greater precision and a broader, more refined appeal.
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The lines between natural, conventional and classic winemaking are blurring. Traditional estates are easing off interventions, turning to native yeasts and farming more responsibly. Meanwhile, natural producers are refining their craft—cleaner ferments, fewer flaws, greater focus. What was once a divide now feels like a spectrum. Some miss the edges, but it’s progress.
Expect more texture, salinity and detail. Growers are guided less by rules, more by place. Farming is sharper, cellar work quieter.
A Surge of Sparklers
Sparkling wine is having a moment. Sekt, once an afterthought, is now made with intent, joined by increasingly precise pét-nats. Precision shows in the clarity, structure and dryness of these wines, thanks largely to careful natural winemaking and thoughtful disgorging. Christoph Hoch and the Schödl family are setting the bar with structured, dry, traditional-method wines built to last.
New Regions on the Rise
Styria is quietly breaking out. Jura fans will find familiar energy in producers like Wachstum-König, Strohmeier and Elias Muster. With steep slopes, limestone soils and a mercurial climate, the region encourages risk. Sauvignon Blanc still leads, but leaner, more mineral expressions are taking hold. Morillon (Chardonnay), skin-contact Muskateller and even Blaufränkisch are proving the range.
Keep an eye on wines from the Bergland region, which covers much of Austria’s Alpine heartland, once considered inhospitable to viticulture. However, wines from producers like Georgium in Carinthia and Armin Kienesberger in Upper Austria are emerging as highly promising.
Austrian wine is in a thrilling moment. Growers are defining what it means to be unmistakably Austrian—not by imitation, but by instinct. The following wines will prove that.
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What to Drink Right Now
Below you’ll find a list of excellent bottlings from Burgenland, Lower Austria, Styria and Vienna that demonstrate the breadth of the country’s wine scene.
Burgenland
Burgenland cradles some of the country’s boldest reds, complex whites and world-class sweet wines. Eisenberg, with its rugged soils, produces Blaufränkisch wines that are pure elegance. From the loamy depths of Mittelburgenland to the mineral-rich Leitha Range, the region is a playground for Blaufränkisch, but also Burgundian varieties, while Rust and places around the Lake Neusiedl, with their humid microclimate, make some of the finest Botrytis-affected sweet wines on the planet. Pay attention to dry wines from Furmint and Welschriesling here as well.
A distinct style, with an almost fizzy feel, and acting more as an infusion, it is superlight and delicate, showing gamy aromas on the nose, which extend to the palate. Notes of raspberry and red currant highlight the midpalate, supported by the structure created from lively acidity and light tannins. The finish is vibrant. — Aleks Zecevic
This is stunning, with a light body and substantial texture. High yet perfectly pitched notes of talc, dandelion tea, Meyer lemon and quinine lead the way, giving this a lot of energy and providing drinking pleasure. It is incredibly minerally in feel, holding a lot of flavors in reserve, to be revealed with some aging. It is just waiting to stretch out. Editor’s Choice.— A.Z.
This is a very pretty, light and elegant red, delivering strawberry, raspberry and floral notes, with streaks of allspice and loam. It is very tasty without being too much in your face, with flavors evolving sip after sip. It persists on the long aftertaste. — A.Z.
A vertical, precise and focused white, this shows seductive texture and minerality. Its fresh-tasting and zesty, with notes of elderflower, lemon and chive flower. White pepper notes mark the finish. It is intense and high in acidity at the moment, but with great potential and complexity. Give it some time or pair it with food. Best after 2025. — A.Z.
This shows an apple candy flavor upfront, which leads to soft peach, passion fruit and cardamom. It’s very long and enticing, with elegant tannins that melt over the palate, combined with vibrant acidity. It is superjuicy, delivering a lot of pleasure. Delicious to drink on its own, but it would shine brighter with roasted fish. — A.Z.
This is broad and expressive, with savory notes of juniper and wild thyme that segue into cherry and strawberry flavors. It is fluid, but with vivid structure showing intensity with a long aftertaste of sweet ripe fruit and chalky mineral. Soft tannins and silky texture add to the overall drinking pleasure. — A.Z.
Graceful and very refined, this has a mouthwatering cut to the Damson plum, red currant, loamy earth and charcoal, which are underscored by a blaze of bay leaf. Corduroy-like in texture, it features a smooth feel but also grip along the way. It is long and taut through the finish, offering flecks of leather, blood orange and rose tea, which invite you for more. This should age gracefully, as well. Cellar Selection— A.Z.
This shows a tasty reduction at first, followed by the notes of peach, ginger and yellow plum tied to a bony frame. It is beautifully complex, combining intensity with drinking pleasure, with an alluring mineral grip, and a mouthwatering edge that bring immediate enjoyment. It’s superlong and harmonious. Editor’s Choice.— A.Z.
Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) is Austria’s largest wine region, and it spans eight subregions: Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental, Wagram, Weinviertel, Carnuntum and the Thermenregion. It offers a range of climates, from the cool, river-influenced vineyards of the Danube valley to the Pannonian warmth in the southeast. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling dominate, with specialties like Zierfandler and Roter Veltliner in certain pockets. Carnuntum and the Thermenregion focus on red wines, particularly Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. From crisp whites to powerful reds, Niederösterreich reflects its diverse landscapes and climates.
This is very interesting—not at all your classic rosé. It is slightly cloudy and neon pink in color, with great acidity that flows from start to finish, underscoring the rich palate of raspberry, strawberry and hibiscus tea. Blood orange acidity gives a significant lift to the long finish. — A.Z.
This medium-bodied, focused red shows gorgeous aromas of crushed blackberry, with red licorice and toasty spice. Expressive and velvety, it boasts a multilayered palate that flows seamlessly across the palate, all backed by fresh acidity and ripe, well-integrated tannins. Fantastic finish. Cellar Selection.—A.Z.
This shows a lot of grip, but it is balanced with ripeness, sporting plum sauce, fig, bay leaf and cocoa. It’s medium-bodied with firm tannins that need a bit more time to fully integrate. —A.Z.
Multilayered, focused and precise, this Riesling exhibits plenty of fruit and spice flavors, with passion fruit and lavender notes upfront, while cardamom and salty crunch add to the edges. It’s balanced, combining intensity and grace, showing the potential to improve over time. Best after 2026. —A.Z.
This vivid, medium-bodied wine has a silky texture and chalky feel, surrounding ripe lime, white cherry, passion fruit and orchard fruit. It reveals lacy floral accents with the perfectly ripened fruit underscored by powerful acidity, which gives it energy and carries this to a long conclusion. —A.Z.
Aromas of flint and jasmine lead to apple, lemon curd and mineral flavors in this graceful yet complex and expressive dry Riesling. This is intense yet restrained, with a firm mineral undertow and a long, savory finish. It offers impressive length. Best after 2025. —A.Z.
Idiosyncratic and slightly oxidative on the nose, this white shows a grand mix of turmeric, pine and fresh parsley, surrounding the core of papaya, guava and blood orange. Light grip acts as a backbone, while the acidity imparts energy. Very expressive and pungent. —A.Z.
There is a noticeable lactic character that adds richness and depth. The creamy texture complements the crisp acidity, while the wine retains its mineral backbone. A touch more roundness and complexity in the finish, making it more expressive. —A.Z.
Styria, Austria’s natural wine heartland, is all about freshness, elegance and pure terroir expression. Here, the wines may not have the weight of other regions, but no other place captures its origin as vibrantly.
From Schilcher, a piquant rosé, in the west to Sauvignon Blanc and Muskateller in the hills of Sausal and South Styrian Wine Trail, Steiermark’s wines are unforgettable. Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay also thrive here, offering a fine balance of minerality and body. With DAC status granted to its three regions—Vulkanland, Südsteiermark and Weststeiermark—this is a place where world-class wines and innovation collide.
Fresh, lively and vertical in profile, with vibrant acidity and sleek body, this is built like an athlete, not showing a lot of fat, just muscle and bones. It exhibits strawberry, cherry, hibiscus, iron and loamy earth flavors, supported by a vivid structure. It shows fine harmony and a long, fruit- and mineral-tinged finish. This can also take some air, staying stable and focused for hours. It should age gracefully. Cellar Selection— A.Z.
Amber in color and pretty cloudy, but very stable and clean, this is more like an herbal infusion at first, with subtle fruit nuances emerging one after another. It shows well-integrated tannins, which give it support, while the finish persists and lingers with light baking spice notes.— A.Z.
This starts out rather languid, with medium body and a silky texture, showing creamed apple, pear and pineapple notes that mingle at the core, framed by honeysuckle and heather accents. A light echo of sea salt threads the finish, adding spine and extra length as this sails on and on, leaving a lovely trace of fruit and minerality. Cellar Selection.—A.Z.
Vienna’s vineyards aren’t for show—they’re vital to the city. The iconic Wiener Gemischter Satz, a field blend, reflects the land’s history and character. From Bisamberg to Nussberg, the slopes grow Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Blanc, shaped by centuries of tradition. Heurige wine taverns serve the city’s soul, where locals and visitors share glasses of this living heritage. Protected by law from real estate greed, Vienna’s vineyards endure, a testament to the city’s deep, unyielding connection to its land.
Vibrant and sleek, this light red features wild cherry and berry fruit, which mark the juicy core. It ends with a long but delicate finish, echoing loam and spice details. —A.Z.
